Bloo

You may have to do that. On some cars it is just necessary. The proof of correct belt size comes when the adjuster winds up out in the middle somewhere with a reasonable amount of adjustment left.

0 ohms is empty. If you short the lead going to the sending unit the gauge should go to zero. That proves that the gauge sort of works. If not, then it's the sending unit, or the wire, or the gas tank ground. Try grounding the gas tank first because it's easy.

I hope you find the parts you are wanting, but in the meantime I'm with ply33. If that was mine I would already have the torch fired up.

I would take some close measurements of the location and angle of that ring around the inside, the largest dimension of the hole in the rim, the angle or ramp on your wedges. From the LOOK of the rim in your picture, later model T rims with the lugs chopped off might work. I learned of the existence of these when trying to figure out what the rims are on my 13 Studebaker. As it turns out mine are Stanweld, not Firestone, but both were offered as aftermarket demountable Rims for model T Ford. You should also post on the MTFCA forum if you haven't already.

Somehow I am misunderstanding your post. Could you clarify whether the car having the issue has a real voltage regulator or just a simple cutout? 6.3 volts is the normal voltage for a fully charged battery at rest. If it has a regulator I would expect to see something like 7.5 volts (more or less) with the battery fully charged, the engine above idle and the charging system keeping up. It may be difficult to measure. If there is only a simple cutout, the system will overcharge once the battery gets fully charged, its the nature of the beast. Lower current settings were used to avoid boiling the battery too much. What exactly are you seeing?

Trabant P601.

Pay attention to the angle of the bows as they were originally installed. Also, where the sleeves end. On the installed headliner, you will see a little breakover point or sudden angle where the sleeve effectively ended. It is helpful to know about where these were, as the new liner may leave you a little extra that you may slice back when installing. The end point is chosen to help get the headliner smooth and without wrinkles. If you slice it too far you cant put it back Make sure that the bows are super smooth, they need to slide real easy or you can't get rid of wrinkles. . Overview: 1) Center the headliner on the bows and attach some of the middle at the front and back. Adjust front and back attachment points and tension to get the bows up at the correct angle. 2) Attach both ends of a seam under the alligator strip, using a headliner tool or an old wide flat dull table knife. Start in the middle of the car. Material goes up over the top of the knife and back out. leave excess edge hanging out, do not trim until job is completely done. Do all bows. Slice sleeves as (or if) necessary. It changes the breakover point. You are trying to get rid of wrinkles right along the seams only. The seams will be the tightest part. Leave whatever fabric is in-between seams for later. If the breakover point is too far down, you wont be able to get rid of wrinkles at the seam. If it is too far up it will look funny. Pay attention to both sides (you DID get it centered, didn't you? ) 3) Now do the areas between the bows. The tension you put here will be less, but it stretches the material and makes the nice bulging curves. Adjust for no wrinkles. As long as the excess is hanging out. you can still readjust. Hold the excess material with one hand and push up on the tool or dull knife with the other. You can hook and unhook the material in this manner to adjust the tension. 4) Do the corners last, adjust for no wrinkles. 5) When you are completely satisfied, with the way it looks you can trim it. When you do, leave a little sticking out, enough to barely grab with your fingers. The tiny bit of excess is then stuffed under the alligator strip. The idea is that you could tease the end out with something, get hold of it with your fingers, and then, using the dull knife, unhook and take off an edge if you needed to. If you look closely, you will probably see that the factory did it that way. As for the windlace, I would sew it to the cardboard like they did if at all possible. With only a few attachment points it is very difficult to get it to hang straight. If not, consider sewing a piece of narrow cardboard tackstrip to it to give it a little stiffness. Wood should work fine as a substitute for the thick cardboard the windlace tacks to over the doors.

I have heard of some Chevrolets having some sort of a hose attached to the bearing? Might have been a later upgrade.

I strongly suspect you need to remove the toeboards. I did in the 36 Pontiac, and it is my understanding that many Chevrolets of the period use a very similar carbon bearing. There was a cover to remove on top of the bellhousing, and a flip top oiler on the bearing itself. IIRC it took 50 weight oil.

Is it running rich for sure or just leaking? The Rochester B is famous for warping and leaking out the bowl gasket. Are you using a stock mechanical fuel pump? Many aftermarket electric pumps are higher pressure, and may alter the effective float level, or just plain blow past the float valve. If you are pretty sure it's too rich, you could try lowering the float 1/16" or so and see what happens. A bad float could cause it. Next time you have it out, dunk it in hot almost boiling water and look for bubbles. If it leaks you need a new one (unless you are really good at soldering, and soldering floats is pretty fiddly and annoying even when you know how).

Only the relay frame (and the movable point) should be hot The solenoid case needs to be grounded to the starter case (gets its battery ground from the starter case). It sounds like the solenoid case isn't grounded. Could paint be preventing the solenoid case from grounding?

Is the starter motor connected to the other side of the solenoid? The frame of the little relay should be battery hot if I remember correctly. It's connected to the battery cable. The moving point is connected to the frame and is also hot. When the moving point touches the other point, it energizes the solenoid. I don't think that 2.5 amp tester will do much with the starter assembled. You would have to use a car battery. The solenoid itself has 2 coils inside, a "pull in coil" and a "hold in coil". Both coils have one end connected to the non-moving point on the relay. The pull in coil (the big one) is connected to the hot side of starter motor windings for a ground! (more on that in a minute). The hold in coil (the smaller one) is simply grounded at the far end, through the solenoid case. When the little relay snaps down, it energizes the pull in coil and the starter motor, connected in series. (It also energizes the hold in coil because the hold in coil has it's own ground). The pull in coil pulls in the solenoid engaging the gear, and knocking the copper washer in the back of the solenoid against the two large copper bolts. In doing so it shorts out the pull-in coil (remember it was connected between the non-moving relay point and the starter windings). With the copper washer knocked back against the big copper bolts, the starter motor is "on", cranking, and the hold in coil (still having it's own ground), holds the starter engaged until the little relay opens and removes power from the hold in coil. The the solenoid disengages. Back to your little relay, it sounds as if it has an internal short between the frame (which should be hot), and the coil (which should float, and be connected only to the 2 little terminals). It is probably defective. The coil is made of magnet wire and wrapped around fish paper or something similar, and should never touch the frame, Tiny wires should be coming out of the relay coil and connecting to the two little terminals. If you cannot find some place the wire has become bare and touched something it shouldn't, you will probably have to replace the relay.

I have not seen one like that. Thanks for posting it! I gather it must be a simple cutout, combined with the horn relay? Anyway, it appears that automatic starting works the same way a 1937 does, and that the relay terminals should not be hot. I believe the core that the winding is wound on IS hot, or at least the frame of the relay is. I would remove it and look it over really close and see if you can find a short external to the winding that can be cleared. I have set up those relays using the information in the 1937 shop manual. 1935 may have been a little different, however the 1937 manual says: Calibration specs from 1937 manual: Cut-in voltage ................................. 1.9 max Opening voltage.............................. 1.0 - 1.2 Point opening ......................... .025" to .045" Air gap (points closed) ......... .010" to .013" Generic specs from a Chilton manual covering 1938-1947: Cut-in voltage ................................. 3.2 - 3.6 Opening voltage.......................... 2.0 or less Point opening ......................... .025" to .030" Air gap (points closed) ......... .007" to .009" But that only matters if you can clear the short. Air gap is the gap between the core and the moving piece with the points closed. Cut in and cut out are set by the spring tension (there is a bendable tab putting tension against the spring IIRC). They both set with the same spring, but the relationship between the two should be close enough if the air gap and points gap are right.

It will make no difference to your rich running condition. Measuring plug firing voltage does require an oscilloscope, but generally you can get by without one. What is important is not the firing voltage so much as how much "headroom" you have. The firing voltage will be fairly low, but when you put load on an engine, it will go up. As long as your ignition is capable of supplying more voltage than what is required, it will not miss. Wider plug gaps require more voltage, and shot wires can require a whole bunch! If everything is working as it should, you are setting the voltage when you gap the plugs. Things to look at with no oscilloscope: 1) make sure your plugs are gapped right 2) ohm test your plug wires and make sure there isn't a bunch of corrosion where they contact the distributor cap. 3) make sure the carbon button inside the distributor cap is contacting the rotor, and that no pieces have fallen off the rotor. The rotor is a more highly stressed part than just about anything else by the way. If there is doubt, replace it. By verifying this stuff is ok, you can usually sidestep the oscilloscope. Also replace the condenser if there is any doubt. To see how much voltage is available from the ignition, you can use an adjustable spark gap. It is sometimes enlightening and also relatively cheap. Put it on one plug wire, start the engine, and crank it out until there is no more spark. Not sure about the Packard, but most systems can make 16 kilovolts or more. Sometimes a lot more. Although a rich mixture will lower the voltage demand, you can't substitute one for the other. If the mixture is too rich, you will have to figure that out and fix it. No amount of ignition tuning will help. Good luck, and I hope you get it sorted out.

You have a terminal marked solenoid? What year is the engine, more to the point what year is the starter? What year is the voltage regulator, and how many terminals? On a 37 for instance, any series, power is provided to one of those terminals and ground to the other to make it crank. The cover can get bent and short one terminal, pay close attention when you assemble, but you would still have to have power on the other terminal to crank. The 37 vacuum/throttle switch provides the power, and the 5-terminal regulator provides a ground. The regulator terminal that does this is marked "GND". It is not really the regulator ground, it is a contact that is grounded only when the engine is not running (system not charging). For the engine to crank, the charging system has to be not charging (so the regulator provides ground) and there has to be no vacuum (so the vacuum/throttle switch provides power). When you say both terminals were hot, do you mean the little ones? If there were no wires connected to them, I'm pretty sure they should have been dead. I agree with Oldtech. The solenoids are rebuildable. I have done it. The only possible showstopper is an open winding.

Got Spark? The eight isn't really much more displacement than the six. It isn't much more compression either. Maybe a little more mechanical drag. My 1936 six cranks like crazy. Positive cable comes from the battery and goes forward (there is asphalt loom and a little steel loop to hold it to the frame. It ends at the starter. Negative cable (strap) goes to the frame. A third cable (strap) goes from the frame to the engine or bellhousing or something. With the drivers side hood open, you should be able to see it if you look down an back toward the firewall. Make sure all are clean and tight.

Sealed beams became a thing in late 1939 for the 1940 model year. I believe they were required on 1940 model cars. Sealed beam conversion kits became available for many earlier models. I believe that is what you are seeing here. Many such conversions were aftermarket, although sometimes if the hole in the fender was the same on a 1939 and a 1940 model (Studebaker comes to mind), then the dealers might offer an update using factory parts. 1939 models of any make would have had a lens, reflector, and bulb as originally built.

Good question. For noise maybe Dynamat? In-period would have been (natural) jute. It is hard to get and basically non-existent west of the UK (and not common there). The only thing you can get in the US that resembles it it coconut fiber, but I would not put that in a car because it is extremely flammable. The "jute" sold at upholstery suppliers is not jute but shredded up old clothes. It holds water less than natural jute, so I guess it is technically better. It is also readily available in North America and not horribly expensive. You can find a similar product, just a little stiffer at a carpet shop. The only downside to this stuff is that it is pretty obviously not from the 1930s. Your mat or carpet would hide it. I have heard of people using some insulation product from the home improvement stores made of foil and plastic air bubbles to hold back firewall and floor heat. It does not sound like it would be durable, but I have not used it. A car of that period almost certainly had a rubber mat in the front and carpet in the back. IMHO if someone makes a repro Plymouth front mat, or even one thats close enough to use, buy it. For my Pontiac I figured I would make something up out of black rubber floor runner, but found that the stuff in the home improvement stores is expensive. It is also plastic, or maybe vinyl. If you want rubber, well, that is even more expensive. McMaster Carr has some. Even if you get rubber, most of it is SBR rubber, which feels more like plastic and weighs not very much. One couldn't really expect it to lay down and stay put like an old heavy rubber mat would have. It needs to weigh a lot. Does your car have anything holding the edges of the mat down? Mine doesn't. McMaster Carr does have some heavy rubber floor runners, but the cost goes up again. Restoration supply has some too but their patterns look more appropriate for the Brass or Nickel eras than the 30s. All of it is expensive. Then you still have to cut and splice and mold it to the floor somehow, unless your floor is 100% flat. I should have spent the $300 for a Buick mat (close enough for Pontiac) when they were available.

What make/model is that?

Im running a fabric wrapped "Bando Power King" industrial belt on the Pontiac. Mine is a B series. I am pretty sure the Buick 320 uses a wider one, probably a C series. https://www.bandousa.com/power-king

Well, on the first page we covered reverse rotation camshafts, twin engine boats with one engine running reverse, triple engine PT boats, backwards fans, and two stroke engines. Who knows what we will have covered the time we get to page three. Maybe space travel? The thread is about a Pontiac that won't start.

I suggested 3 voltage readings that would have sorted out 90 percent of the possibilities, and given some direction if it didn't completely solve it. This thread is a complete trainwreck. I gave up on it yesterday, but I just can't look away completely because I want jeff53 to get this solved. Yes, it is probably something simple, like the switch, or a battery, or a little corrosion between the outside of a battery post and the inside of the hole in the terminal. If I have to make a wild guess I vote for the switch. I too missed where jeff53 said it was a floor pedal. I have been wondering that for a while now. Pontiac flatheads have used both types over the years.

Looking good! For what it's worth Acme does make pre-sewn headliners. They have patterns for almost anything and have been in business for decades. When I was working in a trim shop in the 80s, we ordered from them pretty regularly. They were the main source for affordable "driver quality" headliners made from fabric you choose off of a sample card. They are likely the source of many of the headliners for sale elsewhere.

True enough, there seems to be no shortage of 30x3-1/2. Not terribly expensive tires either.

What should we use to roll the car around the shop then? I could use some 34x4 (not 34x4.5) rollers. 4 new ones in the cheapest brand available with tubes and flaps are $1436.00 plus tax and shipping. The car won't run for at least 10 years. Shall I throw them away then because they are too old? Many in this forum would say so. I think it is just plain wrong to be asking for money back on some crap "roller" tires. That is the risk you take, and the risk I would gladly take for some dirt cheap 34x4 so I could push a chassis around without spending $1500+. If they fall apart, they fall apart. That is why they were taken off the road, because they might fall apart, and why they are caller "rollers". I see no sense in drilling holes in anything. There is no reason to be buying new tires for cars that don't run, only to throw them away unused later. Any intact tire in an antique size someone can probably use to push a project around.