telriv

Gary, In the pic they appear to be the same size of1/4" Guess you can't always depends on pics for some things. Just remember it has to be fairly snug. Anything else I maybe able to help you with just let me know. Tom T.

Chris, Yes the PCV pipe works well for the coiling only 2 coils is plenty. Just mount it in the rear of the left cylinder head like most do, including myself. IF you need suggestions on removing the plug on the head just let me know. Tom T.

Chris, Another thing I just thought about. What do you rely on when you have the heater control valve in the off position??? NO coolant flows with the valve off & the temp. gauge will not read actual coolant temp.

Chris, You could. I myself have NEVER done one that way. Do yourself a favor & DON"T use the plastic tubing that's normally supplied with the gauge. Use copper tubing that's readily available in most auto parts stores. Insulate the lines going into the car, at least inside the car, by slipping a piece of hose over the oil line & then split a rubber hose over the temp. line to help from transferring engine noise into the car, AND before going through the firewall make a couple turns in the lines going into the car (like a brake line coming out of the master cylinder going to the frame) to take up the flex that happens when you accelerate or decelerate to help with flex so that a few years from now the temp. gauge stops working or all of a sudden you have NO oil pressure because the line broke outside. IF your very alert you may see smoke coming from under the hood or behind you in clouds of smoke . You must remember that the body, frame & engine are ALL separate & that are in constant flex & motion independently of each other. I don't know if you have already or not installed fusible links to protect our cars from burning. I did a write up about it. Do a search & you should be able to find it. It was published in one of the Riviews in the past. Tom T.

demon452, Has anyone replied through a pm as of now??? Tom T.

PWB & diaztec, Why go through ALL the hassles & just get one of MY RE-BUILT FAST RATIO STEERING BOXES. WHY DRIVE YOURSELF CRAZY WITH ADDITIONAL COSTS YOU DIDN'T EXPECT OR THE HASSLES OF A JUNK YARD BOX OF QUESTIONABLE QUALITY!!!! I have already done ALL the research needed for our BIG CARS. All the guess work has been done & taken already. Why not take advantage of my love for these cars. They are a fast ratio 2.5 turns lock-lock & in our RIV's. & are a 12.5-1 ratio. The internal stops are EXACTLY THE SAME AS STOCK & WILL NOT COMPROMISE TURNING RADIUS!!!! Yeah Chip, I FIGURED IT OUT ALREADY SO GET OFF MY BACK!!!! MY rebuilt boxes are about 1/2 the cost or less of some of the bigger company's steering boxes. They are AN EXACT, CORRECT "808" BIG CAR BOLT-IN STEERING BOX JUST LIKE GM DESIGNED THEM TO BE. NO ADAPTERS OR ANYTHING ELSE OR SPECIALTY PARTS NEEDED. IF you are willing to take the chance I know you'll be happy. So FAR there have been no COMPLAINTS. They are $450.00 plus shipping costs. Tom T. P.S.- I have a '65 RIV. fast ratio box at 3 turns lock-lock. IF anyone is interested for $350.00 plus shipping costs & a return core.

Gary, The ball stud can be removed from the throttle arm. Then install the replacement stud into the throttle arm & secure it with washers on either side to make a fairly snug/wobble free installation & install a new cotter pin. OR, you could install the replacement chain/stud into the throttle arm & check to see how it all lines up. Use some washers to take up slack as needed on one side or the other. Then re-thread the stud. Looks like the re-thread will be the same size as the ball stud nut from the ball stud. Tom T.

Frenchy51, Left & right strut rod/bars are the same. You could get ANY GOOD stalk. Just put the plastic part in water while holding the stalk & let it sit in the non boiling water to SLIGHTLY warm/soften the plastic & it will slip right off. Do the same for the other. Do the replacement 1st. Then do yours & you should be able to slip it off & put it on the new stalk WITHOUT additional heating. Tom T.

1st. you could use the plug in the left rear of the left head. Then you would still retain the light. 2nd. you could plumb into where the oil pressure sender switch is located on the R/R of the block just above the oil filter AND still retain the light. 3rd. it depends on if your using an amp gauge or a voltage gauge. Amp gauges aren't the norm any longer. Used to be because they were at the time the only type available. AND, because of the required H/Duty wiring needed that gave the possibility of shorting out & MANY other problems. A voltage gauge is the preferred way to do this today & MUCH easier to install. Are the temp. & oil gauges electrical or mechanical??? Electric may be easier, but as far as I'm concerned is a waste of time as your relying on electricity which isn't always consistent. AND, depends on too many other variable factors beyond your control. In that case you might as well just rely on the lights you already have & just eliminate the hassle. Of course I prefer mechanical gauges. Can you tell??? JUST MY opinion. Tom T.

Gary, Can you send pictures of that on both ends??? AND, where it hooks up to the carb??? WE gotta figure out something here. Tom T.

Bill, Now what are you starting up a NEW division of the grammar POLICE??? Now we have to worry bout the heater hose police??? What's next???? Tom T.

Gary, Me again. That piece of chain coming out of the diaphragm DOES come out. I don't remember how it comes apart. Let me look in a chassis manual. It looks like in the book that that piece of chain is REMOVABLE. Maybe IF you have a chassis manual you can figure it out OR someone who has already performed this operation can post. Tom M??? Tom T.

Gary, So the chain hooks up to the diaphragm & the other end is what attaches to the Carb. linkage correct??? ALL you need to do is get one of those connectors that attaches to pens so they can't be stolen & put both pieces back together again. That should do it. IF it doesn't last you know how to fix it now. Tom T.

Another thing that has happened. The green wires at the horns, IF you have power, they could be dirty or corroded. Remove the wire & clean the spade on the horn & ALSO clean the green wire connector. Apply silicone DI-electric grease on the horn spade & the green wire. Tom T.

Gary, Let's see the COMPLETE chain OR the other end. Kinda wrap it in a circle. Tom T.

I meant to say 5/8ths & 3/4qtrs. NOT 3/8ths. Should do better editing myself!!!!

BrianB, What they are talking about is the 600 series of boxes that are for the smaller A-Body GM cars. Which requires adapters, hoses & rag joints. Like is said in there advertising they CAN rebuild YOUR box at extra cost, which is more than I sell mine for. AS you've read, mine are an "808" unit that's EXACTLY like what you have now, a bolt-in swap. NO adapters, hoses OR anything special needed. I have the boxes IN STOCK. Tom T.

Clark's Corvair Parts in Mass. I was involved with the tray sending them a prototype tray I received. I even went as far as cutting out the complete metal from a pretty rotted out '64 Riv. to help them along the way. AFTER a few attempts they got it right. This was at least 15-18 yrs, ago. It ONLY comes complete, meaning the vinyl also. Talk to Mark or Anna. Tom T.

Zimm63, Go to an auto parts store & see if they carry a 5/8ths. & 3/8ths. heater hoses with the wire inside. You can bend them in ANY direction & they won't kink when going around tight bends & WON'T collapse. I used them on my '64 & have been on my car for at LEAST 35+ yrs. I don't know if they are available any longer. Tom T.

After saying all that it appears it was WELL taken care of. Hopefully the previous owner has done the proper service so you don't need to do any major servicing in the future. GOOD LUCK!!! Tom T.

Also forgot to add you should have group #27 battery which is 12" long IF it's a top post battery.

Try a tray from NAPA or other parts stores. They are universal, but easier than trying to fix what you have. Just adapt as nec.

I think it looks more like the picture of the Turbinater's whitewall with a little more black area closer to the wheel rim like Bernie's picture. Try Cooper's. Tom T.

Brian, I'll assume your talking about the trim piece above the trunk lid & below the rear window. If that's the one your talking about look under the trunk & below the rear window on the inside. You will see some quick nuts/pal nuts just remove them. You will see some sealer. DON"T FORGET to install new sealer called "dom dom"" OR "strip caulk" available at just about ANY auto parts/body shop supply store. Tom T.

Mice, Glad I could help & send you in the right direction BEFORE you started to drive yourself CRAZY!!!! Tom T.