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  1. Thanks for that. I had thought of the conventional in the past, although the oftener changes were a little off-putting. If it does the job then that's all that matters, and it sounds like it does pretty well That's a modest drop in oil pressure and an interesting indicator. 2500-3000 miles sounds about right. I don't let it go for much longer than that. If it's seldom driven, then changing it annually is pretty good. We still get the 20 litre drums here, which come in handy. Particularly so if it doesn't like staying in the engine Hi Marty, if you don't mind me asking, what was the reason for the change? I'm not questioning your decision, but I'm interested as to why. Very interesting to hear about the early cars, especially the '15 Hudson. Must be a breeze at oil changing time, the use of one oil must make it easier. As a side note, how's the '54 Cadillac on the NAPA Full Synthetic 15W-40? I have a '58 Fleetwood, unrestored, and I'm a bit unnerved at the thought of using a full synthetic. It seems to be working quite well in your case, but I'd love to hear a little more about the Caddy
  2. Hi bryankazmer, The cold starts aren't too much of a problem down here. We get the occasional cold morning, but nothing compared to your winters. The higher temperature protection is what's mainly required, as it isn't unusual to have 110 degree Fahrenheit days here. Naturally the engine's temperature will be pushed to the limits during those days. Couldn't agree more with the multi-viscosity, it's a must. Hi padgett, Price isn't too much of a concern here, more than happy to pay more for something if it's going to do a better job. The oil filter is always changed with the oil. What's your change interval for the Mobil 1 High Mileage? Hi 56buickinga, I can't say I've seen Shell Rotella around here. I tend to agree with you about the zinc additive, I like to use it too. Hi plymouthcranbrook, It seems you've got a larger selection of engine oils over there, I haven't come across this brand before. Couldn't agree more, even the cheapest oil is better than the best from fifty years ago. Hi 1956322, is this the semi-synthetic variety? Great to hear you've got a '56 daily driver, how's the engine doing twenty years later?
  3. Hi pontiac1953, thanks for the input. I'll keep this in mind. Hi 37_Roadmaster_C, thanks for the great reply. I had no problems with the oil he suggested, I was just after a few opinions. I had thought the same thing, but would the thicker oil be better suited to the engines that haven't been rebuilt? As for simplicity, it makes a world of sense. I tend to agree with you about synthetics; although. semi-synthetic has been okay so far. Interesting to hear about the synthetic gear oils. I'll be keeping this in mind. Thank you very much for your thoughts, I love to hear it. I'd like to know your thoughts, and others' thoughts, about having a '56 Buick as a daily driver. I was considering posting this as a separate topic, and may do so depending on what people have to say. It's treated me well for so many years, but I'd like to hear what other people think, list their pros and cons, and so on Cheers, Nick
  4. G'Day everyone, I have no doubt this has been asked in the past, and I don't wish to start a war, but what is the general consensus surrounding oil recommendations for a 1956 Buick? The Shop Manual states that for temperatures not lower than 10 degrees Fahrenheit, single viscosity SAE 10W or multi-viscosity SAE 10W-30/10W-20 will do the job. Needless to say, this was applicable to a brand-new engine in 1956; however, this particular engine has been rebuilt. With regards to the climate, here in Melbourne, Australia, extreme cold isn't really a problem, so 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-23 degrees Centigrade) is definitely on the safe side. A few things to add to the dilemma. I now have three '56 Buicks. The Super Sedan and Century Wagon have been in the family since new, but I've added a Roadmaster to the line. The engines in the Century and Roadmaster have not been rebuilt and are as close to original as possible, although the Century's is getting tired. The Super has been rebuilt, about four years ago now. The bloke who rebuilt the engine in the Super recommended Penrite semi-synthetic 10W-40. The Century and Roadmaster run Penrite semi-synthetic 15W-40. So far I haven't had any problems, aside from the usual leaks, but I'd like to get a few opinions. It's worth noting how the cars will be driven. The Super is now a daily driver. It'll experience all aspects of modern-day driving - traffic, stop-starting, city driving, all weather, night time, and so on. It now averages ~10,000 kilometres a year. The Century was a daily driver, but is now limited to weekends. Although, I'll take it to work every so often. The Roadmaster will seldom be driven. As an all-original, all-optioned car, It'll be taken out a few times a month. The Super's engine will be made to work, and considering it was recently rebuilt, it should be up to the task. However, the engine oil is also going to have to work hard. I'm most concerned about the Super; the Roadmaster and Century seem happy on 15W-40, but I'd love to hear what you all think. Sorry for such a long post, but I feel that all of this information is relevant. Cheers, Nick
  5. G’day all, After a couple of years of very little action, I decided to take the Buicks out for a spin. To my surprise, both of them fired up, ran, and, drove perfectly, despite sitting for so long. Yet another surprise was the fact that both of them, whilst sitting, and after being driven, had not leaked a drop. So I thought to myself, all’s good. Well, like most Buick-related problems, it was ephemeral; the power steering system on the Super has got an almighty leak. Now, this could be down to a few things. For one, time; the cars have been sitting for a while, only driven rarely – about once every two or so months. Secondly, this occurred the other day, I had to do an extremely tight reverse parallel park. The power steering system got a workout then, going from left-lock to right-lock a number of times. The car-parks here in Australia are just too small! I am fairly certain that the latter of the two must have caused something to go wrong somewhere in the power steering system. Also, a few things worthy of note: the leak is most evident when the engine is running, obviously; however, the reservoir attached to the pump was almost completely drained when I checked the following morning, despite having topped it off after I shut the car off. Thus, I think it is fairly safe to assume that it’s leaking with the engine off. One last thing, the pump itself looks pretty good, and the power steering gear housing looks good to me; the top portion of it, where the hoses screw in, is clean and doesn’t appear to be the source of the problem. In the near-future I’ll be putting the car up on the hoist and having a good look underneath. Hopefully it’s something as simple as a few seals or gaskets. Getting parts to Melbourne is a pain. What I’m asking is, would anyone have any suggestions as to what may have gone wrong, or what’s the best way to about this? As I said, I’m fairly certain it was the stress placed on the system during that reverse parallel park that caused something to give. In any case, the seals are the best part of sixty-three years old, which isn’t bad mileage. Thanks for all your help. Cheers, Nick
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