EmTee

I might have something. I'll have to check...

What does the Ohm meter say on wire numbers 1 and 7?

Here's the Cadillac cross-reference information from the thread Bernie posted above:

Is it really the width that you prefer, or is it the yellowed color...?

Must be on the 'naughty list'...

Yes, but that's precisely why I will probably never do it!

Note that the chart referenced above is based on the output of an Excel-based model. As such, the chart should be taken with a grain of salt. Different input assumptions and constraints can produce a different result.

OBD-2 started with the 1996 model year. I have done the 'workaround' diagnostic by shorting the two pins (A & B ) on the ALDL connector and counting the Check Engine flashes. It's not fancy, but does the job at zero cost.

I keep thinking that a fitted leather cover would look nice on the wheel rim of my '67, but that skinny plastic rim just feels so "1960s" that I can't bring myself to do it...

Pictures! Where did you find it?

How friendly are you with your local auto parts store counter guy?

Bill Mitchell's "Sheer Look" captured in these Eldorados as sheer elegance!

Agree! Slightly off-topic, but here's my personal wish-list rankings for the other two GM E-bodies: Riviera: '67, '66, '68/69 (tie) Toronado: '66, '68, '67 All need to be sans vinyl roof. So far I have the Riviera, but need to build that garage addition before tackling the other two...

I think the 472 lifts the '68 above the otherwise very similar '67 for me. '68 also included front disc brakes as standard equipment. I really like the hidden headlights on these, so the '69 model takes the 3rd-place slot on my Eldorado wish list...

My mother used to say that if your nose runs and your feet smell, you're built upside-down.

Maybe an OHC Pontiac?

I had a '67 Lincoln Continental with 100K miles that would pause 3~5 seconds before engaging reverse. I mentioned the problem to an older transmission guy who poured 2 or 3 ounces of brake fluid into the transmission. As i recall, the problem was gone the next day and the transmission functioned perfectly. That small amount of brake fluid was enough to swell the leaky seals.

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/274518-favorite-pictures-of-my-post-war-buick/page/11/#comment-2610362

Maybe try a one of the motor oils formulated for 'high-mileage' engines first. I have no experience with them, but it could stop, or slow your leaks and delay the day when you need to make permanent repairs. My Riviera has a couple of leaks, but I have a piece of cardboard on the floor and I check the oil to keep tabs on the level. It only loses maybe a quart during the driving season (500 ~ 1000 miles). Check the valve cover gaskets - mine were leaking at the rear (by the bellhousing) and oil running down the back of the block can mimic a rear main seal leak.

You could try one of the name-brand oils formulated for 'high mileage' engines. I don't know if they work, but I think they'd be a low-risk option.

I know someone locally who has a '37 Chevy with the knee-action front end. I remember looking at the assembly and thinking it's a good thing it was hidden under the car.

When I was a kid, one could generally see daylight through the floorboards of a six year-old car. Smaller items carried in the trunk risked sliding into the gap between the quarter panel and trunk floor, where they either became frosted with a sand/salt slurry or simply fall out onto the road...

Needs to be compression stroke for the timing marks on the sprockets to align. Remove the distributor cap and verify that the rotor is pointed to the #1 plug wire on the cap.

I'm 90% certain that there is no rear crankshaft seal; there's an internal oil slinger/drain-back arrangement inside the crankcase. If it's coming from the crankshaft, then perhaps the oil return/drain is plugged. The transmission has to be removed in order to replace the front seal on the transmission. That's not a particularly difficult job, however, it is more complicated because the rear axle/torque tube assembly needs to be disconnected and pulled rearward (or removed) in order to allow the transmission to be removed. The '39 torque tube arrangement is a one-year only design that I'm not familiar with so others can chime-in on things to look for (or look out for) during disassembly.

Looks like it is an AC platinum plug. I found this site with cross-reference to other brands: https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/AC_DELCO/2 I clicked on the Autolite 26 choice and it crosses back to AC R45TS. Check that your choke is functioning correctly.