Larry Schramm

The house is across the street from the Durant-Dort Carriage offices and around the corner from the GM Factory 1 facility. It is in an historic district as the article noted.

If you think that price is high, buy a pair of pistons for a 2 cylinder 1908 Model F Buick.

I agree with Mark. These engines are only clean for maybe the first 15 minutes after a rebuild and maybe shorter if you start driving them. When the owners manual says to oil the lifters and valves every 25-50 miles, every thing gets dirty. Also, if the car is not dripping oil, then there is probably something wrong or it is running out of oil.

I was on the same tour with Brian. Good time and good roads.

Our local Culvers restaurant has a cruise-in car show every Tuesday afternoon/evening during the summer and they regularly have over 500 cars and their owners & families show up. No judging. Just getting together and have some fun. There is a DJ with music that is NOT TOO LOUD so everyone can still talk. One or two of the local auto parts stores donates some "prizes" for a drawing- give away which they may give away 50 small items from lubricant to microfiber towels. The restaurant gives a 10% discount on all meals to the "cruisers" for the night as an incentive to attend. How many organized "car shows" have over 500 cars show up, let alone almost every week all summer? Trophies not needed for a good show and a good time. No one gets their feelings hurt. Just IMO and observations.

I have seen worse.

Where are you located?

Car worked well, except I hit the limit of the brakes after the thousands of miles we have put on this car.. I am in the process of renewing the brakes/ new linings. Need to get them done in the next couple of weeks as we are leaving for another tour in July in Alabama. Most important part of a car is being able to stop.

Last week was a good week for touring. Brian & Christine Heil with their '23 Buick, Joe & Julie Tonietto with their '23 Cadillac, and Joyce and I with our '13 Buick just finished a tour out of Harrison, Ohio just a little north west of Cincinnati along with 15 other vehicles. We got to see a number of sights including several creek crossings and had a good time with this group. (Thanks to Brian for getting us involved). Through Thursday we recorded about 430 miles which brings our total for the year to 500 miles and we are still moving forward with several more tours for the summer.

"Sticking the clutch" in not really necessary if you use the car weekly, but if you let it sit over the winter or for a month or more it will save you a lot of grief where the clutch will stick to the flywheel and it can be problematic to get it loose. I keep a stick in all of my cars so the clutch is disengaged when not driving. My truck shown below.

Nice looking car!

It would be very light steering.

Lamar, Been a while since I scrolled through your pictures, but the "barn" looks great. You do great work in tying everything together.

Interesting how it grows to collect rain water and funnel it back to the fungus root/tree area to keep growing.

Thanks for the information. Car has now been sold.

I had one of those in college.

My first impression is that it is a storage box for a sewing machine.

If the OEM transmission cooler is located in the radiator tank, how is it optimum to have a cooler transmission? The OEM's designed the vehicle transmission to be able to take 200degF. Should not be a problem. Now if the transmission temp is running in the 250degF, might be a problem.

Talk to John, He owns the place. Good guy. Note, they have been in business since the mid 1920's and they have done a lot of one and two cylinder engines.

For the engine work, I would recommend Hart's machine shop in Cecil, Ohio. They have done a number of engines for me. They can do it all including babbiting bearings, etc...

The thing you will use most often is a ball point pen to pay for stuff you'll "need".

Bob, You might go to an axle repair shop and see what they have. A modern "C" clip axle retainer might work as it is retained by the groove in the gear. Look here for examples and maybe one that will fit. https://www.google.com/search?q=axle+retainer+c+clip&client=opera&hs=2rJ&sxsrf=AJOqlzXcQl6AX2QT8bBH19W0ngg7QXOnrg%3A1678842835737&ei=0xsRZIHDLNquqtsPr-KU8Aw&ved=0ahUKEwjB-O324Nz9AhVal2oFHS8xBc4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=axle+retainer+c+clip&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQAzIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKABMgUIIRCgATIICCEQFhAeEB0yCgghEBYQHhAPEB0yCAghEBYQHhAdMggIIRAWEB4QHToECAAQRzoFCAAQgAQ6CAgAEBYQHhAPOgYIABAWEB5KBAhBGABQ1glY-CpghzNoAHACeACAAcEBiAHtCpIBBDAuMTGYAQCgAQHIAQjAAQE&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

If it were mine, I would keep it simple. I would use the original crankshaft, remove the three of the four main bearing caps that are not original and replace them with the original caps. Get the crankshaft cleaned up and have the bearings rebabbited. Dig out the original oil pump and install it as original. There is no reason to try to re-engineer these engines. They went hundreds of thousands of miles on the original design worry free. If you go back to all original and you need a part, it is easier to find an original than try to find a part for a franken-car with what ever the dimensions. Just my opinion and what I practice. The one thing that I do change on my vehicles that is not original is to install aluminum pistons instead of the original cast iron pistons. Less reciprocating mass which should have less stress and wear on the bearings.

Everyone, I will be at Chickasha this week and let's plan on getting together on Friday at 12:00 noon Oklahoma time at the spaces that Steve Hammatt has had for years. I do not think he will be attending this year again. If there is someone in his old space, let's plan on meeting between the two buildings under the breezeway. Be there and be square for the annual picture Friday at 12:00 noon Oklahoma time. See everyone. Larry

From my what I would consider extensive knowledge of Buick Trucks, these never were never "factory" built trucks for around the factory in that era to the best of my knowledge. They were probably cut down after their value as a car had diminished long after they were sold as cars. During the depression and before many larger cars including 6 cylinder Buicks, Packards, Cadillacs were cut down and used as trucks and tow trucks because of their heavy suspensions and larger engines. Buick never built any six cylinder trucks in the brass & nickel era. All Buick trucks built in that era were 4 cylinder trucks except the 1910 Model 2A and the 1908 "Delivery Car" which both of those vehicles were built on the 2 cylinder chassis, similar to the Models F&G in that time frame. The only Buick built trucks that were built, but not sold were the 1940 Buick Engineering rework of a 1940 car. There were five of these vehicles made and used by Buick Engineering in Flint. Only one survives and it is well documented. I have three documented Buick trucks that were sold originally as a truck to the public including a 1908 Buick Delivery Car body. If you need any other information, please ask. Look at this thread for some examples.