JohnD1956

The supercharger ought to be turning all the time the engine is running. At lower engine RPM you generally would not notice it because of the lower compression ratio and at higher speeds excess boost pressure ought to be routed out via the "wastegate". While the pulley is turning though there is a coupler between the pulley and the turbines of the supercharger. While this can get sloppy and make noise, I don't believe it is usual for them to break and stop the turbines from spinning. I think you have a related, but two separate issues here. On the Regal I'd go over the vacuum lines and make sure they are all routed corectly. Perhaps they were incorrectly installed during the rebuild job. On the Ultra I'd check the vacuum lines for deterioration. The extra hood insulation does a good job cooking the lines. On the Regal I'd also consider putting a new Modulator valve on the trans. Even if it was replaced during the rebuild, it sounds like the trans is not shifting correctly. On both I'd try to make sure that wastegate is opering right. When I put new intake manifold gaskets on my 95 Riv I noticed the turbines and the whole general interior of the supercharger chamber was coated with a sticky residue. I believe it was caused by the EGR valve dumping into the area just behind the throttle body and before the supercharger. I'm not certain the Series II engine routes the EGR that way, but if so, then the waste gates may be sticking open causing lack of pressure buildup in the superchargers. Good luck

That , and the guy willing to dig up the pertinent part and post it here too.

That car looks really nice. Glad you joined us. What's your plans for it?

Oh, by the way, one more thing.. Please tell us why you think the front end needs to be rebuilt. And just in case you don't know, if you think it needs some work because of metalic clinking as you drive over bumps, I must ask if you have checked the gromet on the torque tube where the parking brake cable rides? These often wear out and allow the cable to bounce against the hollow torque tube making an awful rackett, but not of any serious consequence. An easy test is to drive the car a short distance ( around the block) with the parking brake lightly applied to see if the clinking diminishes.

Welcome Stick. Glad to hear from you and find out you have such a great car. My motto has always been " If someone else put it together, I can take it apart." Sometimes though it's best to have some experience before tackling major projects. That's what this forum is good for. There's a lot of Buick specific experience here which will come to your aid with information and moral support. Before you tackle this front end, how about giving us some idea of your previous mechanical experience? That will save us from sending messages that are geared below your level of experience.

Cool information. This is what this forum is best for. If I ever get a 60 ( which I hope to someday) then we'll be forewarned about this little tidbit. Thanks for asking Tberd, and thanks for the info Adam.

Good to hear we can get front row parking at the Jewell Cruise in. Here's a small problem I hope can be fixed. I'd like to help out with the judging but haven't done so before. But I noticed the Boone Valley Rail Road tour, which I'd really like to go on, is Thursday afternoon which coincides with the mandatory judging school. Is there a way to do both?

BTW, if you act quickly, I believe there is one sitting at the bottom of the ocean between Cuba and Florida for just a few years now. Floating Cubans

IMHO, Barrett Jackson has not hurt the old car hobby, because what's going on there is a profession. People hurt the hobby by believing there is a rich butt for every old car seat.

You might want to check that flywheel before going further, although I doubt it suddenly stripped a few teeth. Pull off the torque converter inspection plate, and use a wedge style tool to turn the transmission and engine to expose the area of concern. A wedge shaped tool can be a large screwdriver, or a small crowbar, or even the hubcap removal end of a tire iron. Just wedge it in the flywheel teeth and use the bell housing as a fulcrum to turn the motor. More likely, what I would suspect is that the gear on the starter is prevented from sliding due to rust or corrosion on the shaft of the starter. Unfortunately at this point all you can do is pull the starter again and try to make sure the shaft is clean and free of burrs. Good luck

Going on at least 5 years on my 56 tank. Haven't driven the car much but it's been out now and then. Haven't had any noticeable deterioration of the Renu coating. Plus they took out a serious dent in my tank and made it look like new!

Front and rear bumpers, grills, dash pads... all unique to their respective year. The 66-67 radios are interchangeable but note the angle they are on? That makes em an "A" body radio only. Still congrats on a neat car. Love all three years but heart has a special place for those 66's. Hope you post some pics in the Me and my buick forum

Agreeing with Keith and others. People go to National Meet because they anticipate being welcomed and part of the bigger entity. They return to National Meets because they had a damn good time at a prior one. Some don't want their car judged regardless of it's condition. A driven award should be a "Thank You" for making our Meet better by the presence of you and your Buick.

http://forums.aaca.org/f115/1956-hood-springs-275715.html Saw a 56 Super 4 dr sedan with black hood springs. 50K mile car appears to be original. See pics here

Can't seem to find the thread on this topic from a few weeks ago. Just wanted to add I saw an unrestored 56 Super model 52 ( 4 dr Sedan) recently, and the hood springs were black. Pics follow

Engines fueled by carburators ( as opposed to today's Fuel injection) are started with setting the choke. It's a manual process, pump it once and the choke should close. When the car starts it should automatically open a bit otherwise the air flow would suck too much gas and stall the engine. Once started the choke opens gradually, based on the operating temp of the engine. While the choke is partially closed that fast idle is helping the engine to warm up faster. Once warmed sufficiently a mere tap on the pedal should drop the engine to it's required idle RPM. As for the hesitation, I would also suggest snugging the top screws on the carb. Sounds to me like there is too much air getting into the carb and upsetting your air/fuel mix. Snugging the screws down means just that. Don't power torque these things and snap them off. They should be evenly tight with a regular hand held screwdriver.

Someone mentioned to me that increasing the flow via the carb was essentially non productive unless you changed the cam to take advantage of the increase. Don't know if it's true, but it does make sense on paper. Other than that I'd stay away from the pearl white color. While pretty in it's own right, it does look dull compared to artic white, especially on a car with big chrome bumpers etc.

A vacuum leak. Try tightening the carb down a little.

I'm not a welder, but could you evaporate the rinse water that may remain with a heat gun before welding?

Inquiring minds would like to know : If the car is fully assembled off the frame, is it true that the front fenders and hood are not attached to the body at this point? And if so, how did they manage to match the paint on the front end components, when they may not have been needed for several days yet?

Gatchel, great car!

How about a Rt 66 tour from Oklahoma City to Dick Sweeney;s place in Alpine CA during April: Weather for Alpine, CA - Add to iGoogle 79°F | °C Current: Sunny Wind: NE at 10 mph Humidity: 15% Sat 72°F | 41°F Sun 71°F | 44°F Mon 71°F | 41°F Tue 70°F | 42°F

Well, it looks like you have the exhaust on the mend. Now you'll need a custom intake manifold too. I never owned a Buick with a straight eight but I understand the intake and exhaust were side by side for helping the carb to heat up and vaporize the fuel mixture. I presume your headers are close to, but remote from the intake, so be expecting some drivability problems if you stick with the rest of the original fuel delivery system. As for the wiring, there are a couple of places which rebuild wiring harnesses. One is in Rhode Island and has had a lot of good reports. But I can't recall the name. Are there specific problems you have with the wires already, or were you just thinking of replacement for a 12V upgrade?

Look at that! The seats do fit the application nicely. Good luck with your car. It ought to be a real showstopper when finished!

Talk about rare, no J bars and no dual exhaust cutouts in the rear bumper.