Hemi Dude

Cute dog, man’s best friend... You likely have a ruptured diaphragm in the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR. That is the only way to introduce fuel into the vacuum limes.

Glenn, you wrote; "I was removing the hose from the top of the Baro Relay when I saw the bubbles and when I thought I felt no vacuum , This morning I disconnected the hose going into the Baro Relay and I had good vacuum and that in turn should feed the Map sensor? I also had vacuum off the top of Baro Relay this morning so the Map sensor is getting vacuum. The Map sensor from the 8 valve is on the 16 valve car yet so there should be no water in it, plus the 16 valve map sensor is still on the 8 valve and it runs fine so there must not be any water in it, should I take my air gun and blow into the vacuum feed line ?" NO! "This morning when I started it from cold it was back to idling up and down from 15 down to 5 RPM and the engine died a couple times. I gave it some gas up to 15 RPM for a while and the idle evened out and ran OK then. I looked for vacuum leaks and have found none so far! Hoses all look good by manifold, took connections apart behind battery and they look all right. The Map sensor code is still flashing so must still have something to do with it!! thanks Hemi for your input, Whish I never cleaned the engine!! Jazmin is my submissive Sheltie who is always by my side!" As you wrote "no" to my question about the Diagnostic Tester, EVERYTHING we can say would be just guessing. The increase and decrease of the RPM would suggest that the AIS motor is working, but if the throttle is stationary, there should not be a cause for the RPM fluctuation. So, that would lead me to thinking that the fluctuation is due to changing fuel mixture which is directly a result of MAP sensor variation. Then you write that after opening the throttle and running the engine at a steady 1500 RPM, the engine idled evenly (at whatever RPM) that might have been. That would let me lean toward the TPS. Yet there is little chance that it got water into it since it is sealed. (The problem here is that we have no input/output readings from the SMEC. Therefore no way to say anything for certain.) SO, EVERYONE, CHIME IN WITH YOUR THOUGHTS.

Glenn, notice that the vacuum 'signal' coming from the manifold, passes through the Baro Relay before it gets to the MAP Sensor, so when you wrote that you saw water bubbles when you removed the hose from the MAP sensor, be sure that the Baro Relay is clear of water as well as all the vacuum lines.

Yes. My question to you, do you have good vacuum at that hose attached at the MAP sensor? You also have the barometric relay that the vacuum passes through. Ia everything along the line in good shape? Did you clear the code 13 in the SMEC before checking again? Iis locked in until cleared. It will go away after a time, but you didn’t want to wait that long. I don’t suppose you have a diagnosis tester like a Snap-On 2500, do you? I’ll be looking for your answers.

Yes, I put up that advice 2 years ago. Just tap on the ‘Porthole Window’ It will take you to my ‘answer’

Check all the VACUUM hoses around and to & from the MAP sensor. the #13 code indicates [MAP SENSOR pneumatic circuit] #55 indicates [end of test] It is so easy to break the small, hard plastic lines. Repair with short piece of rubber vacuum hose that fits snugly, using something like carburetor spray into the piece of hose you are about to use, SO IT SLIPS ONTO THE HARD PLASTIC LINE EASILY.

You may need to loosen the 5 nuts holding the mechanism in place and move it up just a little, so that the studs can engage the pull down hooks.

Well now, you guys have arrived at the one problem area on the 16V TC engine. There are 2 ways to overcome this situation in my view. The first one will be 'MY' fix. Probably most everyone else, their last resort. When I rebuilt the engine on my Yellow 16V TC, seen and described on the AACA website which you can see and read if you click my links, I had already had sufficient experience with finding connecting rod bearings for the 16V engine that I decided for a different resolution. I decided to use a forged crankshaft from an 8 valve TC engine. This way the engine would have easily acquired bearings, both rods and mains. That also meant I had to use the HD connecting rods from an 8V engine. So far, so good. The hitch was the wrist pins on the 16V engine. The wrist pins are a smaller diameter than the wrist pins on the 8V engines. Since I wanted to use the stock 16V pistons, the wrist pin bushings in the 8V rods had to have a smaller inside diameter for the 16V pistons wrist pins. This was simply accomplished by my machine shop. Raw stock can be acquired to fit the rod's small end inside diameter and can then be machined to the proper tolerances for the smaller wrist pins. So now all the parts fit together and in this configuration, the engine was built. The car and engine are still running fine though at least 3 different owners have owned that TC since me. In my view, that is the better way to rebuild this engine for normal driving and it does not affect the performance in any way. The story of finding the correct rod bearings for the 16V TC engine, for another time.

Please NOTE: Used “Complete setup came out of a running and driving 1993 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. Mileage unknown. ”

Glenn, do you have a 1963 or 64 Plymouth 4 door under that cover? Just asking.

AND, while the brakes, the ABS system, is working properly. FLUSH every drop of brake fluid from the entire system. It may be 30 years old or maybe it has been flushed along the way, BUT if you encounter brake pedal fade, slowly going to the floor, while you are sitting at a traffic light, it is TOO LATE! Replace the Accumulator and flush the system.

You do need to use a deep well 5/8" thin wall socket.

Reaper1 is right. If that 5/8” spark plug socket doesn’t fit, just try a SnapOn 3/8” drive socket. It has been some time since I had my 16 valve TC, I forgot that my spark plug didn’t fit. Be sure to use fuel hose designed for the high pressure fuel-injection. Also use proper hose clamps.