a sell

Getting back to the original post. I have looked over this speedster several times at some local events. It is very well done. I have talked to the owner and he says it will do well over 100 mph. It has early style 4 wheel hydraulic brakes I think from a Diamond T truck. It is a beast and lives up to the name Zeus.

A friend of mine has/had a '30 6-17 Delux Coupe with the 4 speed, and the big six. He told me he thought it was the last one known of that model. Some years ago I found another 6-17 Delux Coupe on the internet but could not track down a phone number in Nebraska? for him to call. Was that just the ones in the registry or are they that rare? The predecessor of this model was listed as having a top speed of 80 mph, is that true for the 6-17 as well? We are helping his widow finish the started restoration, possibly with the thought of taking it to the Forest Grove Concours in July. I know this is a tight knit community and as this progresses there will be questions, any help will be appreciated.

I would be interested if you would like to let it go.

Looks really similar to the one on our 28 Chrysler model 72. If so it may have been outsourced from a Detroit manufacturer. Probably the same as a number of early fairly high end cars.

If you are on this site I assume you are not going to belly button the car, and are looking to possibly get into another aspect of the old car hobby. The 31 is possibly the easiest of the early Chevs to find parts for. At this point it is getting a little more difficult but not impossible to find most if not all needed parts, however they are not cheap. There are several firms that reproduce and supply QUALITY parts including the wood structural components. Of the early Chev sedans the 31 is in my opinion the most stately. It may take a little sorting out but with some patience and perseverance you will have an automobile you could pass on to your kids. They run well, and stop well if everything is in good order. Top comfortable speed is 50 to 55 mph, and will have a final drive ratio of 4.11 to 1. The last year of the 3.82 to 1 was 29. There are no synchronizers in any gear so double clutching will be required, just like your model A.

I am looking to find some replacement connecting rods for my old engine (not Ford). The originals are 2 piece connecting rods with a 1/16" spacer on each side between the cap and the rod. I am researching replacements. The original rods are 1-1/2" journal diameter X 1-7/8", wrist pin is 27/32", center to center length is 7-3/8" but could be up to 5/16" or 3/8" longer. Replaceable insert bearings might also be a plus. Can someone tell me the measurements of the model A connecting rods?

I have the chev conn rods, and 3 - 28 engines. They have 2 piece rods with a 1/16" spacer on each side between the rod and the cap. That is how the late 4 cylinder rods were made. Not very conducive to getting oil up to the upper part of the connecting rod from the cast iron dipper. Racers found one piece rods that are 1/8" longer for added compression, and the added functionality of a one piece rod. And no these rods are not being remanufactured, mainly because it does not start with the letter F Oh well, thats how it goes. As people pass all that info goes away, and more and more of these things become just so much scrap metal. After all who wants that old shit. Its OLD.

The pin length for the Chev conn rod is 3-5/16" and is clamped in the middle, floating on the ends. I do not have the info for the Star conn rod, but it should be similar.

I am looking for the application of a connecting rod. Someone thought it was Star, of unknown year. The dimensions are 7-1/2" long, Journal 1-1/2" dia X 1-7/8" long, Pin dia 27/32" I am looking to replace my Chev 4 cyl rods with these if possible. Thanks for the help.

I will look at the serial number on the inline 8 again, it was written beside the stamped serial no. with a paint pen. As for the 6 he wrote it on the top as being a Studebaker Twin Ignition Six. It is a 6 and has two spark plugs per cylinder, one on each side of the head. The distributor has twelve high energy connections. Looks like a good idea for more complete ignition. Maybe it is not a Studebaker.

After seeing the blog from the fellow who is building the Indy racer it made me wonder about a 31 engine a friend has in his shop. It is a Studebaker 8 cylinder, serial number is XE with four numbers. The other Studebaker engine that looks interesting is a 35 twin ignition six. Both are fairly complete, but the carb is broke on the twin ignition six. Any info on these? There was a v-8 out of about a 62 Lark but he had a helper haul it off cause it was "too new"

hwellens, I appreciate the help. The latest problem is that after getting new wood wheels made for the car it has worn all of the lining off of one band down to the rivets. I have not had the time to see if he did not get the drum within the .007" concentric tolerance. So frustrated with this thing I'm ready to accidentally stall it on the RR tracks. It was originally put together by a tractor shop. Everything I have done to it, I have tried to make right. We have a Town Sedan as a parts car.

I think the Filling Station carries those. The other option is to enlarge the drawing. You know the cross shafts are 3/4" in diameter, so scale it to that size, draw it up, cut it out. The originals were metal and designed to be used extensively. Since you are just using it now and then make it out of 3/4" or 7/8" plywood or hardwood.

Hello, We have a 28 model 72. It has a 1-3/8" master cylinder and 1-1/4" wheel cylinders. It is the last year Chrysler used the first generation Wagner/Lockheed brakes. That is, it is the last year of the external band type brakes. While doing research in getting my brakes working better I talked to a fellow with a couple of Jewetts. His Jewetts both have the optional hydraulic brakes. He told me that in order to get his brakes working he had to silver solder an air release where the main tube goes over the rear engine crossmember. Apparently air gets trapped there and he could not get it out while bleeding the brakes. Not sure if this is your problem but it is one place to look.

Hello Mechanician, Scripps Booth is considered to be a Chevrolet forerunner, and is accepted in the VCCA. I would suggest you contact the VCCA, they have a forum devoted to the V-8 models. I do not know if it is the same v-8 used in the 1917 to 1919 Chevrolet H models, but it could be. There is a member in our region who is working on restoring a H4, the engine is done and is quite impressive.

Are 30 olds the same?

I had hoped to buy it from you if it was 1-1/8"

Thanks, should be 1", or 1-1/8"

Hello, Not to be picky but a little help as to what you are looking for would be beneficial. So the piece you posted a photo of is the hinge pillar, and almost looks like it is for a 29 instead of a 30. Does the windshield slope at all, or is it straight up and down? Is the cars instruments in one oval gauge cluster, or is it 4 individual gauges inserted in the dash. Are you looking for the aluminum cover that goes over the outside of the hinge post or the actual wood hinge post? There was a fair amount of changes in that area from 29 to 30.

Hello, can you tell me what diameter the intake manifold is where it bolts to the cylinder head?

I posted on one of the other forums you made an inquiry on. I see which clevis shackles you are looking for now. In two local newsletters I posted a two year search for some to install a 29 axle in the 28 rp I am working on. I like the 29 set up better, and have a 29 coupe for a pattern. Very hard to find. Finally gave up and will use 28 type in the 28 rp. Gary Wallace at one point had a set for 29 but wanted a fair chunk of change for them. True 29 material is getting harder to find, many more 28, and 30 models were saved than 29. If you want to convert to 30 style we can probably set you up. It may be difficult without an entire rear axle assembly since they were activated totally different from 29 and 30 so shipping to Au would probably be $$$.

In the US 29 Chevs did not originally come with "shock absorbers". The 30 Chevs had a single action type from the factory and since the 30 model was very similar to the 29 a lot of them got installed on 29s as they became available from wrecking yards or ?. The 30 front axle has a 5th hole forged in it beside the u-bolt holes that the shock lever rod goes through and the shock body mounted on the side of the frame rail with two heavy bolts. The rear shock was mounted on the frame rail as well and had a small heavy plate that went under two of the axle u-bolts. The 28 and 29 Chevs had "recoil plates" on the springs that look like helper springs. EACH leaf spring has TWO recoil plates, front of axle and rear of axle mounted on top. Since your shocks are already installed and the holes drilled in the frame you might not care, but if someone was reading this thread and wanted to ensure authenticity on a US model they might think all 29 Chevs came with shock absorbers. A tourer/phaeton in summer weather would be VERY nice.

Hello dpsmith, I too am struggling with a model 72 brakes. A tractor company "restored" this car for the owner at that time. I think they damaged and destroyed more than they restored, one of which was the brakes. While they had them sleeved, which is okay, they got rid of the original interior piston stops and the grooves they mount into. The original master cylinder was replaced with a newer one that really was not a good fit. I am still looking for 4 of the notched copper seals for the banjo nuts. They used an air chisel to remove the rear axle retainer bolts and in the process egg shaped the housing since they did not have a hub puller. They broke the block that holds the axles apart and it went THROUGH the gears without breaking them and out the rear cover- amazing. I could go on and on but you get the picture. This is a very pretty Fisher Bodied golf club coupe with 54,000 miles on it. My wife and I had new hickory wheels made for it and she sanded, painted, and varnished them. It was her suggestion that we get this car since it was "already done". We have made 3 local tours with this thing in 4 years, I can now understand why some nice looking old cars get modified with new running gear. Getting back to the thread, I actually have learned a lot about these brakes and they will work well in dry conditions. If you need some help with them send me a PM.

You might try Restoration Supply in California. They carry them, and have slightly over-sized pins if yours just need freshening up. If you have the original clevis' and they are just worn most people weld up the holes and re-drill with a drill press to original size with a sharp bit. I have a 29 coupe and am working on a 28 depression rp that will look like a Aus ute. I may have a couple of worn ones if that will get you out of a jamb.

Chevrolet did not use rubberized mounts until 32 when they came out with all sorts of advancements that made everything smoother. The earlier engines should be bolted down fairly snug to prevent the bolt(s) and mount from wallowing out the holes in the frame.