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Everything posted by JohnD1956

  1. I had to have tubes put in my 56 also. In my case they were radial tubes which I bought in Flint Michigan during the Centenial Meet. They were only $12.00 apeice. Make sure yours are good or your carrying 4 spare tires. Believe me, multiple flats on one trip are not a lot of fun. JD ps: What's with the Tach? Buicks have a sound to them that tells you the engine speed. You'll see what I mean when you get it out on the road. It becomes a sixth sense.
  2. The Service Department is the most valuable part of a dealers operation. It is a shame what goes on in some of them. I have seen managers who belittle customers because they didn't call a part by it's right name. What are they trying to prove anyway? I am basically gun-shy about buying a new car because of sour Service Departments.
  3. Norb, what did you have to do to fix the door? When I took off that panel I cringed looking up there. It looks like the easiest way to fix this is to pull out the entire dash board. Of course in my case I think it is the head unit alone because I can see the motor turn the door all the way over and then back off. I do have a spare unit I got from a junkyard. I just need to put new light bulbs in it and then I can swap them out. Of course changing these light bulbs is a real PIA. But it is do-able. JD
  4. Here is the picture I promised.
  5. Several things you might check. Look to see if there is a bleeder valve on top of the thermostat housing. If so, when the engine is warmed up , open the bleeder a turn or two till it spits out antifreeze then shut the valve. This will let any air out of the top of the engine. If you do have air at the top of the engine, you should investigate why. Did you recently have the water pump replaced? If so maybe it just wasn't filled right ( ie this bleeder procedure). However, if you have not had any work done recently, I would take the vehicle to a garage and ask them to do a pressure test. There are several places that can be a problem and I don't want to panic you but driving the car with air at the top of the motor is not a good idea with these alloy engines. Another thing to check is if the temperature control is working right. For some reason my 93 Regal with dual heat controls is malfunctioning this winter on one side only. When I slide the heat control to full heat, I can watch the electric motor first turn to open that door, then back off a bit, resulting in reduced heater output. But back off the slide control by one notch, and the heater works fine. It's too cold to dig into that just now since I have heat at this setting. I would recommend you warm the car up and experiment with this. And yes, these are electric motors. There is the possibility that the cold is affecting them at those negative ambient temperatures. However I suspect it may be that the seals on the internal air doors are freezing to the ducts because of dirt or dust, and then opening once the car is shut off and heat from the heater core soaks the system thus thawing things out. For this you may want to have someone raise the car on a lift and check the drains for the A/C. Perhaps this is plugged causing a little flood inside the system. If none of that works, park it till the weather warms for sure. No point in getting the flu because of a car heater. Good Luck
  6. Oh boy, I apologize. I did look up the wrong car. However the pictures sure told a nice story. I would have loved to have that car. JD
  7. I would suggest contacting Mike and Nancy Book, the office managers for the BCA.
  8. Alan, What would you want for the project?
  9. I just looked that car up, and the production run is 1,350. I kinda hope you change your mind about cutting it up. JD
  10. You might consider posting this on the various web sites dealing with modified cars. There is a "modified" forum here, which is good, and sites like V8 Buick . com and Buickthunder may link you with others that have worked on some things like this. I'd say good luck but isn't that particular car extremely rare? Are you sure you want to do this? JD
  11. Dropping the pan is a sure fire way to make a nice mess. If at all possible, you could go to Home Depot, or equavilent) and buy a large plastic tub for mixing cement. This ought to be big enough to get under the entire transmission for the task. Then loosen and remove every other screw on the pan. Next, start from one corner (which ever is easiest for your application) , remove the screws from the corner and then loosen but do not remove the rest of the screws. If your gasket is holding everything together, the pan will not drop. You may have to break the seal from the corner where you removed the bolts first. The objective here is to let the pan down slowly in one corner so the fluid pours out in a controlled fashion into your receptacle. You may want to watch out for the situation where you break the seal and the pan drops off entirely all at once because all the bolts were loosened too much. Good luck JD
  12. Hey there Paul. The valve guide is metal, and has a hole machined in the center for the valve stem to ride up and down. The Valve guide is pressed into the head, then the valve is installed, then the seal goes areound the valve stem, and over the top of the valve guide. Then the valve spring, then the top washer on the spring and then the keepers to hold the entire assembly together. That tool discussed is a great idea. It is a spring compressor and it would allow this job to be done without removing the valve head. Maybe someone has one of them and can lend it to you? JD
  13. It would be nice to know this. We have never gotten our 93 Regal so low that the light came on. I often suspect it is broken as it seems the guage goes pretty far down before I panic and gas up. The lowest I had the car was to 3 gallons left and the light did not come on. JD
  14. What if you made that doubler and then epoxied it together on the underside? JD
  15. Can you provide some pictures as attachments here? JD
  16. You might also try the Sloan Museuem in Flint Michigan. They have been the recipients of a lot of Buick MFD papers. I believe they can identify many vehicles by ID number from 1970 and up. Jd
  17. Hey Lamar, Snipe away. I won't be in the competition. JD
  18. I did not intend to imply that extending auctions would save any money. All I 'm saying is give people a chance at the end of the auction to make their bid. That is a completely separate thought than the issue of advising someone the part they are selling is rare and should be selling for more. It is also a separate idea than advising a seller an item as advertised is described incorrectly, which I now think is the right thing to do. My original rant was that sniping was unfair. I feel that the use of sniping services block others from getting last second bids in. But I don't hold any ideas or notions that my gripe would result in reduction of those sniping. I choose instead to avoid the market as a regular part of my parts search. I guess that is keeping the prices lower for everone else. JD
  19. Duane, you may be right in my instance. I see the cornering lights were posted again to E bay, still incorrectly described. Larry, my solution to snipes is to leave an auction open as long as there is bidding. I don't know if the site can be programed to do so, but it would seem that the auctions could have a end date, and then be programed to end when no additional bids have been entered for a set amount of minutes, like 10 minutes or so. JD
  20. Hey that Manheim price guide is sweet. Thanks for the link Thriller.
  21. Paul!!! That is looking so beautiful!!! I remember the pics you posted when you first saw it. Really, it is easy to see the car is loved and you have done a nice job with it. I really hope you can get it registered and insured for this driving season. It will be fun to tour to shows with you. JD
  22. What a dilemna. I can see Keiths point, and Brads too. I would side with Brad though. There are so many items on e bay that are marked incorrectly and I would love to have a bunch of them. If the seller does not know what he has, chances are he doesn't care what he has. And if he did care he could post a reserve to ensure his prices received were acceptable. Without a reserve he is willing to accept what he gets and I say leave well enough alone so some of us with less resources can actually get a part we need at a reasonable price. I think it is up to the purchaser to know what he is getting. Just last month I saw a set of incorrectly marked Electra Cornering lamps. Thankfully Keith helped me out pointing out they were close to my car but incorrect. So I just didn't bid. End of story. Now if you really want to hear what makes me mad about e bay , it is the ability of people to use sniping services. I think this just sucks. If you are interested in an item, get on the machine and post your own damn bid. Losing good auctions to someone who plans to scalp you with their freaking machine really hurts. So much so I rarely look at or go to e bay anymore. We all know the rare parts. Auctions go for 6 days with no bids and then wham!!! there's 15 bids in the last 15 seconds. Just ticks me off.. Sorry for the rant, but if nothing else, I feel better. Thanks JD
  23. He Pete, check your PM's...Gee, I guess THAT sounds pretty bad.
  24. I'm not sure when they were first offered, but my 69 Electra has them.