37_Roadmaster_C

OK, @Morgan Wrightis measuring the spark coil which is mounted on the starter generator. @KEKis refering to the internal coils of wire that form the fields of the starter generator. The two have NO interaction. As the OP is asking about the starter generator coils and help making the starter generator operate, lets just drop the spark coil out of the discussion. I have no hands on experience with this starter generator, but the ohm readings make sense in general. I see nothing that screams shorted or open in the readings. If it does not motor, I would really look closely at the brushes and brush springs. If possible, measure the resistance through the brushes and armature. If you do this, make sure you do not press on the brushes and alter their contact with the commutator. Something simple is wrong. It will just take a systematic approach to finding the problem.

Here is one on Amazon that has a 12 volt 10 amp capacity. It is also isolated so positive ground is no problem. I have never used this product so I am not recommending, just showing an option if you like what it says. 6 to 12 volt converter

There are no rebuild kits that I know of. A friend and I had 2 older 36&37 units to repair. My buddy is MUCH more ambitious than I am so he took the lead. He did manage to repair both, mostly connection issues. He even replated the units with zinc for rust prevention. My contribution was to machine new copper sleeve rivets to reassemble the senders like the factory build (I told you he was ambitious!). The units work, but the time and effort were considerable when replacement units are available for a reasonable cost. Thanks Bloo.

I agree with the above! I had (still have) an older import 4X4 truck that had similar issues. The truck would run fine around town, but take it off road where you needed more power and it would sputter and cough like crazy. New 3 dollar fuel filter (35 years ago) and problem solved. Check and clean/replace all fuel filters and give it a shot. Others will chime in with better information, but there may also be a sock on the fuel pickup in the fuel tank. The fact that it acted up while driving makes me think that when it stalled the crud on the tank sock may have fallen off into the tank and allowed you to restart easily. If this is the case the tank needs to come out and be cleaned or it will happen again.

Even the power equation fails with the example, but you are very right, it is closer! Well to be more inclusive would require complex network analysis including magnetic field density, magnetic pole interaction, back emf balance, actual mechanical load, and much more. Also, DC motor speed is a complex relationship between magnetic fields, field intensity and field density. Now with that said, the actual point was that way to much is blamed, confused and/or bundled with the simple misapplication of Ohms law, Watts law, power conservation and the list does on. Lets not even start on AC moving field theory. Alternators are AC devices and people think they are better than (pick your poison)!!! 😇

This one is an interesting tale.... If taken literally there are issues with the comparison as the starter motor was designed for operation at either 6 or 12 volts. I have never seen a starter that can be field changed between 6 and 12 volts. With this in mind the 1/2 voltage equals twice the amperage and twice the voltage equals 1/2 the amperage rules are out the window. The only way those rules work are in relation to power or watts. Power can also equal horsepower in regard to electric motors (starters). By saying "the same starter" the electrical rules are now trying to compare apples to oranges. I have never tried to measure the parameters, but I do know that when I jump my 6 volt car with a 12 volt battery the starter turns much faster and the amperage is much higher. With the above mentioned rules, the amperage should be much lower. The reason the rule does not hold true is because the impedance/resistance of the starter now becomes the constant and when you double the voltage to a constant resistance the amperage doubles. Now just to be fair, DC motors have more variables than just resistance, but the rules still apply generally. My point is that for rules to be accurate the required variables need to be considered for the situation. I am not trying to start an argument about electrical theory, but just point out how simple things can make a BIG difference in the expected outcome.

@trimacarhas it absolutely right. I am not a tree huger, but I do try to be responsible with the environment. If you look at the total cost and liabilities of an investment to protect the environment things become very clouded very quickly. I will NEVER own a 100% electric vehicle. My reasoning is simple... If the vehicle has a fueled back-up power source, you will never be stuck with a dead battery. I say never excluding major mechanical failures or lack of maintenance... I do not need a full performance fuel engine in reserve, just something that can limp me home at 25 MPH or more. I live in a rural area and 100 mile trips are not uncommon. In my area I can count on one hand the number of public charging stations available. Another thing to think about is licence fees. In Washington State there is now a fee for hybrid and electric vehicles above the regular licence fees. I have a friend with a 2001 Toyota Prius and he just got hit with a $75.00 adder because the car is a hybrid. The reason? The car uses less gasoline and therefore does not pay as much fuel tax to support road maintenance. This same friend also has a Geo Metro and the Geo actually gets better miles per gallon of gas than the Prius and does not pay the adder. How it this fair and reasonable? OK, rant off, sorry......

Pass our well wishes on to Rob and his family!!

Some years back I read a university project that tracked various aspects of various vehicles for their economic and environmental impacts from start to finish. Start to finish meant design to final recycling or disposal. At the time of the project, I believe the Toyota Prius was the only electric hybrid in production or close to it. The project did its best to track and quantify all aspects of the life of the vehicle. This included mining ores, creating metals, plastics, glass and fabrics. This included batteries. It attempted to calculate the impact of manufacturing processes such as smelting metals etc... It moved on to fuel economy and recycling after the vehicle was retired. Now there are many variables here, some of which we really can not prove the accuracy of the evaluation. Now for the big reveal of the project........The most environmentally responsible vehicle class was..... wait for it.... Full Sized SUV's. Yep, those soccer mom picnic boats!! The electric hybrid was actually about half way down the chart. The reason was the batteries. The detail of the battery life was spooky. In a nut shell it revolved around the raw materials coming from South America, being shipped to Japan for processing and battery manufacture then being shipped back for final manufacturing and install and finally being minimally recyclable due to the heavy metals and the lack of processes to make recovery economically practical. Things are always changing and it may get better. Now on totally electric vehicles.... Look at what it takes to generate the electricity to charge those cars and the inefficiencies in power storage and conversion. I live in a 100% hydropower area with the lowest electricity cost in the US and electric cars are still not the most economic vehicle to own and drive. We have a LONG way to go before we have vehicle responsibility figured out!!!

Keep warm and smiling!! Take care of yourself and get well soon. We will wait and keep you in our thoughts!!

Leather does NOT conduct electricity, therefore the information about a leather ground strap is wrong!!! Now with that said, grounding of the gas tank, or lack there of, will cause gauge problems. What exactly is the problem? With more info we can help a lot more. Also, where did the leather ground info come from?????

As Matt said above, if the data plates are to be believed it is clearly a Century model 61. Both the English (American?) plate and the German plate match. I would also like more pictures. Especially a wider view of the firewall with the dara plates. What I am thinking is that the English plate may have been legitimately moved to accommodate the installation of the heater which is clearly indicated by the hose above the German plate. It is common in the American cars for the data plate to be removed or destroyed when the heater is installed. My 37 Roadmaster Phaeton has had the data plate removed as one of the heater tubes clearly goes right through where the plate was mounted. I wish my data plate had been moved and remounted, even with Phillips screws!!!

Good Job!!! Now the fun begins.... Don't worry to much about the strange rattles and creaks...... Oops, did not mean to get you thinking about ghosts 🤭.

I am not sure how Pertronix designed their system, but I would not expect low voltage to destroy the module. I have heard of systems hooked up like you describe that had problems until the ballast resistor was bypassed. This should be clearly addressed in the Pertronix instructions. One good thing is that by ordering a new Pertronix module you will get the instructions AND have a good or spare module!!!

I am not an electronic ignition fan, but I am a retired electronics technician with a lot of varied experiences..... That said I will agree with what has been said above. Any electronic ignition system can have erratic triggering, IE: Erratic ignition timing. Pertronix ignition systems have documented issues with voltage, coils and grounding. That does not mean they are bad, it just means things need to be right. As the engine was running fine and failed suddenly, I would look at things that could have suddenly changed. Bloo pointed out several first suspects. Next check the power wiring to the Ignition system. I would actually bypass the ignition power with a wire from the battery to the Pertronix module for testing. Check grounds, grounds and more grounds! The breaker plate ground wire is extremely important! Again, after checking the breaker plate ground wire in the distributor I would run a test wire from battery negative to the distributor and clamp it in place for testing. Also, I just googled the timing specs for a 56 322 and it said 5 deg Before TDC. You said it was firing at 0. You may want to rock the distributor a bit and see what happens or with the timing light set it right and see. It is possible that if the clamp bolt was not tight the distributor could have turned in the block. OK, I have said enough. Just take it one step at a time and ASSUME NOTHING!!!!!! Pertronix has detailed information on their web site. Go check it out and make sure all is correct. Good Luck and keep us posted!!

Sounds like an EXCELENT first pass!! You will have a very good chance of it sealing and holding. Do not be afraid of spreading the JB out wider as you continue. The more surface area you have the better the hold and seal, within reason of course. Great job!!

I agree with using a cutoff wheel on a grinder or Dremel tool to cut the cable after tightly wrapping it. One question: Aren't the ends of speedo cables pressed square or have a square sleeve crimped on them? If so, how are you going to preserve the square driving end?

If that job came out of a professional machine shop I would want a refund AND ask for repair money for the external damage. That finish on a brake sleeve is criminal. An apprentice machinist could do better work! OK, rant off.......

Thanks again Matt........ I try to help and seem to be 50-50 with confusing things. At least I can hide my own Easter eggs...............

That is the place for the crankcase vent tube, or "draft tube". It is just a tube about one inch in diameter connected to a metal box that matches the casting. I think there is a filter material in the box to keep dust and dirt out of the crankcase. It mounts with the tube down and when driving the air flow causes a slight vacuum keeps the crankcase clear of vapors and moisture. In modern engines it is done with the PCV valve and hose. PCV, Positive Crankcase Ventilation. If you do not have it ask on the forum or again, call Dave :). On the crack and holes... It might be helpful to get some big syringes and maybe big needles, 14 ga would work well I think. Cut or grind the point off the needle and flatten the tube a bit to fit into the crack. You might just be able to heat and flatten the plastic tip of the syringe and not need the needle. Use this to force the JB Weld well into the crack. This would help seal and also help hold it tight. As you go along filling the crack you could use some tape to hold the JB in place until it begins to set. Once firm, remove the tape and give it a light wipe with cleaner to remove the tape adhesive then sand and apply more if needed. Just a thought. Syringes are available at pharmacies, vets and some farm supply stores.

Oops, me wrong, I went back to Matts post and looked at the picture and it is the bigger opening. Its the pits to be getting older.... As for the crack. It looks to me that your holes may not be all the way to the ends of the crack. They need to be at the ends to relieve the stresses. As far as tapping and screws it is not needed. Just plug with the JB Weld unless you are thinking of stitching the crack. If you are I will leave the research to you. It is the way to fix cracks in cast iron, but it is a bit of an art and I am most definitely not an artist...

@Rock10, looking at your pictures I have questions... Was the crack welded in the past? It looks like a new crack beside an old repair. Next, are there already holes drilled or is it just an illusion in the picture? Finally, I would go after that crack a bit more with the wire wheel and possibly even a light touch with a grinding wheel to get clean metal within the crack a tiny bit. You will most likely have a working repair with the JB Weld. Make sure to work the JB down into the crack to help seal and hold it in place. On these old cars the cooling system was not pressurized so that helps a lot with this. On the thermostat housing the freeze plug is normally pressed into the smaller opening closer to where you cut the rod. Either will work so just go with the plug you find that fits! Keep going, you will get there 😀.

Well the first question is if you want to keep things original. As you mention a generic new tank I will assume original is not a priority to you. The cost is hard to guess until the extent of the damage is known for sure. When I decided to repair the tank on my 37 Buick I had no idea how many small pinholes would appear as the tank was cleaned and repairs started. If you have an old time radiator repair shop in your area, that would be a good place to start asking. Many old radiator repair guys also fix tanks. Now for cost.... If a generic tank will fit where you need it to, it will almost certainly be less expensive unless the needed repairs are VERY few. Just my thoughts...

If you are going to try JB Weld make sure you clean the patch area VERY well. I would start with a wire wheel and then a harsh solvent. One of the best for oil and grease removal is actually brake cleaner. Wheel, cleaner, wheel, cleaner and keep going until squeaky clean. Heat also helps to sweat oil out of the cast iron. You do not have to get it super hot to sweat out oils. A propane torch will work well. Another thing you should do before applying the JB Weld is to drill a small hole, 1/8-3/16 at the ends of the crack. Be careful to only drill into the water jacket. Cast iron is a bit like glass, the crack can continue to run with heat and cooling cycles. The holes at the ends of the crack will stop the run by relieving the end stress on the crack. Anyway, larger clean area and a good application of the JB Weld.

Ouch! I know that feeling well. The 320 in our Roadmaster had the same crack and someone had tried to weld it. Well, like a lot of cast iron welded repairs it cracked again just below the repair. That was it for that block. We got another very good block from Dave Tachney and rebuilt that one. All is good as the block from Dave came out of a 37 Roadmaster so the numbers are even right!!! That crack is common as the block tends to have casting sand and junk in the water jacket and does not drain well. If this happens in cold winter areas and no antifreeze the block splits when it freezes. Repairs are tough and good repairs, stiching, is quite expensive.