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Everything posted by JohnD1956

  1. And the lower "J" bars on the rear bumper too? JD
  2. What color is the Steering wheel? And if it's in good condition, would you want to sell it? Also how is the front bumper? JD
  3. The instructions say for the seat bottom start with the back and work from the center out. The seat backs are made that way too. The hog ring tool works with such ease it's almost scary.
  4. Thanks for the replies. I did change just the cotton, I left the original burlap on the springs, and re-used the original burlap and linnen batting surrounding the double layer of cotton. I am not that close to Legendary, but I am going to await a sunny day and give that a shot. If it doesn't work, I'm driving the entire mess out there. I learned my lesson on this one...
  5. I would either put a 10 Amp Charger on the battery for a day, or replace the battery and then try. If you have nothing without the jumper cables, then your battery is draining the Volvo's battery too. You may have to bite the bullet on this one. JD
  6. I used to have a 69 Cutlass with a AM/FM stereo with one speaker in the rear, but that was long ago and couldn't remember which side the speaker was on. It was a waste with the top down, but I have a AM/FM monoral in the GS, so it woun't be so critical. Thanks for the posts fellows. I appreciate the help Jd
  7. At the risk of iritating you, please describe the "churning" noise. Before you do that, describe it based on this: If the engine rotates when the starter is activated by the key, it is "turning over", just not starting. This is an important distinction when trying to trouble shoot a problem like this. Did you actully remove the cables to determine they were clean? What they look like on the outside is often different than what they actually are on the inside ( between the battery post and the cable). You see, what you describe can still be dirty terminals. Using jumper cables is only effective IF, the jumper cable is thick enough to transfer the electricity of the other battery efficiently, AND if the other battery has sufficient amperage to overcome the drop caused by the length of the jumper cables and your dead battery. Plus if you have dirty terminals, the battery will not recharge as the car is running. Since your friend drove it to you I do think it is a battery problem, but caused by dirty terminals. That churning you heard I believe I heard before. Not exactly sure what that is but it sort of sounds like the ignition switch not getting full power. JD
  8. In 56, the only difference in the tanks is the alignment of the filler neck. Is that the same for 54's?
  9. Try this site: I just got a set of the chrome buckle seatbelts from them for my 56. They have a set of instructions on-line that give the best method for installing the belts. One thing you have to consider is how you will get the belts through the seat bottom and seat back. Is the seat set up so that you can get something through that crack? You don't need a lot of space, but you do need to be able to get the inboard belt through to the floor behind the seat. JD
  10. Sorry, Was just trying to be helpful. At this point I'd suggest firing up the compressor and cutting the roof off to make it a convertible. JD
  11. I am trying to install front seat upholstery on my 69 GS with a bench seat. I wanted to change my padding at the same time to try and eliminate that musty odor you sometimes get in a convertible. Unfortunatley this is not going so well. I bought new cotton padding from a supplier. AAA grade cotton. Then I took off my original seat back cover fro the passengers side. I noticed the original padding was two layers of different color material, so right away I think I have a problem. Perhaps one is denser than the other? Anyway, I measured the thickness of the original and found I would have to double up the new cotton to get approximately the same thickness. The guys at Legendary said to put a modified black plastic trash bag over the seat which would help the upholstery slip on easier, but I never could get the cover on. It was so tight, I finnaly removed it as it looked like it was going to tear in the inside seam. Has anyone had experience doing this with the seat upholstery from Legendary Interiors? Are there any tips you could share? Does anyone know how this was done at the factory? Sheesh, I wish I never started this project!!! JD
  12. Does your car have a dome light switch in the headlight switch? Many GM's use the same knob for adjusting the brightness of your dash lights for activating the Dome light. This will override the door switches, although I don't think it would result in a cancellation of the light after a half hour. Anyway, try rotating your dashboard lights to the darker setting. If you feel a click then check your dome light , it should be off. JD
  13. A 49 body was that light? I thought these would be much heavier than that. JD
  14. Good News on the radiator. Now just to find a new overflow container. But you can wait on that for a bit. Lets get your motor started. Often the battery terminals get a layer of corrosion between them and the battery post. That's enough to stop a starter. I would remove the cables and clean all the surfaces of both the cables and the terminals, then try again. BTW, a loose terminal will also cause this condition. I don't recall, are your cables hooked to the side terminals or the top posts? If the top posts, you can buy a terminal cleaner from Advance Auto ( or any parts store) for a few bucks . Just don't go too wild with it. It's got a tapered scraper on one end to clean the cable ends. It has two different circular scrapers on the other end for the top posts. The circular scrapers are marked + (positive) and - (negative). Use the right ones on the right terminals and remove only enough to get some smooth shiney surface. If you remove too much then you won't be able to sufficiently tighten the cables on the terminals. If you have side connections, then remove the cables and use a wood handle wire brush on the cables and terminals that ought to work okay for you. Keep us advised JD
  15. Absolutely. It was a big help. Thanks Mike
  16. Adam, your picture raises a question. On occasion I have seen NOS powersteering pump hoses for my 56 on E bay. They do show that metal connector and appears to be original parts. My question is for the list: Is it really worthwhile to buy and install these 50 year old hoses? JD
  17. Body off restorations on three cars at once is quite the gamble. My hat is off to you for trying this. I only have one personal experience to relate, and it was my brothers car and effort, not mine. Apparently he used a floor jack and accomplished the lift by building up layers of railroad ties around the body as he moved the jack. I often thought it might be a good idea to see about a used boat sling if it can be made wide enough to go around the frame. But you'll still have the straps to work around while doing the underside of the body. JD
  18. Thanks for the post caGS. That makes more sense too. In my case, the first build sheet was attached to the seat bottom of the front seat, by mashing a few hog rings through the paper. The bottom of the rear seat the sheet is still in there because somehow the sheet is intertwined with the seat springs, and it is starting to tear, so I left it alone. The one I posted came from the rear seat top.
  19. It would not hurt to check the radiator by removing the cap that says STANT. Obviously you'd do this before running the car at all. If there is antifreeze in that damaged overflow container, then the antifreeze ought to be right up to the top of the radiator. As the radiator warms up, it will spill excess antifreeze into that container through a hose connected to the bottom of the overflow tank. Then as it cools it will suck the antifreeze back into the radiator. If your radiator is completely empty when cold, let us know. This may indicate need for some other work. But if it is partially full I would add some fluid to the radiator before trying to start it again. Note, antifreeze is now sold in the original formula ( a concentrate of sorts, where you have to add equal parts of water to antifreeze) and premixed with water in the proper concentration. Here on the east coast conveniently ( for the stores) the price is the same. Obviously, but for a few extra moments of work you can have double the amount for the same cost by buying the original. Looking forward to the answers to Joe's questions. JD Ps: Take those pictures you don't want to post first, before detailing the car. It's a lot of fun to compare later and gives everyone an appreciation of the effort the owner puts into the vehicle.
  20. Just a guess but judging from the melted brace for the fan shroud, I would think a tool was laying across the top of the battery and the fan shroud when the hood was closed one time, causing a short directly to the battery. Does your car have top posts on the battery, or side posts? Meanwhile, that melted cap is on the coolant recovery tank. It is not integral to the cooling of the engine while the car is in use. The one that says STANT on it is the real radiator cap and the important one. Welcome to Buick World. How about posting some pics of your car in the me and my Buick forum here. Also you should join the Buick Club of America. You may not think your car is old enough to be a classic, but I can assure you it is of interest to members of the Club. We don't discriminate from old to new Buicks. Good luck with your car. JD
  21. Thanks Smartin. That makes more sense than what I came up with on my own. JD
  22. Can someone tell me which side of the seat the rear speaker goes on when you do not have a stereo radio? Drivers, or Passengers side? Thanks JD
  23. I started the refurbishment of my interior on the GS today, and immediately came across three build sheets stuck in the underside of the seats. The best one is attached and it seems to be really odd in that the date ( 2nd box from the top left corner) seems to relate to May 1968, while the car is a 69. Also the job sequence number ( the hand written one in the top left corner) seems to indicate it is vehicel 6950. Can that possibly mean this is the 50th car down the line? Does anyone have experience reading these things and can you provide some insight? Thank you JD
  24. See this thread, the ninth post from the start. This describes the process, and a few posts later, a picture of the tool is shown. These tools are still available today. By the way, forget about the chrome base ring behind the handles. 64's dont have them. You ought to be able to push in on the door panel and you will see the clip. Good luck JD
  25. A big chunk of your exhaust tone will be in the muffler. I have had midas mufflers that muffle so much you cannot hear anything and the car sounds like a vacuum cleaner when you put some pressure on it. My 56 has a set of GM stock mufflers crafted to fit the application. They are not right for the application, but I love the sound. The GS has Turbo mufflers which are also loud, and I would think too loud for your car. It's too bad you can get a set of dual exhaust on there. JD