Larry Schramm

Unfortunately a lot of that stuff gets thrown into a dumpster. I recently bought a car that I do not need only because the car and a ton of extra parts did not get thrown in the dumpster and to the crusher. (1928 Dodge) Unfortunately this is what happens when there are no "car people" around after the collector passes. PS: If anyone knows of someone wants to buy a project Dodge touring with literally a ton of parts, please send them my way. I can send pictures.

That would be NiCad vs Lithium. Lithium is a lot better.

Are they the older DeWalts or the newer 20 volt tools? I have a bunch of the 20 volt DeWalts and I have been satisfied with them and their battery performance.

A variation of the 1954 Buick Wildcat concept car?

I might guess that it is a Weston-Mott axle. Are there any casting letters on the parts?

This is what I use. You might want to read the material specifications. https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Fluid/SPO-Series/SPO-299/SPO-299

Agree on the small compressor. The best cordless tool that I purchased was my 1/2" DeWalt 20 volt cordless impact. I bought it specifically to be able to change tires on the side of the road quickly. It is a very good safety item with so many drivers seeming like they want to see how close they can come to you and not hit you.

We have driven our 1913 Touring car so many times in the rain I have lost count. Same goes for the 1915 Truck. Both vehicles hours & hours in the rain. So far the vehicles are fine. Just clean them up and start over again. I am sure I treat the vehicles better than when they were new and they will outlast me. PS: No side curtains

JDugid, I had white wall tires on my '13 Buick that I wore out from driving. We drive the car between 1,500 - 2,000 miles a year I had new wheels made last year to get rid of the squeaks when driving ( indication of impending failure IMO) and new tires all black walls. In my book, safety is everything and getting new wheels made for less than $2,000 plus new tires is less than one wheel failure, damage to the car, and not to mention possible bodily injury to you and your passengers. Just IMO.

On one of my vehicles I bolted the ground cable from the battery directly to one of the bolts that hold the starter in place. The ground can not get any closer to the starter than that. Just make sure the surfaces are clean.

Here is the rough translation for the writing under the blank serial number area.

I just bought a truck and specifically made sure the order DID NOT have a sunroof. My experience is that if you cut a hole in a flat roof, it will leak. This thought process includes, vehicles, houses, garages, factory flat roofs, store flat roofs, etc... If it is a flat roof and you cut a hole in it, in time it will leak.

A book like this helps and here is a sample of the information in the book. The book is only about 4"x7".

Maybe WW1 staff car garage? Possibly Packard?

Many of the zones had a specific dealer that all of the leakers went to so they could be fixed. I know I had one when I was a service rep for Buick in the early 80's. They were tough to fix & stay fixed. My favorite tech in the dealership that fixed them was Lawrence Lavoy. Great body tech. Had not thought about him for years until this thread, but he still brings a big smile to me thinking about him.

First gear or even second gear is more than adequate to go up hills depending on grade. The city of Auburn Calif fire department bid out for new fire trucks in about 1914 with the requirement that the truck would go up a particular hill in the city loaded. The Buick truck was the winner of the contest and they bought three of them.

Sometimes some "buyers" will not meet the scrap value of the vehicle. I had a couple of Corvair station wagons that were parts cars. One of them even had a very desirable tinted glass all around with good windshields. I had a couple of guys come out for them and they would only offer 1/2 the scrap value. I told them what I was offered for scrap, but they did not move on price. They just wanted to pick a few parts off the cars. Turned them down. Called the scrap dealer and he took both along with all of the rest of the stuff around the cars. Cleaned up the place nicely. They are probably now toasters from China.

I have one of the factory tents for our Westfalia VW camper.

See Ed's note above. I agree, just fix the car. Anything else you end up with a Frankencar.

If you are having a problem starting a 6 volt car with a 6 volt starter with a 6 volt battery there are three things that could be wrong. The first one is to be sure the battery is good and charged up. Provided you have a good starter then the problem is corroded failing battery cables, bad connection on each end of the cables, or someone put 12 volt cables which are smaller than 6 volt cables. I would start by getting new cables probably at lease 00 size or larger. Welding cable works well. Clean all connections & contact points and then try to start the car. Cables are usually the number one problem on 6 volt cars having difficulty starting. Just my experience.

If it were mine, I would flush it well with water, let it dry and then put it in a proper sized box to be sure it does not get damaged on any of the sides.

Everything you want to know. Who owns Kelvinator brand? The Electrolux Group About Kelvinator We are part of the Electrolux Group, one of the world's largest producers of premium appliances - refrigerators and freezers, ovens, cooktops, rangehoods, washing machines and tumbler dryers, dishwashers, air conditioners and vacuum cleaners - for both domestic and professional use. About Us - Kelvinator https://www.kelvinator.com.au › Others And more information: Electrolux Electrolux brand appliances have been making housework easier for more than a century. Established in Sweden, the Electrolux company currently owns Frigidaire, Tappan, Kelvinator and Gibson appliance brands. In 2014, Electrolux tried to purchase the General Electric appliances division at a cost of more than $3 billion in cash. The deal was quashed by the United States Department of Justice on the grounds that the merger of the two companies would create an unfair monopoly in the American household appliances market.

The first truck is a 1916 D-4 truck because it does not have a crank attached to the front of the truck. 1916 Buick trucks had an electric starter. This truck was originally a hearse from out in Texas and maybe Oklahoma. Changed to a depot hack years ago. Last time I knew the truck was in York, Pa. The truck in the black & white picture from NZ is a 1915 C-4 because it has a crank on the front of the truck. 1915 Buick trucks did not have electric start. They only had a generator.

My vote is for a door knocker. It appears that the lower part is hinged.

Easier to read.