no1parfive

I do appreciate the info you provided and that info will always retain its value. I decided to just replace the Hall plate because I already had a new one and it takes just a couple of minutes to replace it, however, when I disconnected the two electrical connectors, one of the connectors was severely corroded, after cleaning out the corrosion, I reconnected the wires, reassembled the distributor, started the engine and ran it at idle speed for about ten minutes at idle speed, no hiccups occurred, I then drove it around for about twenty minutes, no hiccups occurred. So, I assume the problem was caused by a corroded connector. Again, I appreciate all of your valuable info and interest.

When I say "hiccup" I'm referring to a momentary drop in RPM, occurring at about ten to fifteen second intervals, while driving or idling.

Thanks Hemi, I was kind of thinking about the hall plate as the possible problem, will replace it and go from there.

Have 89" TC, 4-cyl, 2.2L engine, engine suddenly started to "hiccup" while driving, and also while idling. Per my previous posts, I had to remove cylinder head and associated parts to replace gaskets, and, retime the engine. Engine ran fine for a couple of weeks and suddenly started to hiccup while running and idling, the hiccups were about 8 to 10 seconds apart. Any ideas or suggestions as to the cause of this problem would be appreciated.

TC back up and running fine......problem was engine became untimed for some reason, during head removal, I took special care to keep tension on timing belt as specified by my blue book, but somehow my intermediate sprocket rotated about a quarter-turn counterclockwise, where the notch was not lined up with the crankshaft mark when crankshaft was properly positioned. After realigning the intermediate sprocket and putting everything back together, my engine started immediately. Want to thank everyone who had an input on this issue, especially Hemi Dude. Solving this problem was indeed a challenge, but with the help of members like you guys, we got it done. With my car being 34 years old (1989), I'm just wondering what's next.............LOL...... with

Referencing previous posts: I overlooked an item relating to my attempted engine starts, which was, while the engine is turning over, I can hear a hissing sound, similar to compressed air escaping from an air tank, the sound isn't very loud, but is definitely detectable, the sound stops when the engine starting is stopped. I'm now wondering if I installed my cylinder head improperly, or a foreign object is lodged between the head and the block, preventing a complete sealing, which could possibly be causing the very low compression readings (about half of what they should be) on all cylinders. Anyway, wanted to share this bit of information with everyone.........all opinions and speculations would be appreciated.

Made compression test while trying to start engine, as you suggested, cylinders 1, 3, 4 read about 45 psi, cylinder 2 read about 50 psi, my blue service manual says normal psi is between 100 to 125 psi, I'm now wondering why my readings are so low, which I assume would not allow the engine to start. I installed a new head gasket and torqued the head bolts per the service manual. Wil now check engine timing.

Plug wires are correctly placed.....as it relates to proper timing, engine must be running (according to blue service manual) to check for proper timing using a timing light........as it relates to testing for proper compression, the same applies. engine must be running to check this.......

Per my previous posts, I still can't get my engine to start, will turn over fine, but not start. Here is a brief history of my situation: I have an 89 TC, 4-cyl, 8-valve engine, I removed the cylinder head (with attached intake/exhaust manifold and turbocharger) in order to replace the turbocharger gasket, which had burned out due to loose, and missing, mounting bolts. After reassembly, and thoroughly checking that everything was properly reconnected and mounted, I attempted to start it, with no success. I followed my blue service manual instructions precisely, especially as it relates to the cam shaft sprocket, so that engine timing would be maintained. I also made a spark check, fuel supply check (to the fuel rail) and all was ok, also tried using starter fluid, with no success. So, I'm at a lost as to why my engine will turn over but not start. I'm wondering if my fuel injectors are functioning properly, I checked the electrical connection plug (which I had to disconnect to remove the head) with my tester and all seemed ok (continuity test). I exhausted all of my ideas as to the problem, and would like any and all suggestions as to what possibly could be causing my problem........

I had a similar problem but with the driver side rear window, I made basically the same troubleshooting process that you did with no results. On a hunch, I took a skinny metal rod, slid it down the side of the window to the motor, banged the motor 3,4 times, and low and behold it started working properly, and has worked fine ever since. My thought was that maybe the motor brushes (if so constructed) stopped making good contact with the commutator, and a little jarring with the pole reconnected the brushes with the commutator, this is basically my best guess..........

Will do this, will let you know how it went........................Sprayed carb cleaner into throttle body, also tried starting fluid, still no starting or burping........as it relates to crank/cam timing, during removal of head, I followed exactly the directions as shown on page 9-17, fig-2, using my engine hoist, kept tension on cam sprocket and sprocket in place on timing belt, also, cam was kept in place as well as engine crankshaft. Had no problems with removing cam sprocket or reinstalling same, sprocket realigned perfectly with cam spline. Also, the distributor was never touched during maintenance, only the spark plug leads were disconnected from the plugs. Prior to the maintenance, the engine was running fine except for the blown turbo gasket making a loud noise. My thought process had me wondering about the distributor becoming untimed, if that's the probable cause, if it was never touched. Also, the same thought process applies to the camshaft becoming untimed if the sprocket was removed and reinstalled per the manual, which I did and as previously explained. Anyway, I again appreciate all your help with this very irritating problem. I will be trying to check camshaft and distributor timing per the blue book, looks like it's going to be a challenge.

Referencing previous posts, I have finally completed the arduous task of removing, and reinstalling, the cylinder head, manifolds, and turbo in order to replace the damaged turbo gasket. After doing this, I attempted to start my engine, it would turn over ok but not start. I made a spark check and it was good, checked fuel input at fuel line connection to fuel rail, it was good (good flow of fuel during starting attempt). I'm now wondering if my fuel injectors not functioning is the problem. The injector wiring harness was disconnected (plug) during maintenance but was reconnected, and physically checked to ensure a tight connection. My blue service manual says the SMEC controls the injectors, so I hope this is not the problem. Anyway, will continue to troubleshoot and hopefully find the problem. All help, from all sources, would be appreciated.

Have fabricated my gasket using exhaust system gasket material purchased from autozone, it looks to be the same material as my damaged gasket, again, I appreciate the help.

Appreciate all the help and the pics, I have removed the head, manifold, and turbo as one unit, turbo was missing two of four nuts, the other two was loose, to the point where I could actually shake the turbo. The turbo gasket was missing about one-third of it's gasket material, looked as though it burned away. I assume this was causing my original problem of a loud hissing from the back of my engine when started. I have yet to find a turbo gasket, so I'm now going to make my own using exhaust system gasket material from AutoZone, the material appears to be the same as in my damaged gasket. Anyway, thanks again for all the help. zon

Referencing previous posts, I finally was able to remove my cylinder head, intake/exhaust manifold, and turbocharger as one unit. My problem with the removal was I had not disconnected the turbo coolant supply tube, which was well hidden under the turbocharger. Anyway, after the removal, I discovered that two of the four nuts used to secure the turbo to the manifold was missing, and the other two were loose, to the point that I could physically shake the turbo. After removing the turbo from the manifold, I discovered that the turbo gasket was missing about one third of the gasket material, which I assumed had been burned away, allowing exhaust gas to escape. I'm also assuming this was the cause of my original problem, which was a loud hissing noise coming from the back of my engine when started. I'm now trying to find a source to acquire a new turbocharger gasket. I previously ordered, and have received, a set of engine gaskets from RockAuto, but the turbo gasket was not included. So, I'm now searching for a turbo gasket. Any and all help would be appreciated in my search.