Hemi Dude

Get hold of AVAutoParts who is parting out a TC. Newbie

OK mytc05 now that you see a picture of the assembly, just remove the small retaining nut which holds the cover on (CAREFULLY) and look for any broken piece from the original mast 'CORD'. Remove the broken part and reload your new mast. Needless to say, you need to remove the replacement mast assembly first.

6.5” Ceiling Wall Mount Speakers - Pair of 2-Way Midbass Woofer Speaker 70v Transformer 1” Titanium Dome Tweeter Flush Design w/ 65Hz-22kHz Frequency Response & 250 Watts Peak - Pyle PDIC60T $60.98 for the pair. At AMAZON.COM

Just one short question here; Are you the writer of the articles on Allpar.com who tells the stories about his grandfather that had a Chrysler dealership back in the 1950 - 60's? I sure enjoy reading them as I began as a mechanic in a DeSoto - Plymouth dealer in 1959. I have owned MOPARS all my life starting with a 1948 Dodge 4 door sedan. This car is one I use to service for its owner, John Schneider.

Well, you got to take the cover off, you will likely find part of the old track inside. Make believe you are a brain surgeon!!! Take the whole thing out of the trunk and lay it on it's side. I can't come and do it for you. This is the challenge of owning a TC. You get to be the doctor, OR you end up paying a lot of money for LABOR.

If the radiator cooling fan is not working, remember the fan relay? Well, anyway, if the condenser begins to get too hot, the A/C system cannot function properly. Have you checked to see that the fan comes on every time the compressor clutch is engaged?

A question for those who live where it rains. That is so rare here in the Mohave Valley AZ, furthermore, my TC is always garaged and only sees rain if I'm on a trip cross country.

If there are members who have speakers for sale, USED speakers, and they know they are good, you might try them, if the price is not too high. It seems there are some who require both arm$ and leg$ for part$, unfortunately we live in this capitalistic world where the greed for money is overwhelming! Hemi...

!!!!!!!! DISREGARD THE 2 “foreigners” that replied above. THEY DO NOT UNDERSTAND THE BRAKE CALIPERS ON OUR ‘TC by MASERATI’ automobiles!!!!!! OK pal, here’s the scoop. At this point you will want the KEY OFF! In order to RETRACT the piston into the caliper, you remove the aforementioned PLUG in the center, backside of the caliper, then insert a correct size ‘metric’ Allen wrench. I think it is 4mm or 5mm. Once the proper Allen wrench is inserted and engaged inside the the caliper, rotate the Allen wrench in a counter-clockwise direction until the piston is fully retracted. Now you can finish the brake pad replacement and caliper installation. Once assembled, you MUST adjust the brake pads. BEFORE anything else, loosen the tension on the parking brake cable by backing off on the 13mm adjustment nut for the cable adjustment. THEN be sure the parking brake arm on the caliper is fully released and able to move freely! ADJUST the brake pad clearance by rotating the Allen wrench clockwise until all clearance is taken up and the brake rotor is unmovable. NOW rotate the Allen wrench counter-clockwise until the rotor rotates with just a little drag. Remove the Allen wrench and reinstall the plug securely. Repeat the entire process on the other rear caliper. WHEN BOTH CALIPERS ARE ADJUSTED, you may bleed the brake fluid if you plan to. When you are done, check brake pedal to verify you have a good pedal, this with the ABS pressure pumped up, KEY ON. If it feels good, it’s time to adjust the parking brake cable. You can snug up on the 13mm nut until the drag on the rotors increases, check parking brake pedal from time to time. It should lock the rear brakes at about the midpoint of its travel. One more time, VERIFY that there is not excessive drag on the rear brakes. FINALLY, you should be done. Lower the car to the ground and road test it CAREFULLY. Be sure the brake fluid is at the proper level, that there are no leaks. HOPEFULLY YOU ARE THROUGH!

Well, once again I guess I'll have to throw my 2 cents worth in here as I see no-one else jumping in: Here was my solution for the original problematic radio in my TC. This is an original radio from a somewhat later car or van, but you have to pay attention to the different mounting points on the radios. The TC's radio is rectangular, where the next generation radio looked rectangular but were with curved corners, a little more like oval. I would suggest going to a salvage yard and look for a little later OE radio. I just plugged it into the existing, original wiring connectors and it works great with the original TC amplified speakers. Your entire problem with speakers 'could' be the radio. My TC is the early version, #0766, with tons of miles on it, so I can't understand what all the fuss is all about with problems people have with these cars.

I guess you will get NO reply on this one Bob.

Here is the PS Dipstick TUBE bracket attachment screw on my wife's 94 Dodge Shadow. EASY to reach as well. Someone must have broken the mounting bracket and "mickey-moused" another one, just to make it difficult. Try finding one in the junkyard that is easy to reach, remove the 10mm screw and just PULL the dipstick tube out of the adaptor 'boot'.

THIS ONE...

But Bro, the picture is of one of our two 3.0L vehicles. There is no dipstick tube on a 2.2L.

What I don’t understand is “There is a good reason for the bolt not being in the power steering tube and that being you can't get to it.” I just opened my hood and took this picture. I am a couple days late with a picture, but this shows the ‘tube retaining screw’ right there and easy to get to. As you see, it has sheet metal penetrating threads, so anything you find with a 10mm or 3/8” screw head should work out.