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37_Roadmaster_C

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Everything posted by 37_Roadmaster_C

  1. Yes @Ben Bruce aka First Born, you could do it for a lot less as you would not be paying yourself the current going rate. Now in all honesty the timing is ridiculous, but the price may not be. It really depends on the work and parts required for the rebuild. I had my 37 320 completely rebuilt including pistons, rings, valves, guides, boring, crank and cam grinding, rod modification for insert bearings and smaller things I can not remember. This was done by a retired professional engine man in my town that the best trust. The rebuild took about 3 months including the out of shop work. The final cost was around $9000 if I remember right and he did not charge normal shop rates as he worked out of his personal shop on his home property. So $10000 is not way out of line depending.....
  2. @clipperfan, just for ease of use and to avoid mounting another switch, I would hook the blue wire to either the light or dimmer switch or even easier would be to hook it to the parking light +12 volt wire. the only drawback to the parking light connection is that the headlight covers would open even if you only had the light switch in the parking position. I don't know about you, but I almost never use parking lights only.
  3. The video Terry posted shows one way to do it. It confirmed what I was thinking. Red to Battery Positive, Black to Chassis ground and blue to trigger the open/close. It appears that when the blue wire receives +12 volts the doors open and when the +12 volts is removed from the blue wire they close. I WOULD test this on the bench before installing just to make sure. Not being familiar with your car I will leave it to you to find a source for the +12 volts when the headlights are turned on. Good Luck with the project.
  4. I do not know Desoto, but based on the picture it looks like a ground wire. Can you tell us where the other end of that wire goes? Depending on how that plate is mounted and what else is mounted on/in it, it could just be a ground to provide a good, constant ground to indicator lights or instruments.
  5. I have no dog in this fight. I did not even read the thread that is being talked about. With that said, I agree with BOTH sides of this debate. The forum NEEDS moderators and Peter does a 99.9% great job. I keep that .1% for the times I disagree with his actions 😇. I also agree with @Fordy. It would be VERY helpful and appreciated for a simple reason for the action to be listed. I am a member of another forum where members can get down right nasty. When this happens the moderators lock and/or delete the content to protect civility and stop further inappropriate content from being posted. HOWEVER, the moderator always posts a short simple reason for the action. That reason can be as simple as "Political" or as detailed as calling out a member for being rude and insulting to another member. In any case, the reason is given and the thread is stopped!! There, my $.02 for what it is worth....
  6. Just to help a little. My 60 Electra was bought new by my grandfather in early 1960. He had seat belts installed by the dealer before he drove her home. The car is white with the red cloth interior. The seat belts are a perfect matching dark red color with chrome buckles. As for length, they are quite long. I think the front belts would touch the floor if extended all the way and unlatched.
  7. @Skidplate, Not trying to trash your solution to a problem, BUT the physics of the circuit cannot be changed. The lower 6 volt battery WILL experience more load discharge AND the lesser discharged upper battery WILL limit the charging of the lower battery along with overcharging the upper battery. This may not be a problem for you as it is VERY dependent on how the system is used. Just my $.02 solution would be to use the 2 batteries in parallel for more reserve power and add a 6 to 12 volt converter for the 12 volt accessories. If you have a 12 volt starter, and really want to keep it, then a converter will not work and you would be forced to either convert the entire system to 12 volt or do as you have done. If you are happy with how it works then you are good to go.
  8. @Skidplate, Do you notice any imbalance in the charge of the two batteries? The system you have drawn is very simple and would give both 6 and 12 volts to the car and accessories, but these series divided systems often suffer from battery imbalance causing premature failure of the lower 6 volt battery due to overcharge and premature failure of the upper battery due to undercharge. There is no easy way to avoid this, but it can be minimized by switching the two batteries every once in a while (4 months?) to balance them out. Another way to help the situation is to run both batteries down a bit by leaving a 12 volt accessory on until the 12 volt power drops to 10.5 or so then charge each battery separately with a good 6 volt charger until they are fully charged. This should be done every 4 months or so depending on how often the car is driven. You do not need to disconnect anything to charge the batteries, just connect the charger neg to neg and pos to pos on one battery at a time. This will help battery life a LOT! The reason for this problem is that the lower 6 volt battery is discharged with ALL loads while the upper battery is only discharged with 12 volt loads while both batteries are charged in reference to the 12 volt series string. It may not seem like a big deal, but with Optima 6 volt batteries a $225+ each, every extra year adds up 😀.
  9. You did well! The old shop you found is a rare thing these days. Nothing beats the knowledge and skills of real world professionals!
  10. don't worry about a 30 amp charge until you have had a chance to drive it a bit. These systems pour the coals to things at first, then calm down. Modern GM vehicles will charge at close to 100 amps for a few minutes after a cold start, then calm down. Actually be glad you CAN charge at 30 amps when needed so you don't discharge the battery driving at night with the radio playing...
  11. @Bloo caught my mistake in flasher lettering. I edited my post to correct. Not enough coffee yet 😂.
  12. Here it goes... Yellow - flasher main connection Normally "L" White - Park light feed from headlight switch Orange - Brake light feed from brake switch Green - Front left or right (pairs with Blue) Blue - Rear left or right (pairs with Green) Red - Front left or right (pairs with Brown) Brown - Rear left or right (pairs with red) Black - to flasher pilot connection Normally "P" Also, connect the "B or X" flasher terminal to power and make sure to ground the switch assembly I hope this helps Edit to correct my flasher terminal letters
  13. One more helpful piece of information would be a picture of the inside switch blocks with the lever in all three positions and just for fun, also the 4 way position. We can figure it out with what you posted, but this last bit will cut the time by a factor of 10 😀.
  14. As @Mark Shaw said above, bumpers are press formed. This means that a flat sheet of ,red hot, steel is placed between a set of forming dies and a BIG press presses the dies together which forms the desired shape. Then the excess steel is trimmed off and the resulting raw bumper goes on to final finishing. Depending on the complexity of the form, the original steel sheet is thicker than the finished product from a little to a lot to allow the metal to stretch and form without tearing or being to thin in places. So to your original question, the thickness is just that, not a specific gauge of steel.
  15. @Fordy, This will NOT work like you think. With the bulb pulled the voltage WILL read proper voltage. The only way this will tell you anything is if one wire is completely open. In the case of low voltage there is increased resistance in the circuit as @Bloosaid above. Because of the resistance of the meter being EXTREMELY high, the resistance of the circuit will appear as virtually 0 ohms and therefore the voltage reading will be proper. What you are wanting to do is what @Bloosaid... Make the measurement with the bulb INSTALLED. This will provide the load which will cause the voltage drop you are looking for.
  16. Do a simple Google search for "Delco 981652" and you will find a source for the schematic for your radio. When you register you will be able to get the document for free. With the schematic you should get the value of the trimmer. If I were guessing I would expect something like 25 - 250 pF. This is ONLY AN EDUCATED GUESS. The schematic is your go to answer.
  17. Ok, I am having a bit of a hard time understanding exactly what you are saying. I will assume for right now that you are saying the pressure you have to apply to the gas pedal with your foot has gone way down. Now this seems strange in general as there is a return spring that causes the pedal pressure. Anyway, the first thing to check is the action of the throttle plate in the carburetor. Get a friend to help. Now with the ignition OFF and the air cleaner removed, hold the choke plate open and look down the carb air horn. Look past the choke plate and you will see the throttle plate. While looking, have your friend slowly press the gas pedal to the floor. Confirm that the throttle plate rotated to full open. If it did not then you will have to trace back from the throttle shaft toward the pedal to find what is slipping. From your above description I am thinking the clamp assembly right at the carb may be loose. If the throttle plates rotate to full open with the test, then I do not know what to tell you as I am now not understanding what you were saying.
  18. I can not answer your question for sure, but I would expect the charge rate to drop significantly after the car is started and run for a while with no extra loads except the ignition. It may be possible that the internal regulator is set to high or the battery may have a weak cell, or other issue. My first troubleshooting test would be to check the voltage of the battery with a volt meter with the ignition off. Record this reading. next, turn on the headlights on high beam and monitor the battery voltage for 10-15 minutes with the car not running. Record the final voltage and the discharge time then turn off the headlights. Now start the car. Note the amp meter for charge rate and the battery voltage on the test volt meter. Rev up the car a little to about 2000 rpm (not critical, but revved up a bit) and note the voltage measured at the battery and record it. Let the car run revved up a bit for around 30m minutes or take the car for a 30+ minute drive. When you get home, measure the batter voltage again and note the voltage and the time running. Now for the part that is variable and somewhat unknown to me for an exact answer. These readings will show the basic battery condition and the chargeing capacity of the alternator and battery combination. I see @Bloo has replied while I was typing so I will post now ab see what was said.
  19. To answer your question, Yes. The issue is NOT R-12. The issue is simply old equipment that has aged out. To comment on @rocketraidercomments about cross contamination. If used properly there is NONE! The refrigerant does not stay in the recovery unit, it stays in the recovery tanks. If using the recovery unit on different refrigerants, you need different tanks for each refrigerant AND you need to flush the unit itself with proper solvents before each use. If you do not know the refrigerant then you need to use a tank for "Unknowns" so it can be disposed of properly and NOT reused. If you were in the business there are sample machines that will tell you what is in the sample so you know, even if it is a mixture of several refrigerants. Bottom line, buy old and pray $ or buy newer and have support $$$.
  20. Another question... When this happens, what does it take to get it to crank? Just keep trying the key or something else? If something else, what is it? The reason for the questions is troubleshooting electrical failures becomes 1000 times harder if the problem can not be maintained. Your friend has changed out almost everything in the starting circuit except the wiring harness and it is starting to sound like a bad wire. No pun intended.
  21. @Fordy, GM generators have the field internally connected to the A post and supply a ground to the F terminal to apply full field. Frank is 100% right about the differences in Ford and GM. As for "Motoring" a generator for a quick test, I do not know if the field is needed, but if it is, the F terminal will need to be grounded on a GM generator. In any case, no harm will be done if connected wrong for a Motor test, it just may not work as expected.
  22. If you got the bend you needed without kinking you can sacrifice the spring bender and uncoil it from the tubing with a pair of pliers.
  23. Ed types faster than me... Slow Down Here.... This depends on the type of electric pump! Some will GREATLY restrict fuel flow when not running and some will pass fuel with minimum restriction. I do not know which specific pumps will work as you want, but someone here will jump in with answers. Another sure way to avoid this problem is to add a check valve to bypass the electric pump when it is turned off.
  24. There are people/businesses that repair the old mechanical temperature gauges. I have no names or recommendations, but a Google search for "mechanical temperature gauge repair" should find answers. There are probably some in the UK also.
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