37_Roadmaster_C

Hi All, I am in need of the outer top latches for a 37 Roadmaster Phaeton. Any help or information about interchange parts would be greatly appreciated. Robin PS: I have the center latch. My father removed the outer latches after they broke to get them repaired around 1950 and then the car was put into storage and the parts lost . Now I am on the hunt...

Hi All, I am finally getting the 37 Roadmaster Phaeton on the road. I am in the process of cleaning up the cooling system and have a question about the thermostat bypass valve. It appears that the housing has rusted the bypass valve seat area to the point that the valve will not seat and seal compleatly. I have read about various fixes for this and would like some feedback from the members here. I would really like to keep the car as stock as possible, but modifications are not out of the question if they are really the best option. My thoughts... If the bypass valve should seat and seal compleatly I could machine the housing and a new seat and press in the seat (I have a well equipped hobby machine shop). The other option mentioned by other 37-38 Buick owners is to remove the bypass valve and install a fixed 1/4 inch oriface in its place. I am leaning towards the new seat to keep things as designed. While this would be much more work it would keep the car stockish. I really want to do the best thing for the car and only do the work once. Any thoughts and all feedback are greatly appreciated. Robin

Phil, I am not familiar with the 1940 cars, but my 37 has a wire that runs up the steering column from the engine area. There is a terminal on the column a few inches below the firewall. Hope this helps. Robin

Jim, Higher than a 12 volt system... probably, but still not near 15A. Look for the short. Pay particular attention to areas where the wiring goes through the body pannels or around the edges of metal. It really does not take much to scuff the insulation on a wire and vibration will cause it to come and go. keep us posted.

Marty, Glad to hear that you and Dale and the rest of the family are well and that the homes faired well. Robin

Andreas, I am in the USA but my approach would be to talk to a machinist about the possibility of brazing or sliver soldering the broken casting back togeather, then boring out the chamber and sleaving with either brass or stainless steel. I don't know if this is possible but a talk with a good machinist would be my first thought. Keep us posted. Robin

A sad day for all of us. Dave was a wealth of information and always willing to share... He will be missed. My thoughts to his family in this sad time. Rest in Peace, Dave and may you be reunited with all the straight 8's of years gone by.

I agree with Marks advise and caution. Use an appropriate viscosity oil for your climate (I use 30 Wt non-detergent in my 37) and avoid any additives. Look for an oil that is non-detergent, often labeled as ND. As Mark said, modern detergent oils have additaves designed to suspend particles in the oil so that the filter can remove them. In your case there is no filter so the idea is to let the particles settle into the bottom of the oil pan so they do not cause dammage by being circulated through the engine.

Mutt, +1 on contacting Dave. I contacted him about a bumper and engine for my 37 80 convertable and he was more than helpful. He sent the bumper immediately and delivered the engine to Washington State for less than truck freight (now he was heading west for other things, but what helpful service). Robin

I agree, ones not enough, thats why I have two 1960 Electra 225 and the 1937 Roadmaster Phaeton. Both original and unrestored. Currently working on the 37. Robin

Hi Jeff, I won't be much help but I will follow this for my own information. I have a 37 Roadmaster Convertible and it is like your 36 and is negative ground. My experience with the old Buicks is that the generator probably survived the backward battery, but may have been reverse polarized, if so it will need to be re-polarized properly. I don't remember the procedure but someone here on the forum will know I'm sure. To check this just correct the battery polarity, start her up and watch the amp meter on the dash. If it shows a charge then you are OK. I, like you, don't understand how the car could start (starter would run backward). If someone could explain this I would be grateful.

Hi All, I started out on the family orchard. While at college learning electronics I was a resident firefighter which kept cost down. I went on to be the chief engineer at several radio stations in the North West. I moved on to industrial control system design and repair as well as radio communications systems design and repair. I now own my own business and specialize in two-way radio systems, primarily for police, fire and medical response, as well as industrial controls for all types of computer controlled applications. Example: computer controls for fruit warehouses that control the refrigeration and storage atmosphere environment. My personal joke is 'if it has a wire in it I will work on it at least once'. Old cars have wires RIGHT I also am a machinist and have a fairly well equipped machine shop on the side.

Hi Dave, Thanks for the input. I suspected that what was in the car was the correct setup. You have confirmed this. Is there any way to cross the Buick part numbers to current seals? If you have a way it would be appreciated. Thanks, Robin

Hello All, I need some input from anyone who has worked on the rear axel of a 37 Buick Roadmaster. I purchased a set of seals from an old Buick supplier which were listed as being for a 37 series 80 & 90. I have now pulled the axels and have run into a problem. The seals I bought were a leather lip seal and a felt disc/washer. The seals in the car are both leather lip seals. The shop manual for this car is of little help as it conflicts... in one section it states that the rear bearings are lubricated with oil from the differential, and in another section it states that they are greased. My car appears to be greased as it uses lip seals on both sides of the bearing. Any help, input or thoughts would be apperciated. Just to clarify, I am refering to the outer bearing area of the axel. I am rebuilding the brakes and don't want to take the risk of an oil/grease leak dammaging the new brakes. The car has not been on the road since 1952 so I am just being extra fussy with my rebuild. Thanks All, Robin

Hello All, I need some input from anyone who has worked on the rear axel of a 37 roadmaster. I purchased a set of seals from an old Buick supplier which were listed as being for a 37 series 80 & 90. I have now pulled the axels and have run into a problem. The seals I bought were a leather lip seal and a felt disc/washer. The seals in the car are both leather lip seals. The shop manual for this car is of little help as it conflicts... in one section it states that the rear bearings are lubricated with oil from the differential, and in another section it states that they are greased. My car appears to be greased as it uses lip seals on both sides of the bearing. Any help, input or thoughts would be apperciated. Just to clarify, I am refering to the outer bearing area of the axel. I am rebuilding the brakes and don't want to take the risk of an oil/grease leak dammaging the new brakes. The car has not been on the road since 1952 so I am just being extra fussy with my rebuild. Thanks All, Robin

Hello, I am in need of a rear brake drum for a 1937 Buick Roadmaster 80C. If you have a drum or two for sale or can point me in the right direction please contact me here or by email at: rdfeil@aol.com

Hello, I am looking for a rebuildable block or complete engine for a 1937 Roadmaster 80C. If you have one or could point me in the right direction I would be greatful. Thank You, Robin

Hello, I am looking for a 1937 320 rebuildable block or complete engine for a 1937 Roadmaster. Any help in tracking one down would be appreciated. Thanks, Robin