alsancle

"I'll have to borrow to acquire the car and it will put a substantial strain on our monthly budget just to buy it, never mind restore it." I hope this doesn't sound bad, but a life changing decision like this is not something I would trust to an internet message board. Everyone here is well meaning and knowledgeable. However, none of us will have to pay the bills if your job goes south or the kids need braces and the money is not there. My advice is to wait, save your money and get one down the road. 1932 Packards are wonderful cars, but they are available and there will be another one. Do not underestimate the cost and length of the restoration. My experience has been that restoration costs are much more expensive then some of the other posters. Of course this might just be the bad luck of living in an expensive state.

If you can do all the chrome on that car for 25k you will be doing really really well. To repeat some of the good points from this thread. If you have to borrow money to buy it you have to pass. There are many many cars that you can get for "free" and be underwater when the restoration is finished. Restoring a classic is unbelievably expensive. The cars you see sell for top dollar usually have restoration costs that exceed the value of the car. Unless you are exceedingly talented a "backyard" restoration will not bring top dollar so don't use those sales as a benchmark. I can understand the urge to "do it" but if it has any amount of negative effect on your families finances you have to pass.

Is this what you are looking for? http://www.classicandexotic.com/catalog/delcodistributor/lowercup.htm

Ed, the town and country is a great car and sells for more then many classics. However, you are right about the club losing focus. Many people still don't get the purpose of the club i.e. the "classic era" which in my mind lasted from about 1930 to 1940 or so max. The problem is that once the mass-produced standard bodied Caddys were let in, that kind opens the barn door. People have a hard time getting their arms around the difference between a great car, and one that falls into the "Classic" category as original defined by the club. A.J.

I can't imagine there were not improvements from last year. That did not work.

Factory photo of the same model.

I thought this was a pretty cool car, especially since I have the original ad hanging on my wall. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other-Mak...emZ350101833002

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Impossible to say from the information given. How about a couple of pictures, and the VN from the patent plate? I've got a 34 Eight sedan (owned for 45 years) so I tend to follow these values. </div></div> I second this response. The value could be anywhere from 2k to 500k depending... The 500k is only if it's the sister to the car of the dome :-).

The later Rollston/Rollson bodies were hit or miss with me. Many just seemed to have two high of a greenhouse. I guess for top hats. This one is pretty cool and well worth restoring in my opinion.

Just to be clear. I'm not advocating that people should be grinding away at Asbestos. I just don't think you need to call the hazmat team in because you own a 1927 Ford with a asbestos heat shield.

So, define "Any risk can kill you". Every house built prior to 1950 in this country was filled with asbestos in the basement and I'm willing to bet that 75% of the members of this board grew up with their basements full of the stuff. We are all still here. Is it going to kill me when I'm 90? If you want to talk risk mathematically, you are 100000 times more likely to get killed driving to work then by asbestos exposure from your antique car. I'm not saying you should eat the stuff but I question the notion of death on contact. I think there is a bit of irrational fear mongering at work.

There is a difference between a life of exposure to something in a factory setting where there was much dust and what goes on now. Asbestos is not going to kill on contact. In fact, you could probably grind it off and it wouldn't do you any harm. Spend the next 10 years grinding the stuff and then maybe there would be an issue. http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_hb5617/is_200205/ai_n23624265 "Jan. 1990 edition of Science magazine concluding the health hazard presented by casual exposure to asbestos building products was miniscule to nonexistent. Various public policy commentators made the same case, but sensible analysis was drowned out by the combined forces of junk science, bureaucratic inertia and news media blather."

A vehicle inspection is nothing more than a usage tax.

I vote no. Somethings just don't go together. At some point everyone has to part with their car and you will find the market very small.

I've sold some stuff, but I have restoration bills coming in so I've lowered the prices. Take a look. Cord parts for sale.

There is almost one on eBay every week.

I scanned the prices quickly, and I noticed some low prices as well as some very strong ones. When a car fails to sell or the price seems overly low you really can't tell why without seeing the car in person and knowing all the details (like it's history). The other thing is you need two bidders in the room to push a price up. Sometimes there just is not two in the room.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">West, Are you saying that the Jaguar XK120/140 doesn't look half as good as a car with the top up vs. down? </div></div> I've never seen a car go from pure, raw sexy to pure butt-ugly so fast as when the top goes up on one of those Jaguars. I still want one, though. I'm purely talking about the 120/140 roadsters... the convertible coupes aren't quite so bad looking with the top up. My personal preference would be for a 120/140 coupe with disc wheels, black tires and fender skirts (spats). </div></div> There isn't a bigger disparity in appearance then a 120/140 OTS with the top up vs. down. Many conv look better with the tops up, especially conv sedans and victorias. I too am a fan of blackwalls and no trippe lights.

I recall Jon wrote it while he was President, so I would say 2006 or so.

The other point I should make is not to market the car as a "stutz" replica. I would market it as a 1930s Special as that is really what it is and there is a better market for early hot rods & specials then "replicas".

My other projects are bleeding me dry so I've reluctantly decided to part with my time capsule engine. Go to my website for all the details: Al's Website! This factory supercharged 35/36 Auburn engine was stored under a porch for 50 to 60 years and is an untouched original. For those of you who have been in the hobby for many years you know this is a once in a lifetime opportunity. All the arguments about paint colors, or which way a oil tube goes is irrefutably answered by this engine. Your restoration will be 100% accurate and you are guaranteed to have all the correct pieces. Can deliver to Hershey this year.

To second what Rusty said, the real value in this car is that it is a 1930s special. Anything that you can provide in the way of history and documentation that can support that claim is very important. The exact same car advertised as a recent put together is worth 25% of one that is verified to have been built in the 1930s.

There is subtle politics in almost every response in this thread. It's kind of a foolish point to begin with. Most people with common sense know that a well tuned car not running a flat will get better gas mileage then one that has never been tuned and has 4 tires with 20lbs of pressure in them. In my opinion, if you don't support Nuclear power, you really don't have a leg to stand on in any sort of energy debate. Whining about tire pressure is just goofy.

I didn't put the zoom in of the driver, but it's clear the car is left hand drive. Also, the body is not canvas. The wheels do not have lock rings, so perhaps I was wrong about the pre-1930 dating.

Note that the wheels are 700x21 which means pre 1930 to me.