37_Roadmaster_C

As said above. Buy a set of R134a adapters and you are back in business. The only other thing you will need is a pressure chart for T134a. Pressure is pressure. Just ignore the fancy color coded gauge sections and read the pressure in psi then use the chart. Also, Joe is 100% correct. The pressure will vary as the system works. Many things effect system pressures and clutch cycling. However, if it is cycling like you describe, you are low on freon! I would wait for a warmer day, say 80+ and then add freon slowly until it keeps running and the gauge is in the green. Another thing you should do is either get a leak detector and sniff for the leak or add some of the leak detector dye and run it for a day or two and then look with a black light for the leak. Remember, an AC system is a SEALED system and does NOT leak if proper, period!!! If it is low, it has a leak and should be repaired. I will be honest and admit that I have topped off several of my systems when they had small leaks. However, those small leaks ALWAYS became bigger leaks and cost more in wasted freon and hot summer days before having time to repair. It is much nicer to repair is the spring when it is cooler than on a 100+ summer day!!! Good Luck!!

I feel sorry for the buyers that are looking for the "old junk" that I had/have. I gave up on fleebay and their idiotic way of doing things. Twenty years ago it was a very viable platform to buy OR sell on with a very large audience. Now, between them and PayPal and their combined fee gouging it is more profitable for me to simply haul it to the dump or scrapper. It is sad, but cost vs cash always goes to lower net cost and that means the dump in most cases. Very sad times.........

@2carb40, If that location is not in an exhaust crossover point then any high temp loktite will most likely work just fine. The high temp products are rated for applications up to 450 F. A normal intake should not get that hot. In any case, even if it did release it would still be very sticky and be unlikely to actually loosen. Other options would be to stake the side with a punch point, use a HIGH temp epoxy or last case, drill and pin the thread edge with a pin or thread the pin hole and use a set screw. I would just use red loktite and install the carb 😀.

While you are measuring, also measure the current at the battery. This way we will know the total current available (at generator) and the current going into or out of the battery. With these numbers we will have a much better picture of what may be happening. Also, with a generator charging system, rpm is a very big part of the picture. Repeat all measurements at various engine rpm. Of the most important are the rpm where the charge current at the generator is the highest and at an estimated average driving rpm. The driving rpm is the hardest to estimate AND the most important, unfortunately. Just take an honest best guess for the driving rpm based on where the most of your driving takes place, in town or on open roads. The reason this is important is that the charge rate is normally set on cars of your vintage by trial and error after a mid range starting place. Driving habits greatly effect charging on old cars!! Keep us posted...

Tristan, This sounds right for a third brush generator. The third brush is set for proper charge current at a average driving rpm. Above or below that rpm the output drops. I am not an expert on this, but there are others on the forum that have much more experience. Hopefully, one of them will jump in and explain better!

The song was written by Gene Barge and first released in April of 1965 by James Phelps. Here is a version by Van Morrison: Love is a Five Letter Word

I am not 100% sure, but I think the crank journal size was the same for all years of production. If so, then they would work back to 36. Others should know for sure and chime in.

I would look closely to the plumbing of the two fuel systems! At the very least I would make sure there is a check valve in BOTH pump discharge lines. It is very possible that the electric pump line is either bypassing fuel from the mechanical pump or causing a problem on the suction side of the mechanical pump. A check valve in the electric discharge line will fix both conditions. One in the mechanical pump discharge is actually overkill as there is almost 100% chance there is one in the pump itself, but for safety it will not hurt!!!

If you strike out a good machinist could make you one from your original. It looks like a simple brass or bronze part. Honestly the hardest part would be bending the 90 and making it look good at the bend.

That is cheating!! Oh well, I never said I played fair 😇.

I had the cam factory ground for the 37 Buick 320 by Egge. They did a great job. https://egge.com/info/camshaft-regrinding/

All the Ebay and PayPal issues can be avoided by never doing business on/with either one for more cost than you can afford to loose. Neither one has any real customer service so do not expect any real help with a dispute! Both have changed several times over the years and every change has been for the worse.

With the way you describe the failure and the fact that there is no fluid loss, it points to the master cylinder having a failure. I am not familiar with your specific brake system so I can not offer any specific places to look. I would remove and disassemble the master cylinder and carefully make note of exactly how it was assembled. Then I would closely inspect the cylinder bore and the rubber cups for any damage. Assuming all looks good, then I would do my best to find a factory exploded view of the cylinder assembly and compare how it was assembled. That is all I have. I remember a post somewhere in the forums where a master cylinder failure was traced to some internal part installed backwards. I hope this gives you a direction to investigate. I am VERY glad that you or anyone else were not hurt and the garage and car only had minor damage. Be safe!!

Steve, Start with Joes suggestions about checking for power on the wires to the ignition switch. The fact that you do not get any dash response, idiot lights and/or gauge bumps, while the lights work clearly points to a power problem in the switch circuit. There are very few things that can cause this and Joes troubleshooting procedure is right on.

Bill, Carbking was ,I think, actually being serious with humor. His second post actually tells the story. He said that even if glued together the fuel would still wick up the vent and wet things and stink. The old shellac is still available if you look hard enough, but it will not work as well as you think. Shellac is softened/dissolved by alcohol and that is now 10% of our fuel. I think we just have to grumble and live with it. JMHO......

Thanks for the education @joe_padavano. I have never had to dig into that area of my 1980 and newer GM products. My 97 GMC still has a clutch safety so I just ... well that assume thing 😂. @STEVE POLLARD, I am going to step back, but not out! Joe has much more knowledge about your vintage and model of car than I do. I will chime in if I see somewhere I may help. Good Luck and keep us posted!!!!

Ok, with no dash indication you can forget the safety switches. The wiring is still a possibility. The ignition switch is a high point, but now a fuse seems like the first thing to check. It seems strange that a fuse would blow after proper storage, but who knows. With the hood and interior lights working there is power to the fuse block, so main wiring is clear. Check fuses and let us know...

We need a bit more info. When you say "nothing", exactly what do you mean? You say you have under hood and interior lights, so not absolutely nothing. I assume you mean nothing when you turn the key. Is there anything on the dash when you turn the key on? Idiot lights, gauge movement etc.... Assuming just no starter action, the most likely areas are rodent damage to wiring, ignition switch (key) and if automatic transmission, the neutral safety switch, if manual transmission possibly a clutch safety switch. Let us know...

One thing Bloo forgot to mention... Do not file or sand the points to clean!!! Only use a solvent and a clean thick paper to drag between the points. The points on a mechanical regulator are very special alloys and if it is filed off the life expectancy is VERY short. Remember as the points "buzz" there is a small amount of arcing, which is normal, and these special metals keep things working for a long time...remove the metal, remove the long time.....

@wowo, I expect that modern pistons are different and clearances need to be adjusted as needed. If nothing else, the alloy used in the piston is different and therefore the expansion ratio will be different. With that in mind, you are exactly correct. I do not know if modern pistons are cam ground or not, but the clearance issue is still the same. If the cylinder bore was to tight for the modern piston then the problem you had is expected. Every major aftermarket manufacturer has specific information about fitment of their parts. If the information is not supplied with the parts it is available with a phone call, email or on the website. My guy dealt directly with Egge for the pistons, rod modifications and I believe cam grind so any information came from them directly. If the parts come from a place like Bobs I would them to either supply the information, get the information for you or point you to their supplier so you could talk with them about the issues. I do not know what my rebuilder did but he has old time knowledge and his work is 100% guaranteed no questions asked. I hope some of this helps. Keep us posted as we like to hear the outcome!!

There are some real specific "gotya" points in these engines. The pistons are one of the most important. On the 320 at least the factory pistons were "cam ground". This means that they are not round, but slightly oval. This is done so that with the expansion of heating they will become round when the engine gets to operating temperature. If the rebuilder is not VERY familiar with this it is common for the bore to be to tight and piston drag/seizing can occur. The rod bearings were poured babbitt and if they were modified for shell insert type bearings the dimensions would be specific to that modification. Buick upgraded to shell insert bearings in mid 1947 so it may be that those specifications were used for the modification of the rods. Your rebuilder will need to investigate to get it right. Just for information, my complete rebuild on the 320 cost us just a bit over $8000 and included cam and crank grinding, rod modification, new 1938 pistons, valves, guides and complete head rebuild. It also included paint pf the proper color and many small detail items I am forgetting. With that in mind a $10000 rebuild is not out of line for a regular shop. My guy is a retired pro and still has all his equipment and does specialty work in his free time so the price is a bit lower than a pro shop. However, the pro shop should be able to do a quality job and not have a failure in 7000 miles.

@wowo, I do not have the information you want and I am not familiar with the 248. My car has the 320 and is therefore different. The 1937 320 as stock has insert crank main bearings and poured babbitt rod bearings. I took a quick look and found some interesting info that may help you. Check www.egge.com and look at their offerings for your car and engine. They list a rod bearing and if you look at the details they also list an OD spec for the bearing. I do not know if this is stock or if it is what they do if they modify rods for insert bearings. I had them modify my stock rods for inserts and they did a fantastic job and the clearances were spot on when assembled. Good luck!! Also, what specificly failed in your motor? Did it seize pistons or bearings?

@29hupp, @joe_padavano has the best answer above. The switch he lists and the diagram shown fill every need for your application. The switch has the current capability to power your pump directly without a relay. With the third terminal, it allows for automatic operation with start bypass to allow pump run before the engine builds oil pressure. I would go with that option! Good Luck.

I bought a oil pressure switch just like you are looking for from my local Napa store. The Napa part number is: BK 7011575 It is rated for 4 psi to close the switch. The switch had two terminals. These switches are made by VDO and are good quality. They have the same switch with different pressure settings under different part numbers. As far as I know there is no way to set or adjust the pressure setting. The switch is a little on the higher price side at about $32 but it works and is available. I do not know the amp rating, but I think it would be higher than 3.5 amps. You could also add a relay for the current if in question. These switches are common in cars and trucks to shut off the fuel pump if the engine is not running. A safety feature to kill the fuel if the engine stops in an accident and the ignition is still on. My 76 Toyota pickup had one.

That pricing sounds hi to me also. I have found that modern shops tend to quote very high on things they are not familiar with and most shops could not spell Dynaflow much less know about one. Look for other shops and other quotes!