Hemi Dude

You may still be able to buy the switch, Chrysler # 4464005 / GM# 25530882. The last time I bought one was in 2001 at a Buick dealer for $82.67

I can certainly agree with the info Reaper1 provided. My additional comments are these. I have 2 cars with turbo engines, one is my 8 valve 1989 TC and the other one in my 1985 Laser which has an '89 engine block from another TC, but with the Mitsubishi turbo. Both are 5 speed transaxle cars and the DIFFERENCE IS ENORMOUS. The '89 TC with the Garrett is difficult coming off the line. Considerable revs needed if you don't want a stumble and the boost is not really felt until 2500 RPM. Then it pulls like gangbusters. It has a Daytona Shelby SMEC as well. It is also not geared as low as the Laser which has a Getrag transaxle from a 16V TC, but with larger diameter 16" radials. The Laser has an engine I built myself whereas the TC has the factory stock early 2.2L. The Laser engine is a common block so it could AND DID accept a 2.5L crank and pistons. The pistons are the higher compression pistons used in the normaly aspirated 2.5L TBI engine. Beyond that nothing more than a stock Mitsubishi turbo. This car is fun to drive because it has no problem spinning the tires from the line and is responsive as a quarter horse. On the upper end, it depends on how far you want to go, it falls off a little more but there is always a higher gear. Top end, I haven't been there but well over 115. Both cars are driven as regular street cars and I don't race either. The thing is, in day to day driving in traffic, no effort is needed in driving the Laser where with the TC, I have to be constantly aware that it has nothing to give performance wise in normal traffic, unless I downshift, whereas the Laser has plenty of torque even from much lower RPM. They are really like day (Laser) and night (TC). You may ask why I don't do anything about the TC, well, it is only rarely driven these days, I am retired from my shop 7 years now so no real good facilities to do anything. I am tempted to swap engines between the 2 but that is a lot of effort as well and should have been done 15 years ago. The next thing, at 79, will likely be selling the TC.

Sorry, I'm old-school. I'm not up on G11 coolant. Generally, a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol antifreeze and water is all you need. The water should be as mineral free as possible. The modern day amber colored coolant, some times called extended mile coolant will also work just fine in your TC. I use it in my engines. I just looked up the Prestone brand G-05, 5 year/ 150,000 mile coolant. Is that the type of antifreeze you are asking about?

? ? I've always been told "I'm not exactly PC" I guess this proves it.

You really wouldn't want this Plumber / Munk working on your TC. Watch it again and you will see why, if you are observant.

Yes, it could be the pressure switch. I doubt you have access to the brake pressure gauge shown in the factory shop manual, MST-6163 & adaptor 6244, that would tell you the hydraulic pressure in the system. If a pressure of between 2320 and 2755 lb is not built up, the pump motor will not turn off. REPLACE the pressure switch.

I was impressed by your writeup of the car on eBay. You have a nice car there, needing a few minor 'fixes'. Hope you find a good home for it. I have a red one also, as you can see.

There is one Phillips head screw on each of the 4 plastic track covers. Remove them, then 2 13 mm headed bolts at the front of the seat track mechanism and 2 nuts at the rear.

You need to repair the back side of the panel that the switches are mounted to. There is NO PROBLEM with the switches themselves. Anybody have a photo of the backside of the switch panel? Put it up so 'beardog49' can see it.

Since the switches for the seats are mounted with screws from the inside of the console, you will have to remove some portions of the console. Right? I suspect that the switches are loose, that DOES NOT MEAN that the switch is broken, just the mounting tabs that the switch is attached to. Now tell us what is really wrong and maybe we can help.

Something I found on RockAuto which you should all take a look at if you need to do electrical repairs. The DORMAN 85665 Fuse Holder - Blade Style; 12 Gauge w/o Cap looks most promising for the ABS circuit repair. WVE/AIRTEX/WELLS 6G1030 {#88922375, FH1} Flat Type (ATO) Inline Fuse Holder -- 30 Amp (Includes Fuse) Two 4` leads. Info $4.67 Add to Cart BUSSMANN HHX MAXI-FUSE® In-line holder, fuse holder with cover, 20-60 amps, # 6 lead wire $5.49 Add to Cart DORMAN 85665 Fuse Holder - Blade Style; 12 Gauge w/o Cap Info $1.46 Add to Cart DORMAN 84938 Fuse Holder - Blade Style; 16 Gauge - up to 20 Amps Info $1.61 Add to Cart DORMAN 84939 Fuse Holder - Blade Style; 14 Gauge Waterproof Info $1.71 Add to Cart DORMAN 85670 Fuse Holder - Blade Style; Mini Style Info $3.68 Add to Cart

#1, Do you have a Factory Shop Manual for your TC? #2, Try listening with a stethoscope or a long screw driver, to the handle end, at your ear to locate the component that is "humming". #3, Can't diagnose a vibration from here. #4, The fluid level is higher due to the fact that the old accumulator may have filled completely with brake fluid before the pump was turned off, whereas the new one fills only partially since the pressure on the diaphragm with the nitrogen behind it attains the required hydraulic pressure required sooner in order to turn off the pump. With the old accumulator, you actually had NO back-up pressure available to operate the ABS on/off pulses whereas now you do. It would be a good idea to bleed the entire system, replacing all the brake fluid with new DOT3 brake fluid from a sealed container. You would need at least 1 quart container of brake fluid.

Is this a 'Common-Block 2.2 or the early style that has a fuel pump cover plate on the forward side of the block next to the water pump adaptor? I do have various new and used lower timing belt covers.

We can all wait until he has a chance to check it out further. The SMELL TEST is the simplest, quickest and requires no tools or equipment except a NOSE.