gossp

https://gilmorecarmuseum.org/events/weekend-events

On their calendar they have a prewar event in a week and a brass event in the middle of July. All but the first weekend in September have something else going on.

@Larry Schramm

Is this what you are after? It came to me while trying to buy up 26” Stanweld stuff.

I would wear them with pride, but not for about six more months.

Air was just gushing out of the fuel gauge cap. Removed a modern gasket that didn’t fit well, cleaned the original with some spit and my finger, and had a pressurized fuel system about five minutes after pushing the car off the trailer. If I didn’t have a second person to operate the pump on the dash while I stood behind the car to listen, I would have never found it. She runs great!

Those are two I would really like to see. Joined the forums: 2005. One year badge: 2021. I wondered if they had an hour counter and I have actually logged one year on the forums.

I am certain that unless you are an experienced pattern maker already in possession of your own forge, foundry, and machine shop… then yes, it would cost well over 200k to make one from scratch. With fairly complete brass era project cars regularly available for 10k or less, a restoration will be the far cheaper method if ownership is the goal. Purchasing a restored car will be cheaper yet, but the guy thinking about building one from scratch is likely looking at the project as much as the ownership. To put an example out there, when guys restoring a car need a replacement component and no originals can be found, they scour the earth for other people that need one to share in the cost. For a simple 1 or 2 cyl engine jug, the pattern maker is going to charge somewhere between 2 and 20k, the foundry is going to charge a few thousand for the first one but then be rather reasonable for subsequent pieces. When that cost gets spread out over 20 parts for 20 different people, it is manageable… but if making the the first one of every component, the high cost of the first one will be there on every part…. The machine shop is going to be the same way to do just one. Over a decade ago we needed a small brass latch that held a wooden door under the seat for a 1907 cartercar. The first one cost nearly $2,000 (cast fob on stamped base) but every one after that cost about $40 if we purchased in some quantity. People were more than happy to pay $100 or a little more each for the latches and we had enough made to hit a break even at that sales price… but it took almost ten years to move them all. Following all that talk of an accurate replica built from scratch not being a cheaper option, it is an option that spreads the cost out over time. Your build could generate patterns, parts, and knowledge that help all owners of whatever vehicle you choose to duplicate. I hope you go for it and succeed! It just won’t be cheaper.

It is real, but units that actually work are far too expensive for hobby work. Equally: for professional work, who would pay a half million dollars to reduce billable time by the least expensive to pay employees.

I just acquired this car from James and am very excited about it! Seeing as it is the worst possible time of year for an air conditioner mechanic to take on a car project, progress towards getting it on the road may be very slow for a moment, other than the fact that I believe my car collector father to be almost as excited about the new arrival... he is retired with much more free time.

My Maxwell turns 111 this year and I intend to throw it a party, assuming I have it in running condition this summer... I wonder which of us will drink more that day?

I really liked that movie, but thought them calling the mineral unobtanium was a little tacky, only because we had been using the word to describe car parts for so long before it came out.

I think the most smiles per dollar you can get in this hobby happens behind the wheel of a model T or Model A. If speed is a need, Model A. I am also 6’4” and fitting in either can be an issue. On the A, look at Tudor sedans and the slant windshields, they offer pretty good space. You will be able to fit and drive any A... but the Tudor will be easiest. For me the issue on most model A body styles is the lack of room for my leg between the shifter and steering wheel when in reverse or first gear.... taking a few inches off the shifter is a couple hour project that fixes the issue and nobody notices. Many model A’s already have this done. The most leg room you will find in a model A is in the two door phaeton... one of the few body styles outside of your budget. Look at lots of cars! Sales prices are based on how shiny the paint is. You want the best driving and most mechanically sorted car you can get. aftermarket speed equipment tends to add little to the sale price of a car but are expensive to add to a car that does not already have them... some of them really help with driving in traffic. A model T with a two speed rear end and, high compression head, better carburetor, and ignition upgrades will run with the stock model A’s all day. A model A with trans swap with a 4th (overdrive) gear, high compression head... will run with the early v8 cars all day. Most importantly, welcome and go get a car, we are all having a lot of fun!

my teen daughter drives a 2006 Hyundai Tucson that I gave the paltry sum of $1,500 for.... It is an appliance more than an automobile and I hate driving it.... but... somehow it has become the most reliable car in our fleet.... I would give the square body burb to the tank!

Likely a wise decision. The 56 4 door hardtop is my favorite of the tri five bowties, but what that car needs compared to what a good driver cost... you would have to enjoy the work as much as the driving... and I do not.

Stolen from facebook

Nah, I was with a non car guy the first time he saw one... called it a back to the future car.

finders keepers losers weepers?

Generally speaking, yes they are and should be. From my youth I recall the term “good faith money” often times a small amount in comparison to the deal at hand, in other words, a deposit. I have seen the money returned when a deal didn’t complete, but only under circumstances where “good faith” was still present. Everybody has a story and it would be up to the guy holding the cash to decide how he feels about that. If a guy handed me money on a Sunday with the promise to show up next Saturday with a trailer and the agreed balance but lost his job or even just lost the transmission on his truck in the week between.... but found himself unable to complete the transaction, I would be inclined to return some or all. For the BS excuses we all know... not so inclined. I did get to hear a neighbor at Hershey, when asked for a deposit back via the wife excuse, give the best response ever: “You think she will be mad at you for buying a $12,000 car that doesn’t run, imagine how mad she will be when you come home $2,000 poorer with nothing to show for it.”

You could buy it and let Ed know he can’t play with it until you get the Stearns back.

This has to be someone we know messing with us.

can we get a video of that?

For me it was my first set of brass era tires. All of my drug knowledge comes from Willie Nelson cameos in movies, so I don’t know how much of anything you can get for $3,000... but I assume it is a lot.

December of 1915 was a huge production month for all auto manufacturers, they needed to get the 16 models ready.... or so I have told myself every time I look at anything built in 1916.

The 1922 pikes peak racing claim is interesting. If the vintage racing history is verifiable beyond the photos provided, the bidding was a little low, if it claims don’t hold up (and it sure does not look like the same car to me), all the money in the world and then some was bid.