37_Roadmaster_C

Keith, The check you describe and the strange results leave me wondering what you have going on. I would expect that when you ground the sender terminal on the gauge the needle should go to empty not 1/4. Now I will have to do a little research on the operation of the Buick gauge, but I think that any ground resistance may cause the gauge to read high. You might want to try running a temporary ground wire directly from the battery to the gauge sender terminal and see if the gauge reads empty. If it does then you have chassis ground problems, if there is no difference then you most likely have a gauge problem. I currently have my Roadmaster apart so I can do some basic checks and I will report back with the tests and results. If any others have any thoughts on this problem and the test results Keith is seeing please chime in with your thoughts. Rob in

Keith, The resistance values I listed were obtained by measuring the sender in my 37 Roadmaster which is the same as yours. Mine actually measures 0.15 when fully down (Empty) and 31.2 when fully up (Full). Robin

:DMarty, You can't sell the 34. If you sell the 34 the Roadmaster will get lonely and vapor lock just to teach you a lesson . Just kidding.... If you feel you need the space and/or the cash then follow your heart and make another Buick fan VERY HAPPY. Robin Then sell me your 37 so I can have a pair :cool:.

Gene, You might want to contact one of the 'North Cascade Buick Club' people. They might be able to point you in a good direction. Check out their web sight for info and contact numbers: www.buickshoprag.org Robin

Keith, The sender for your '36 is a 0 to 30 ohm unit, empty is 0 ohms and full is 30 ohms. With your sender reading 10 ohms at empty level and 40 ohms at full the guage will read about 1/3 when empty and over full when full, about what you say yours reads. Now for the bad news ... no resistor will fix this problem as you need to get the resistance down 10 ohms across the board. You might be able to adjust the sender rehostat or bend the float arm or..... but what you need is for the resistance to be 0 or VERY close at empty and 30 at full. If you can not get this range I would call the supplier and ask them for an exchange as the one you have is defective. I hope this helps. Robin

Bill, I am not sure of this, but I think that the conversion to a three wire alternator would be as simple as bolting it in the mounts, connect the charging wire you now have to the output terminal and connecting the field wire to the ignition switch, this wire needs either an idiot light or a resistor in it to funcTion properly. The third wire is a sence wire to help keep the charging voltage regulated. It can be hooked up to the main output in this case. Google 'alternator wiring' and you will find all kinds of info on this subject. I would probably go this route as opposed to changing pullys and/or reving the engine to start the alternator charging. Robin

Jim, Either way will work very well. If you have custom cables made things look better because there is only one cable visible in the engine area. If you opt to use two sets of cables it is easy to do and one possible advantage is that if you choose to go back to one battery you simply remove the extra cables and you are good to go. Myself, I would go for the custom cables as the looks are more important to me than the cost or the ease of installation. Just my thoughts. Robin

+1 Amen

Alex, I am sorry that you felt that you got the cold shoulder from some of the more senior folks at the show. I have also felt that way sometimes when I look over classic origionals at the shows. Many of the displayers feel that I should be over at the hot rod section as I am a little on the scruffy side and 49 years old and often carrying a portable two way radio listening to the police and fire services (I am a radio shop owner and keep an ear on my customers so I can be a step ahead if a problem pops up). Now, when they find out that the cars I own are both classic and 100% stock they often warm up a lot and welcome me into the family. Anyway, what I am saying is to keep the faith and don't look down on all older colectors because of an unfortunate day, most are really nice people and a wealth of information to us newer guys. Collect yourself a Packard phaeton and lets go for a cruse, I'll meet you in North Dakota and we can go from there . Robin

Hi Tim, I am no expert, but I have done a lot of fixing over the years on the farm. The first thing I would do is check and record the compression of each cylinder. Do this both dry, and with oil added to seal the rings. Record both readings for future reference. If you have a stuck/burned valve the compression on that cylinder will be low and the oil will not help much. If all cylinders are relatively even then valves are not your problem. It is also nice to have the compression readings for reference in future years when things age more and you want a number to compare to. If the compression check is good then I would move on to the timing and possibly carburation. I am no expert here so I will simply say to check the shop manual and follow the instructions as to setting the timing etc... Hopefully someone with more experience in this area will chime in and offer you some ideas on the best way to proceed to find your problem. Personaly, I think the timing and carburation are most likely the problem as you stated that the car did not have the problem prior to working on the distributor and the timing. I have also heard that the dual carb setup can be a bit finickey, but I know nothing about that first hand... others will chime in to help. Good luck, Robin

+1 for Apple Hydraulics. They did all the cylinders and the master for my 37 Buick phaeton and the workmanship was great.

Mutt, My Hollanders lists them as being different, but I would not take that as absolute. My 37 Roadmaster Phaeton has a LaSalle trunk lid that my father got in the late 40's and it fits and looks origional on the buick. Hollanders does not show that interchange either. I do not know what model LaSalle the trunk lid came from, sorry. Robin PS: I would give Dave Tachaney (sp?) a call and see if he can help. Edit to add Daves contact info.... The best man on planet Earth for late '30s Buick parts is Dave Tacheny. Believe it! Mail your want list to him at 11949 Oregon Ave. N., Champlin, MN 55316, or call 763-427-3460.

Bryan, PM sent.

Another thought is that FMC (I don't think Ford but another company) manufactured Fire trucks. It might be the ornament from a fire truck. It kinda looks like something that would fit that look.

Bill, I am no expert on automotive water pumps, but .100 clearance in a small industrial pump would mean it is junk, wore out, kaput etc... I would try to check with an old time pump repair shop and get their opinion. They might not know about automotive pumps but a pump is a pump and the effencies are directly related to tolerance and clearance.

Larry, I am no expert on carbs, but I have rebuilt a few . If the car ran and performed well in 87 I would find a way to get the carb rebuilt again, if needed, or find someone to help you determine the problem. I am thinking that there might be something else going on. Rebushing a carb is very doable by any good machine shop or pro carb rebuilder and a new throttle shaft can be made also. The price might be higher than you want to pay, but with all of the proper linkages, choke pipes etc. I would really think about keeping things stock. Hopefully others with more wxperience will chime in. Just my thoughts. Good Luck, Robin

Keith, No help or input on your problem other than what has already been said above. I did the same thing to my 37 Roadmaster that you are doing. I had the master and wheel cylinders rebuilt and sleeved and then replaced all of the lines, steel and rubber. I used metal lines from NAPA and flared the ends myself and rubber lines from Bobs and had no leaks or problems. I also used DOT5 fluid and have not had any problems. The rebuilder was very specific in letting me know that all parts that they used were compatable with the DOT5 fluid, same with the rubber hoses. I hope this eases your concerns about the fluid. Good luck and let us know what you find. Robin

Michael, Apple Hydraulics in New York does great work, not cheap but great work. Another place often mentioned is Five Points Classic Auto Shocks. I know nothing about them but many people mention them. I hope this helps. Robin

Hello all, I am still trying to find outer top latches for my 37 Roadmaster Phaeton. I am having no luck, so the next question is, what other model uses the same latch? I don't have a parts book or anything that would show the interchange for this part. If someone has a parts book that would show what other models might use the same latches it would expand my search for parts. My car is a 1937 Roadmaster model 80C. The parts I am trying to find are the driver and passenger side convertible top latches. I have the catches on the windshield posts but not the latch assembly that mounts to the top, I do have the center latch assembly. If anyone could look in a parts / interchange book and let me know if these parts are the same as other models/ years I would greatly appreciate the help. Thanks, Robin

Smillard, The wiper vacuum source is on the fuel pump. The 37 320 fuel pump is also a vacuum pump to help even out the vacuum to the wipers. The connection is on the lower part of the fuel pump inline with the intake manafold connection just toward the engine block about an inch. Robin

Hello All, I am in the process of restoring my fathers 37 Roadmaster Phaeton and need some thoughts on what to do with the gas tank. The tank is in fairly good shape except for a lot of rust inside and a loose baffle ratteling around. I do not get a warm feeling about simply cleaning and coating with any of the various pour and slosh options. I am thinking of carefully cutting the welded seams and seperating the tank to clean and repair the loose baffle, then having the tank zinc plated and then soldering the tank back togeather. I don't know if this is the best option or if others have a better idea... that is why I am asking. Any and all thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Robin

Robert, This is a BIG guess on the meaning of 'SPO'. In my day job I upfit police cars, add radios, lights etc... Today auto manufacturers use the SPO term for 'Special Production Option'. I see this in the police cars to refer to factory added options specific to the police package cars. IE: special wiring options, spotlights, pushbars, prisioner shields, emergency lights, sirens etc. that are installed by the manufacturer. I am wondering if your car might have been a chassis that was built (ordered) by McLaughlin then the body added in Canada, therefore being a Special Production (bare chassis) from Buick.... I really have no idea, just a wild guess. Hopefully others will know and chime in. Robin

Hi All, I am in need of the outer top latches for a 37 Roadmaster Phaeton, model 80C. Any parts, help or information about interchange parts would be greatly appreciated. Please reply to rdfeil@aol.com Thank You, Robin

Thank you everyone for the insight. It sounds like I was making a mountain out of a mole hill. I will clean things up and put her back togeather. As for rust removal, I have a really neat trick that I learned from some other machinists. It is an electrolysis method for rust removal. Very simply you use a relatively low DC voltage to electrically remove rust, think battery charger. To do this you will need a plastic container large enough to hold your parts with enough room at the outer edge for a steel plate (use only steel, Not stainless, galvanized, copper etc). Make a solution of water and washing soda (baking soda will work just not as well), use about 1 table spoon soda to a gallon of water. Hook up your battery charger as follows... Positive lead to the steel plate, negative lead to your part (if several parts connect them togeather with clips, wire etc.), make sure the parts do NOT short to the plate. Place the parts in the solution with the plate and plug in the charger. Word of caution, this process releases hydrogen gas so do it in a well ventalated area or outside. If the current is to high for the charger make the solution weaker by adding water, 1-5 amps is plenty for medium parts (water pump size). You will see bubbles forming, this means it is working. Let it cook for as long as needed to remove rust, normally 24 hours or so will go a good job on moderately rusted parts. Turn off the charger and wash off the parts, a light scuff with steel wool helps a lot. If not good enough just put back in the soup and let it cook longer. Now for some insight... 1) this method works best with a straight path between the parts and the plate. I use a 12 inch steel pipe section in a 5 gallon plastic bucket for my plate. 2) the solution will rapidly get dirty and rusty - no problem as long as there is current being drawn from the charger. 3) the parts will come out with a black coating on them, this is normal and will not hurt anything. 4) this method is safe for all steel and cast iron parts, it will NOT remove any base metal only rust. 5) the solution is safe and nontoxic, only water, washing soda and rust. To dispose of it simply dump it down the drain or in the field. Remember, the rust will stain concrete so don't dump it in the driveway. Give this method a try, you will be suprised at the results. Robin

Joel, Thanks for the info. I am going only by what I see in the shop manual, which could easily not be as detailed as I would like. On my housing the valve cone bottoms out and leaves about 3/32 of an inch gap. This might be right. The 'seat' area is rough from rust, but it seems relatively even. I would think that it would be more uneven if rusting was the sole cause of the gap and that would be quite a lot of rust. Also, the car has been in dry storage and drained of coolant since 1953 so there could not be a lot of rusting going on. Thanks, Robin