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  1. hmmm, but aftermarket, modern pistons from Bobs Automobilia etc. should be different I'd expect,. Are you saying they are still prone to go from oval (cold) to round (hot)?? From doing some online research I gathered that one big troublemaker has often been to apply factory piston clearance from the 30s to fitting modern aftermarket pistons...... I agree, a full engine overhaul costs money but its obviously very frustrating to see a 10K overhaul leading to an engine being blown up after only 7.000 miles....
  2. several problems: - piston clearance too tide, probably installed with factory clearance from 1937 manual but using modern pistons (needing more clearance) - piston pins on several pistons sitting extremely tide and were not moving freely - probably creating overheating in the area - rear main was sealed off with a rope seal when manual clearly states that on 1937 and 38 series 40 engines this seal should not be fitted. Probably slowed down the free movement of my crankshaft which cant be good for a motor Insane that previous owner paid close to 10.000 bucks for thi
  3. That's what I thought as well but the shop said that knowing those specs and bearings diameter is not precised enough when working with 2-shell-bearings and they would need to know the factory bearing housing measurements as well in order to work out correct new line bore and building bottom engine without shims later.
  4. Hi all, I'm in need to rebuild my 1937 Special engine after the previous rebuild done by a machine shop in Nevada was poorly performed a few years ago with several mistakes made - making the engine seize after not even 7.000 miles on the clock. Back then the engine was converted to using insert type bearings for both mains and rod bearings. My shop here in Spain where I have the engine now is asking me for the original measurements of the main bearing and rod bearing housings (diameter with caps bolted on). From different sources I could identify the standard specs for: - crankshaft j
  5. Thanks Bob, yes - I detected that as well last week and ordered one already (it's not the second gear though but the clutch gear side, part number 553439 )
  6. thanks, yes that seems to be the correct parts number for the front (clutch side) drum: 553439. What I read from that old parts book is that until 1937 front drum was different to rear drum. From 1938 onwards both drums were the same but with new parts numbers = probably not fitting anymore into the older transmissions
  7. its the drum that goes onto the clutch gear which I still need
  8. thanks Ben, I will contact DME. I already sourced the rear drum for second gear now with part number 1297852. What is the correct part number for the front drum which I still need? As far as I can see Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Buick and Pontic all used the same transmission somewhere between 1932 and 1938.
  9. Hi, I have to overhaul the gear box on my 37 Special. Both synchro drums are showing wear and are not doing their job properly anymore which doesn't come as a surprise to me, given the noise it made when shifting gears. Any suggestions what to do about? Anyone has some spare NOS part for sale? On Bobs Automobilia I only see one of the two drums available but it says they are for 1939 and later models. Might not be correct for 1937 tranny. On Ebay there is one for sale but $175 hurts..... thanks Martin
  10. "A ball check in the passage between oil collecting groove and the crankcase, prevents oil from running back when the front of the engine is tilted more than 18 degrees equivalent to a 28% grade" Can anyone specify with picture please where the ball should be placed? Which size?
  11. @Oldtech: please specify - "a wooden square pin" to tap where? Not sure I have understood what you are suggesting
  12. and for the vertical joint behind rear main bearing: should this be sealed off with cork gasket (as per original shop manual from 1937) or modern neoprene replacement? Where to source it? Couldn't see it with Bob Automobilia for example
  13. Hi, nobody out there who can help??
  14. And here is a picture of a rear main bearing showing how a guy from Australia fixed the situation: using 39 and later shell, cutting off an aprox. 1/8 inch sections of it, modifying that same narrow strip to what you see in the picture and bolting it to the bearing cup. Is this a recommendable way to go for?
  15. Hi, Greetings from Spain. Last year I bought a 1937 Special Coupe from the US, with engine and transmission completely overhauled some years ago, 7.000 miles on the clock since that was done. I have all the invoices from that job which unfortunately was poorly done. After driving the car some 300miles I noticed the occasional knocking from lower end in the engine, pulled out the oil pan and the oil was full of fine metal chips that probably had come off over the year. Main bearing shells showed serious signs of wear (thus the chips) and we decided to take the engine out. What we found w
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