Hemi Dude

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About Hemi Dude

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  • Birthday 10/17/1939

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    Male
  • Location:
    Fort Mohave, AZ TCA Member #1545

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  • Biography
    52 years as a Chrysler product mechanic up to Service Manager at several Dealers. 22 years as private repair shop owner and operator for repair of MOPAR products.

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  1. If you read what I wrote May 16 2012 (above) and suspect this is the problem, PM me
  2. Having taken a look at what RockAuto is listing for the 1989 TC, most engine parts are for the common block 4 cyl. engine. For you with the 'early block' check closely with "original equipment" part numbers to see if the part will fit your car. I have purchased parts from them for years, they have good stuff to sell, just be sure it fits.
  3. “Unable to bleed brakes” OK! To begin with, prepare to bleed the rear brake calipers first. That means, remove both rear wheels in order to access the bleeder fittings. Be sure you can loosen them both. Have a hose connected to the right side bleeder fitting and a catch pan on the floor beneath it. You should remove ALL OLD brake fluid from the reservoir with some sort of device such as a turkey baster. Fill the reservoir to the top with NEW, CLEAN DOT3 brake fluid. Now you are ready to proceed. Have an assistant sit in the car while you do the bleeding. Have helper turn the ignition to the ON/RUN position and hold light pressure on the brake pedal. Helper is to hold foot on brake pedal lightly, NOT push it to the floor. The pump will come on and push the fluid in a steady stream as you open the bleeder and run until YOU shut it off by closing the bleeder. YOU open the bleeder and allow the old brake fluid to drain into the catch pan until you see the clean fluid appear, then shut off the fitting after a moment of clear fluid flowing. Have helper lift foot from brake pedal. BE SURE THERE IS SUFFICIENT BRAKE FLUID IN RESERVOIR. Move to left rear caliper, bleed in the same way. It should flow clear more quickly compared to the right side. For the front calipers, bleeding process is done as you would with standard brake system. Do right front first, then the left. This can be done with ignition on or off. I prefer ’off’ myself. Be sure that reservoir does NOT run dry. In the end, verify that the reservoir fluid level is between the arrows after the brake pedal has been pumped 30 times WITH THE IGNITION OFF. This process is for a normally operating system without any brake line blockage. If this doesn’t work for you, let us know what the problem was that you experienced.
  4. If you provide some clue as to the problem you are experiencing, we could be if greater assistance.
  5. For those who need an accumulator, I endorse this statement and the purchase of such an accumulator.
  6. Now we know where those 2 identical TCs in the salvage yard came from. Congrats on deleting your ‘stuff’ on the TC pages.
  7. As I suggested, "HAVE NO MERCY!" You got it off and a new one on. Congratulations!!! In your question, you mean that the level has fallen from the FULL arrow, down to the DO NOT area on the reservoir. THAT IS NORMAL when the system is pressured up.
  8. Well, I guess I got to ask you, "Just how big is your tool?" I'm not talking about some short 9 1/2" job. I've got one 16 1/2" that I use on tough jobs. Guys, 🤣 we are talking about 'water-pump pliers' here!!! The main point when you are working on some stubborn part, bolt or nut "HAVE NO MERCY!" If you want it to come off, MAKE IT!
  9. I have that belt NEW in a Goodyear number. Send me a PM. This is new stock, not NOS.
  10. "I am now wondering about the pinstripe color - " If I were to paint mine Smoke Quartz, I would use GOLD pinstripe.
  11. I WOULD NOT DO THAT! Theoretically it would energize the system and run the pump continuously, IT WOULD NOT SHUT OFF, I suspect. Install it and let us know the result. Buy that accumulator above, if still available.
  12. There is likely a special socket, but you can ‘break it loose’ with a pair of “water-pump pliers. Be sure that the system is pressured DOWN, even though the system has been inoperative, you did manage to power up the pump! Once it is loose and unplugged, just unscrew it. Screw in the new one snugly, plug it in and the system should power up when you turn on the ignition. Make sure you have no leaks. Clean all spilled brake fluid with a water rinse and blow away residual water with compressed air.
  13. Last Sunday I wrote "I would suspect the pressure switch first, the ABS controller last." Glad you found that to be the cause, the Chrysler part # is 4464005. It appears that GM# 25530882 is the correct part you need.
  14. That TC which I sent a photo of in the SUBJECT line "THINKING ABOUT PAINTING MY 90 5 SPEES" has been converted to a 3.0L with a 5 speed. I drove it on Interstate 40, real fun to drive.
  15. Time is running out on the ULTIMATE FIX See our ABS replacement article Not because the instructions will go away, but your salvage yard stock is depleting.