JohnD1956

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Everything posted by JohnD1956

  1. Getting some of these out in one piece is almost as satisfying as a real scre..... Oh , sorry, I forgot this was a family site for a moment there. JD
  2. Thanks for the solution post. I hadn't even thought of the a frame bushings but it made sense. As far as springs go, I bought a set from my NaPA shop who ordered them based on the description. By this I mean the diameter of the springs material, the number of turns in the spring and the style of the ends ( open or pigtail). I was happy with them. Post some pictures of the youngster when you're done, okay? And Congrats on a great purchase.
  3. I'm sure the tranny has to come out for this repair regardless if you have a flywheel or a ring gear. While you can get a dynaflow out without a lift or a pit, prepare for some heavy work. I only have experience with a 56 Dynaflow and that thing weighs more than my wifes 93 Regal. Or it seems that way when lying on your back trying to align everything for the reinstall. I would suggest before you go crazy that you pull the starter and take it to a reputable rebuild shop. You could have a weak solenoid or even a weak armature in the starter itself. And that would be a lot easier to try before committing to yanking that tranny. JD
  4. With all due respect I ask: What tool are you using? If a common screwdriver, then go to Sears ( or NAPA) and buy a #4 size Phillips head "point" for 3/8" drive. The larger head will give you a solid fit in the screw and the point fits into a socket which then allows you to get serious leverage with a breaker bar while putting horizontal pressure on the tool to keep the tool and screw aligned. As for the penetrating oil, I agree but only if you can get access to the back of the screw. Putting it on the screw head will only make that more slippery and cause you more trouble. JD
  5. Check out this baby from Hot Rod Magazine JD
  6. Nice looking car, but I bet the interior is incorrect. I would doubt the red paint on the dash and the black steering wheel. And are the seats Tan, White or a combo? That does not look like something the factory would have done in 54. But it is a nice looking car. JD
  7. Absolutely. You may have it exactly right but sixpack saw the same potential as I did. Most of us have only our experience to guide us and one thing I know is this: There is no substitute for correct brakes.
  8. My real life experience was with a 69 Cutlass Convertible. The car always seemed to lean to the drivers side no matter where it was. Being more pronounced from the rear I tried realigning the bumper, but it was obvious the car was lower on the drivers side. This car by the way had 11K original miles on it when my father bought it in 1973. Several years later my brother lifted the body and found the mount under the drivers seat had rotted and pushed past the rubber bushing. That was repaired and straightened the car out. I'm not saying your car is doing this, I'm just saying you should check it out. JD
  9. Paul, I would post those pictures on the pre-war site, to see what other 38 owners say. I'm sure the line are flexible now but what about in a few years? What you want to be sure of is that you do not pinch the flex lines when turning the wheels lock to lock, which it looks like it will do eventually. Was there another bracket further up the frame towards the front wheels such that you should run a short piece of steel line, reducing the distance between the steel brake line and the wheel cylinder?
  10. The Grill looks great. And the brakes look very good too. One thing. Check the travel on the front wheel flex lines. They both look tight to me. Is there enough room to turn the wheels lock to lock without stressing the flex lines? JD
  11. I still think you're going to find not much interchanges. Back then it was like a source of pride to have the cars look different each year. Now it is just a farce that they make everything exactly the same. Meanwhile, North of Manhattan is my neck of the woods. Hey Mr. Earl, If you need someone to check on the Roadie for you just holler. I'm up for a road trip. JD
  12. I'm sure the 54 Expert ( Mr. Earl) will jump in here shortly, but I think the only interchangeable parts are the trims around the headlights and the taillight lens'. The 54 was a new body style, with totally different dimensions, and if you look at the two side by side you'll see that they are completely different. JD
  13. This is either: a function of weak springs, or weak body mounts, or the unmentionable ( twisted frame). The best alternative is to take it to a body shop who agrees to check the frame for alignment. While they have it up body mounts can be confirmed or eliminated. If the frame cheks true ( straight) then you might invest in some new springs to see if this fixes it. If the frame is weak or twisted the body shop would be able to give you further advice. Please, let us know what the problem is. Good Luck. JD
  14. IT's really a shame that the 95's do have so many issues. I've been so irritated with mine because you no sooner fix one thing and another comes up. And nothing is cheap on these things either, except the Riviera scripts on the side, which I bought for $11.00 apeice from my local dealer. Oh, also the temperature sensor for the HVAC system which I had to replace a few years ago which was only $16.00. After that it's been pay, pay, pay. The latest issue is the AC Compressor which blew the front seal, and now estimates for replace and refresh are in the $950.00 range. Still, the body shape is excellent, the seats firm and comfortable. And when it goes, there is not much like it out there. A very satisfying drive for sure! JD
  15. Adam... Looking absolutely fantastic. JD
  16. Once again this is an area where I don't have a lot to offer. I have always used DOT 3 because I have never completely changed a system such as you have done. I would think the silicone is the best since you have everything new. And all I know for sure is you NEVER mix DOT 3 with the silicone. Perhaps you ought to call the manufacturer (or rebuilder) of the MC and get their recommendation. You certainly would not want to put in silicone and find you voided any warranty. Also the rebuilder may have a good plan for you on the bleeding. If you can't go more than an inch on the pedal, which seems very restrictive to me, then there must be some procedure that's required. Did you adjust the shoes up after installing the brake drums? If not I can almost guarantee you'll go more than an inch on the first stroke of the brake pedal. If the master cylinder allows the fluid to flow without pushing the brake pedal, then you can simply open the bleeders and fill the MC. When fluid comes out of the bleeders, just shut them If the fluid does not flow without pushing the pedal, you have to have two people to do this job. JD
  17. It wasn't this one with the lovely rust /black covered seats, was it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-Buic...1QQcmdZViewItem
  18. Thanks Pete, but I suggest this should be it's own topic and should be kept on top of the list so it won't get burried. What do you think Roberta? JD
  19. Hi Ewing. Where did you decide to start? I may have hit it lucky. Turns out my neighbor's daughter's boyfriend is a welder. He offered to come over and help me get the patch panel on the Electra. From there it's up to me, but I'm psyched to give it a go.
  20. Very nicely done. I like the idea of featuring a model not often heard, or read about, in each issue. I'd be interested to know which ones that may be. Who knows, if someone has one, it might prompt them to write about theirs. JD
  21. Yikes!!! Almost Jan 1st and the winter is half over. Ran the 56 today for a while. Tomorrow the GS I hope. Keep safe all. See you next year. JD
  22. Hey Zonda, Where do you stand with this now? Did you try to rebuild the pump? And how are the brakes coming along? JD
  23. I always thought those taillights were so big, I wondered why they were like that on the small bodied 56's. While I like all of them, the tail lights on the Super and Roadmaster are what sold me on the big bodies. If I ever get my Super painted, I have a set of Roadmaster headlight doors I plan to match and install too. I guess that would put me in the Modified class at shows, but I just love the slim chrome. Meanwhile, looks like a great gift Roberta. Lets keep the entries coming folks. These are gift ideas for next year. Remember, it's only 360 days till next "Holiday" . JD
  24. Tom! Buickful. Just Buickful!!! You're gonna love that car for sure. JD
  25. Ah Mr. Earl... you are very kind to give me credit for the Buickful day remark. 54 Century, Welcome. I join with Mr Earl and John Schieb here when we ask you to consider joing the BCA national. As John mentioned there is an Upstate NY Chapter centered roughly in Albany NY. Just so happens I am the current director of this group of most friendly and happy Buick owners. We'd be happy to have you join with us if you care to. But for you to join any BCA Chapter, BCA Membership is a must. BCA membership has it's privliges ( sp) and I am sure you'll find that any of the Chapters will be more than happy to accompany you on shows and tours. As a matter of fact this years National Meet is in rochester, Minnesota, and there may be more than a few of us driving out for the 4 day event. You can reach me at jld1972@empireone.net if you care to get more information. JD