ply33

My '33 has a lock screw/bolt so I have no experience with the setup in your car. But my understanding is that those vehicles that use a pin to secure the king pin usually have a taper on the pin. If that is the case on your car, there will be a right and a wrong way to drive the pin out. You may want to carefully measure the pin diameter on each side of the steering knuckle and see if you can determine if it is tapered. Looking at the illustration that @hwellens posted, it looks like there are four places the lock pin was staked at the factory. At least I am seeing four somethings around the pin. I would guess if you were staking the pin to help hold it in place then you’d stake it on the big end.

By the formula you gave. The circumference is proportional to the diameter/radius. Decrease the diameter and you’ve decreased the circumference (the distance traveled on one rotation of the wheel). Seems like the “mounted tire diameter” is one specification that is always given on the vintage tire company sites at least for the tires that fit my car. And the one time I checked with a new tire inflated to the amount in my owner’s manual it matched up pretty close.

So is Tripp-Lite. They make battery backup and power conditioning systems for computers nowadays. Back in the 1990s I was slightly involved with such things for a company I worked with and needed to call Tripp-Lite on some detail I have long since forgotten. When the lady screening calls asked where I’d heard of their company I said I had a pair of Tripp-Lites on my antique car. After a long pause, she asked what they were. I said they were auxiliary lights for the front of the car for better lighting useful for long trips on dark roads, “you know, trip lights” thus the name. She had no clue the company once made automotive lights.

Echoing above about reposting in the Chrysler/Mopar area. That said a few years back I caravanned to a car show a couple hundred miles away following a fellow with a stock 1931 Plymouth PA who set the pace at a pretty steady 50 MPH.

I believe I got the grommet for the spare tire support rod from Steele Rubber. But is was enough years ago that I don't remember for sure. And, at the moment, I don’t see it on the Steele Rubber website. Maybe I simply picked up one at my local hardware store (it is a pretty standard shape). That hole to the right of the spare tire support rod does not exist in my car. Looks like some PO may have decided to make it easier to access the fuel gauge sending unit which would be in about that position.

Been a long, long time since I got my mechanical engineering degree or worked in the field but I recall copper work hardens pretty easily. And the larger the diameter of the strand/conductor the more strain on the outer portions of the strand when it bends. So thicker strands work harden faster than fine strands and will fail in situations where you have motion or vibration. For wire that is going to be installed in a fixed position with large radius bends where vibration is not a problem you can use solid core wire. Even there you want to support it properly. For example in house wiring, last I checked, you need to support wire at regular intervals and within a few inches of where it enters an electrical box and you shouldn’t have tight radius bends. If vibration or flexing while in use is going to happen, like a house lamp cord, appliance cord or extension cord or anything on a car then you use stranded wire with basically the same total cross section (gauge) based on the design requirements (maximum voltage drop and/or allowed heating). Sorry to have taken this topic off course. The Dusenberg in this episode of Jay Leno’s garage has quite an interesting look and I wish I’d seen it when a group of us visited his collection a number of years ago. Could be that it was in pieces at that time base on what he says in the video. But I have to admit my preference on styling goes a bit more to the 1929-33 era and that car’s body just looks too “late 1930s” for my tastes.

I am not an electrical engineer, but it is my understanding that for low frequencies (including DC) the current goes though the whole conductor. The skin effect is only for AC with the effect more pronounced the higher the frequency.

He was also in at least one movie: https://archive.org/details/MoonlightSonata_627

Most of the expertise on that site is for later vehicles, 1935 and up in most cases.

At least on the sedans, that "pipe" is a rod threaded at both ends. One end screws into a fitting riveted to the large rear cross member above the gas tank. The other end has a couple of nuts that hold the top of spare tire carrier tight. That weld might be a problem. . . Sounds like those nuts have been welded, or removed then the rod welded, to the carrier which will make unscrewing the rod from the chassis difficult.

Looks like rebuilding the index has gotten the stars back on topics/threads that I have posted to. Thanks!

The PD sales literature shows a seat adjuster that has “a liberal range of adjustment”. Looking at the parts book for the four door sedan (I assume that from original question about “front seat”), the PC and PD both have entries for things like “front seat control handle” which implies to me the whole seat as adjustable without being unbolted. I know on the two door sedan, only the driver’s seat is adjustable. The front passenger seat location is fixed. It sounds like there is some missing hardware on the car in question. I am not sure if that same hardware was used on other Chrysler makes for 1933 or for other years (part numbers are different for earlier than 1933). It might take some research to figure out what other cars had that same hardware and find a source for it.

I don’t know if you can still do it, but you used to be able to buy directly from Rare Parts. The drag link on my '33 is from them and I ordered directly. Not cheap, but the part was well made and fit exactly as it should.

It is a '33 Plymouth. Probably a PD (Deluxe) though it might be a PCXX (Standard) that was dressed up, easier to tell the difference based on things like the front bumper that are not show. The radiator cap is the standard one for the PD but some people put that on their PCXX. The earlier PC had the radiator cap under the hood, a hood ornament that looks different than this and different slant for the louvers on the hood especially compared to the slope of the radiator shell. The PD had a longer wheel base than the PCXX and the sweep of the front fenders looks about right for that. And the headlights are those for a PD. So most likely a PD.

The 1928-33 Plymouth Master Parts Book shows the left (driver side) “Door window regulator assembly” for the PA and PB as part number 352380. So it appears the 1931 and 1932 coupe models share the same window regulator. The parts book also shows the PA using that same regulator for the driver side of the two door sedan. And it shows the PB four door sedan using that same regulator on the front left and right rear door windows.

You have electric wipers on your '34 Dodge? Is that something the Australian cars had that we missed out on in the United States? Or was that retrofitted later by some previous owner?

There is a technique given in the factory service manuals of the time. If I recall correctly, you grease up the boot, stretch it over the pin, the feed it through the body. I had less success than some others with it. And in the month or so between when I did it and when I was going to install the driveshaft on the car the boots already had some splits. My guess is that the boots were old stock and no longer up to the abuse of working them over the pin and through the housing. I have the best leather service boots I could find after that on them now.

Those springs often go missing which greatly puzzles me. The only way I could figure out how to get a new spring in was to disassemble the "remote control" assembly. Which implies that to remove the spring you would also have to disassemble it. But they obviously haven't been disassembled before. So how did the original spring get out? Maybe they break and then the pieces can come out separately. But given the materials and design, it seems unlikely that it would be a common thing for those springs to break. Anyone got an idea about why so many of the lock springs in the remote controls are missing?

Depending on wear in the brake pedal pivot, etc. it may not be exactly one inch of play at the pedal. I verified mine by having the cover off the master and gently pulling the brake pedal down from the engine side of the firewall while feeling for the rod to contact the piston in the master and looking for a little spurt of fluid from the relief port (the smaller hole). If you remove the tubing leading from the master and put in a short section the loops back to the reservoir you can pump the master all you want to circulate fluid until the air is out. Basically bench bleeding it in the car. Then re-attach the tubing that goes to the wheel cylinders to start the main bleeding process.

I also remember seeing ads for reproduction replacements of that piece of the “remote control” for the door latch. Probably within the last two years. But a quick search of the usual spots is not turning that up at the moment.

I don’t know that you have to remove that plate. Just that I was unable to figure out how to do it without removing that plate.

The only way I could figure out how to get those into my inside door handle "remote control" pieces was to disassemble the remote control, put it in, then reassemble. If I recall correctly, the only way I found to disassemble the remote control was to carefully straighten the tabs that held it together then bend them again when putting back together.

The "remote control" is the assembly with the inside door handle. There is a rod/bar that connects that to the door latch which is at the edge of the door and engages with the striker plate to hold the door closed. The spring you have pictured fits in the remote control part and helps hold the inside handle in the locked position. But I am still confused by your questions. Perhaps you could photograph the items you need explanation of with circles drawn about the specific areas of confusion.

Based on the design, a bit less art deco of the late twenties or early thirties and more streamline modern of the late thirties , I suspect that heater is from the mid to late 1930s.

This ad is from the September 1930 issue of Motor Maintenance. Accessory heater ads seem to be found in the September and October issues of the old trade magazines. Unfortunately, the oldest September issue of a trade magazine I have is this one so I don’t know how much earlier hot water type heaters might have been available.