Larry Schramm

Looks like a grease gun to me.

Locks and cables are only a 10 second inconvenience to a thief with a battery powered grinder and cut off wheel. And as Marty Roth said, My late Dad used to say "Locks are for honest people - To help keep them honest. Somebody who wants to steal is going to."

Hess & Eisenhart also did a lot of security armoring of vehicles. I visited their facility in Cincinnati in the 80's to help them fix an electrical problem on a vehicle. For you car, does it have standard thickness window glass? If not it could be an armored vehicle. At the time I visited them they had a large number of different vehicles from almost every manufacturer in the world that they were armoring. Very interesting operation.

Thanks. Is that possibly a Model T in behind the Dodge looking at the cowl light?

Any idea what brand of car this roadster is? Thanks.

I have been towing with a 2008 Silverado 1500 with the towing package, etc... for the last decade, but decided to upgrade my tow vehicle this year to a 2024 Silverado 2500 High Country Duramax diesel. What a machine. Has a tow capability of 18,500 lbs. and like others have said with this size vehicle, you must remember that you are towing a trailer behind you because it tows so effortlessly. This is my tow vehicle. This vehicle made me a believer that you want to tow with more truck than you think you will ever need. Don't have marginal towing capability. I still have a 1500 GMC for my work truck/ grocery getter.

Here is what I use to check capacitors/ condensers. And yes, I put this tester together from the kit back in the day.

For writing a book, we have a "travel diary" in each of our cars that we tour with. We try to make entries of each day of each tour with input from our grandson and soon his younger brother will be joining us. My daughter and her husband also fill out the book when they tour with the vehicle. We tour together on at least one tour a year. This helps to put some memories in their minds and experiences for the future if they decide to have one of the vehicles after we leave this world. They will be able to look back at some of their experiences. The grandsons are currently 8 & 6 years old and the oldest one has already been on at least a 1/2 dozen tours with us. His younger brother joins us this year touring.

I would say that this is a correct cap. Not in great condition, but the correct cap. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193189566935?hash=item2cfafed9d7:g:6G8AAOSwpiNZsVuX&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4HxzSbYXshoTQ8WozWWfqLbLWKPW0Aj6kBGRAAd51f5D05ks257DH%2F2XPmLM4WBnpfCfJ2PjOmkzMQxy5SaNSTUlASFeSDHWQx5PV5C3dvRx9HOPt5IvdvM9ztiFgOdElhZnF8cJiH4noNzneOpEgorwPBoysAw%2Fb%2BQXtg5n%2Fft0X2GE%2BkVwqjBIuV%2Fl23vJazho%2FtRhDEZ2gCeDIyetHV6JUQxmQ2KWkOgv85kUO0QYTxtWQ%2FtXpxaUTrhERh1sQsjCsvAZE5BOasIxKGLaUww%2BRSJi6QrhpduzEqgRmJjU|tkp%3ABFBM7KHZspdj

Not the case. Here is a 1910 Buick 2A truck. Buick also made a "Delivery Car" in 1908 which had the engine under the seat. It was based on a Buick Model F 2 cylinder touring car.

The first cap is the only cap that I know of that will fit on 1917 & 1918 E3x series vehicles and also the E-4 truck. Those are the 4 cylinder Buicks for those two years. Notice that the BUICK goes between the angle part of the cap on the left picture and not the flats on the second cap. The correct cap is ALUMINUM. Brass caps need not apply. Correct Cap < Wrong Cap

My cousin's grandfathers first car. He was said to have the first CDO in the territory. Lived in Wyoming I believe.

I remember that store in Flint. It was a "factory" owned store, meaning Buick Motor Division/ GM was the dealer. Buick also ran another store in downtown Flint called Downtown Buick. They closed in the 70's. The parts washer I have in my garage came from Eastside Buick. They were the last of the factory owned stores. The building is still there. It is just south of where AC Spark Plug plants were on Dort Highway.

Link to caps?

If I had a spoke that was cracked on a wheel I would seriously consider having the wheel completely rebuilt. If one spoke is cracked I would be concerned about the condition of other spokes. Rebuilding a wheel for $300-500.00 is cheap insurance. Safety is top priority. Just IMO.

We have been there a couple of years ago. Also nice car. My uncle had one years ago.

Try here https://www.skyliner.org

Looks like the bumper has a hole for a trailer ball. Nice ride!

If you like snow, last week, Antarctica. Lots of it. And it is summer down there now.

I do not think it is so much the thickness of the shim stock as the clearance of the bearing to the rod. I seem to think that the starting stack on rebabbitted bearings is about .125 inches. Then you peel off shims as needed to keep the rod to c/s proper clearance. Usually about.001"/1 inch of crankshaft diameter general guidelines. Check the factory specs for correct clearance.

See my email to you

Note, These are NOT the correct caps for your car. As a reference they look close, but the BUICK on your correct caps go from corner to corner, not flat to flat like these. Easiest way to identify along with size. https://www.ebay.com/itm/285607257844?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m43.l1120&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=0868cc2a52ea48b7874e9f9fc52e9642&bu=43186898688&ut=RU&osub=-1~1&crd=20231215070244&segname=11021

Hart's has done three engines for me. They do great work and are fairly priced.

Have you swapped out the coil? Might be a marginal coil. Do you have an oscilloscope to check the voltage output. This could change as the engine gets hot.

IMO, Fix it right and have new spokes made. Safety should not be short cutted.