Tim Wolfe

Anyone know if someone sells new brake drums for a 1949 Mercury? Not for me, a close friend might need them for his car. Tim Wolfe timandjuliawolfe1@roadrunner.com

I had a nos switch that was my spare, a friend said he had to have one to finish his car so I sold it to him for what I had in it, and he never used it, won't sell it back. Never again!!

Would you be so kind to post some pictures of your museum?

Try Glaser Pattern & Coach works Steven Glaser Houston, Ohio Check out his web site. Does excellent work.

I will say that my pump wasn't rebuilt by the Flying Dutchman, I can't remember the name of the company-but it was in Arizona.

I sent my pump to a rebuilder out West and it lasted for less than 10 miles. Front bushing seized up on the shaft and broke the pump in half! He said I didn't put any lube in the coolant and would not repair or refund any money. On a 1930 Chrysler pump, the water/coolant doesn't get close to the front bushing. I had the packing nut bored to install a lip seal and used oilite bushings and haven't had a problem since. I did make a new shaft for the pump too so it was smooth.

Forgot to add that I would contact the mfg. tech. dept. to advise on how to use it for this purpose before buying it.

Look at Amazon for The Last Glue, I've had very good luck repairing broken tool housings with it, I used it to glue bakelite dist. cap for a 1930 Chrysler. Not a cheap glue, about $30 an ounce. How much is a new cap?

Well, I have good news! The grease was from a poor fitting outer axle seal and not the inner seals. The eight mounting holes were out of line with the center of the seal. The metal of the seal was rubbing the hub so hard that the rubber seal was pushed way up and letting the grease leak. Do not buy the pressed out sheet metal bearing housing that have a lip seal in them, buy ones turned on a lathe so everything is concentric. I was lucky enough to find a few NOS outer seals for the car so I won't have to have new housings turned. ( unless I can't get the NOS rubber seals to soften up! ) Thanks to all for the input and advice .

Thanks for the input. I was an assembly foreman before I retired. One of my departments built the clutch and driveshaft assemblies for large metal forming presses, and the gearboxes for right angle drives. I feel comfortable that I can rebuild the axle after I locate the parts. Wouldn't good prints be great !!?? Again, thanks for the input, any experience and knowledge is appreciated. A friend in the Northeast gave me the seal information.

Chrysler # 304004 Might have to wait until I remove the leaking seal and take it to a bearing company to match it up ( Bearings Inc. )

Anyone know of a replacement seal? I've got to start reading what I type before I send it !!!

I plan on replacing the inner seals also. I have located some nos outer seals and a couple inner seals. The outer seals are very hard and I'll have to try to soften them. Anyone a replacement seal for a National Seal # 5156 or Victor # 26031, they replaced the Chrysler inner seal. I want to use modern inner seals if I can find them. I will be replacing the brake linings too.

Thanks John and dep5. The one's that dep5 made look just like the ones I'm having quoted at the machine shop. I texted the people John mentioned.

Haven't been able to find new outer axle seals for our model 70 coupe, so I'm having some seal housings made at a local machine shop. Mine leaked and ruined the brake linings on the real axle. I had a set of reproduction seals on the car and the mounting holes were out of line with the center of the modern seal and caused them to leak. Chrysler part number for original seals 304009 Victor seal # 26031. Anyone else have the same problem?