Hemi Dude

IF YOU BYPASS THE VALVE, you may find that as you drive, the temperature gauge will be erratic. Showing large temperature fluctuations as the engine is in warmup stage.

CHECK AGAIN! Something is pulling the battery down. Recharge battery FIRST. THEN! EVEN WHILE BATTERY IS CHARGING, with hood closed. (CAUTION) BE SURE YOU DO NOT CAUSE A SHORT. Check reading lamps in rear view mirror and others like trunk not fully latched. Stand and look into car in darkened garage or outside at night. Do not touch car when you approach it, just look inside through closed door windows.

Hi, I have been following your build progress for a long time. I love my 89 TC and love to drive it. Yes, I have changed some things like installing a 5 speed trans and removing the Teves ABS system, making this a useful and drivable car getting 30+ MPG. I realize you are a lot younger than myself and love to work on your car. I hope you get all that work done this year so we can all see it complete.

If you want to talk about it, read your mail, top right of the screen.

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Arizona Parts www.arizonaparts.com

Hi sunny, from what you have written above, I would suspect the relay contacts are stick together or else the 3 way switch which is screwed into the hydraulic assembly (master cylinder) is stuck in the ‘pump on’ position which therefore activates that relay. Try disconnecting the wire connector at the 3 way switch and see if that deactivates the relay and the draw on the battery.

Decent price will be the problem. My son had his 1963 Plymouth Belvedere repainted by a quality shop, that removed ALL items that covered any painted part of the body. My son paid somewhere around $8,700 and that was about 15 years ago. The good thing is that the car still looks as good as the day it was painted. Since you want a yellow car painted black, EVERYTHING WILL HAVE TO COME OFF including , WELL......."EVERYTHING!" I'm afraid it will cost you several times what you are considering paying for the whole car in the first place.

Did you remove the cover on the motor assembly and remove the old broken part of the mast track?

“.. everything works, perfect condition, always! garaged...” PERFECT? 17, 22, 35, all indicate cooling system issues. 17 is no doubt a BROKEN thermostat, which is common on the 3L. I would say, replace thermostat with a STANT 195 degree thermostat, clear the codes run the engine until hot. If fan does not come on, the fan relay is likely the problem. Maybe caused by defective fan motor. The 22 code is likely from having the engine running with coolant temperature sensor disconnected, the sensor rarely fails. You know you’ll get a code 12 when retesting, let us know what else shows. That I’d IF you go so far as to bite on this one.

Performance Products for FWD Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, Shelby Engine & Tranny Mounts! Yes, they have what you are looking for under Engine & Tranny Mounts.

That is MOPAR part # 4448455 Bracket I would say that every TC with the 4 cylinder engine has a bracket isolator that looks like this. My 280K+ TC still has the original one. They all end up looking like that. I have never even thought about replacing mine.

I do have one, BRAND NEW. Have been hoarding it for my TC, but I’ll let it go for $46.20 + shipping. If you want a better look, I’ll take it out of the bag.

I’ll keep an eye out.

Currently there are 4 white 3.0L TCs for sale in the current TC America newsletter and one 3.0L Smoke Quartz colored.