a sell

Thanks Mike. She is maintaining her membership in the Durant club. There is 2 Durants, and 1 DeVaux there and MANY parts. We went to the Durant national meet in Modesto last year with her. Since the Durant was not ready we asked to take the 29 Chev convertible Sedan. They figured that since Billy Durant had started Chevrolet it would be fine, and they also said we were welcome even if we did not bring an old car. I stayed toward the back so as to not distract from the featured group. There were two couples from Australia, and one from Canada. We all had a great time. The San Francisco group put on a WONDERFUL meet. With great tours. We even had lunch with the Pharohs on Sunday. That was the car club in the movie American Graffiti.

Work is progressing and it will be completed soon. It has been a scramble to find parts. We robbed parts off of several other cars, and manufactured others. The 6-14 is very similar but smaller, and has some of the same body parts. Fortunately there were two there in pieces. A part of the body was welded together poorly at the factory. That was corrected. All of the wood has been replaced. It was more rotten than anticipated. Recently we tracked down some of the last parts. A trunk for the rack, the correct wiper motor, some headlioght parts, and a full set of dash control cables that had eluded us. I think it will be at the Forest Grove concours this year. He was a judge out there for many years. As a display only I would like to take the low mileage Willies 8 out there as well, and let the body man take the credit for the exceptional work he has done on the Durant. According to the Durant roster there are only 3 of these model registered in the world. This is the only coupe. Not like the picture above it has dual sidemounts and side lights. Most people only get to look at these rare old cars, I actually get to touch them. For this one I might have to get a pair of white gloves.

Have you checked with Roberts Motors? They sprcialize in some early mopar parts. If not send me a pm.

So Ted what did you find out?

Those are usually easy transmissions to work on. Contact Portland Transmission and purchase a "small parts kit" It will include all the needle bearings, seals, and bushings to rebuild that trans.

You might check in with Skip Geaar over in Eagle point. He rebuilds Carter CRJ -08 and the later models like the 150 use the same accelerator bracket.

Does the coil type you are looking for have a key switch on one end like the 6-14 Durant, or is it different?

Did you find your pistons? Is Bud saying that they are all the same size?

The Filling Station in Lebanon OR caries two different models. One is for a closed car, and one is for an open touring. The quality is usually quite good but check out how they mount so as to make sure it will work for your car. If your windshield stanchions are round you will probably have to look elsewhere, or make your own.

You usually will know when it is drawing gas from the tank. The engine will run smoother. When the vacuum tank is full and float releases - it will direct the vacuum to vent. This creates a small vacuum leak and the engine will run a little rough. This is normal. While helping a friend diagnose his vacuum tank I installed a section of clear hose in the inlet piping from the gas tank. This was on an original low milage inline 8 that ran very smooth. It was interesting actually "seeing" the process as the tank worked so its actions were no longer such a mystery.

So did you find a supplier of the original internally notched copper crush washers? I need 4 of them for the banjo nuts. Also looking for original style LONG bleeder screws. 28 Model 72 with first series Wagner Lockheed brakes I was thinking of making a set of the washers out of some pre 1982 copper pennies.

If someone would like a visual confirmation on this car let me know. We live about 20 miles away. a sell

Keiser31 is correct. I sold Ray H a pair of those 25/26 headlights awhile back that came in some 4 cylinder parts I bought. Still had the original paint on them. He buys and sells parts all the time, you could call him in the morning to see if he has or has not sold them. Vancouver WA

Have not seen it yet, will try to get out there next week and get some pictures.

Do you know the dimensions of the rods you are looking for? Length, pin, and journal diameters? Bearing width?

I ran into a fellow about a month ago who has a 26? Graham he would like to sell. He was offering it to a hot rodder friend of mine. I have not seen the car, but would like to go at least see it. It belonged to his father and is supposed to be all there. Sounds like a 4 cylinder coach. Is this the same as a Dodge fast four? And if it is called a fast four how fast is that - 45 mph, or so? What would be the approximate value of an unrestored car like this one? Any special redeeming features? How available are parts?

In the late 70s my brother showed me the remains of a Model T, or a Model A sedan that was in the woods near Prince George. It had nickle plated brass Robertson screws. I think I got one or two out of it. At that time he thought they were introduced in the 30s and speculated they were a repair, but where the screws were sure looked original.

Hello Bob, The question you have to figure out is if your car was a Fisher body, or a Hayes body. Our 28 model 72 golf club coupe was made by Fisher. There are some parts that look like they would interchange with a Buick, or Olds. If it is a Fisher - being a 50 I would think it should be similar to a 27, or 28 Chev. I have a 28 Chev door I have no use for. If you can e-mail me a picture with some pretty close diminsions I can compare it to those hinges. Do these screw into a plate in the door, and wood in the body hinge post?

I have inspected, and recharged fire extinguishers for about 12 years now. I tell people to get a good quality extinguisher with a METAL top and an actual GAUGE. It is not that much more money and you, your family, and your property depend on it. Most people after explaining the realities of a fire, GET the idea. But pretty soon their cheap side sets in and they buy the cheapest piece of crap they can find. The other part of the equation is that it is a neccesary ugly. That means that if you or someone else have to look for it - its useless. Get at least a 5 lb extinguisher, MOUNT it on the wall near the entry so it is accesable. By the time they get there, the only thing the fire department will be able to do is hopefully save your neighbors house. Your home will be uninhabitable, and maybe even unsaveable. A whole lot of heartache and regrets. The exts offered by the big box stores are made in CHEENA and are also junk. They can not be serviced and parts are not available in this country. We carry halon, or halotron in our old cars. The ABC type extinguishers are extremely corrosive.

Thank you Herm, yes I have Chevrolet 4 cylinder connecting rods. That is what I am trying to get away from. Someone posted that they thought Durant, or Star 4 cylinder rods were 1/2" longer and could be easily adapted to the Chevrolet 4 with the same wrist pin diameter. I was looking to confirm this info but.....

Hello, Did not see this post earlier. 30+ members of the Columbia River Region of the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America had a nice long tour down into the Wilamette Valley today to view the fall colors. I would suggest that you visit the CRR site linked to the VCCA, and repost this request there. Many members have been in the club for 40 + years, and some may have even bought cars from Fred Bauer.

Hello Racc, I have been working on our Chrysler brakes perhaps I can help. Sounds like what you are experiencing is multiple problems. I have a couple of brief manuals regarding the external band brakes. Send me a PM and I will give you my email address. Perhaps I can help you sort some of it out.

The crank hole covers are being very nicely reproduced, or you could buy the extra spare I have. The spring is broke on it and the chrome button is missing. I'd like to get $40 + shipping.

Our coupe was registered in Idaho as well with the Fedco numbers. When we transferred it to WA state the state police asked to inspect the car. Their comment was that with today's body shop talents it "would be easy to swap out that plate or the entire dash panel" They used the engine number. At that point I did not want to point out that it is very easy to swap out an engine in one of these old cars. Hard telling what the OR DMV take on that title would be. This car was originally found in Coburg OR.

Its always interesting to see some of the running changes to these models. Our March 1928 model 72 coupe has side vents on the cowl, does not appear to be installed on your car. Is that a Hayes body or a Fisher? Ours is a Fisher bodied car. Where in OR are you?