ArticiferTom

That is the total of weight , cargo and trailer . It is also the registered weight ,you can have two axle 7000 lb rated trailer register it less 3000lbs but use it for lighter rating . many do to avoid the inspection . It may be harder to do after first regist. is done when bought used , been a long time . Pa Code Ch 45 , Art. 175.4 (5) EXEMPTIONS . PUBLISHED online.

Yes . I vote keep it going ,please . I'm sure someone's fledgling teen tech guru will figure how to reboot to last week and save us all .

Where ???

No inspection needed on trailer registered under 3000 lbs . in PA. Nor do you need brakes if less then forty percent of tow vehicle GVW .

Thanks anyway I did check yours out from photos I have . I have found some in other photos ,just can not see what is on back side . attached is example .

Hello all , Posted above I'm looking for pics and measurements of the four piece bracket that mount front plate to headlight bar on late twenty's early thirty's dodges . Looks similar to two one hole pipe straps bolted together . Thanks Tom

Looking for pics of plate brackets that go on headlight bar . Believe it is two opposing clamps with 1/4" bolt drawing them together . Seen used two ways one with short leg end dog on front griping plate . Other same part on back side with separate holes for plate . Never saw opposite half clamp , think it may have long leg . Would like those measurements .

Welcome John , if you do a search on hub pulling you'll find lots of info and pics . Boils down to using the proper original or new reproduction tool . With the proper installation and directions being as important . A picture of your hub may help in sizing the thread of your hub . Maybe the 2 3/8" x 16 tpi tapered .

Try the Filling Station , chevy stuff mostly . but good pics .

Do you have any of the clamps and lock with rods for '30-32 Dodge trucks ,like mine avatar-ed . The wing nut is same as on your diagram but is threaded 3/8-16 ,they may have there bolt inverted part numbers match . Attached pic of my parts to see what friend needs .

That's the book . It is on the site near end ,marked reprinted articles $9.00 .

Thank Dave , that's some nice look'in trucks . I guess last black one would be about size . It looks like a motometer goes on top . Is there a particular brand Boyce or one with Dodge on it ? Tom

Hello All , Boy truck forum been quiet lately . So , I have a question . What would the radiator cap on a model TC ,2 Ton with 4 cylinder engine be . Just found out about a restore by a local, in my town . May have future questions also . Anyhow this chassis needs lots of love . Was told roof and door are already getting done and truck does run . It is unique ,as two transmissions in series . I think you need a co-pilot just to get up to it 25 mph max speed . Attached couple pics I took this weekend .

Great to hear . It's nice having the right tools .

Do not think these type products will help . Your seal is felt not rubber that needs to be softened and defiantly do not want to thin . Does your rear look like diagrams I attached above . Because to me it looks like it is serviceable from face .

I have same problem with my daughters '07 Subaru . It's common problem where the ring stick in the grooves causing lots of oil blow by . You do not see it as smoke ,at tail pipe because of cat- converter . But oil consumption jumps to 1 qt . every 200-300 miles and the service engine lite codes for downstream convertor O2 sensor . Adding a lube like Restore we use some other brand to oil every other change keeps usage at 1qt every 1500 miles . It only makes rings able to expand and contract within the groove by cleaning and lubing better at groove . Results give tighter fit to cylinder wall . Probably this is what restore is doing also .

I would think its the circuit with armature in it . You only need field coils to motor . May even be dirty or worn brushes . Can you ohm from brush to brush but you'll have to lift ground wire or insulate grounded brush and measure to commutator bars .This would be working through band cover .

Yes , original was two wire coming out apparently they change ,adapted these back to one wire to retro on older vehicles . If unit is of vehicle mount in vise and spin with a drill min 700 rpm and I use cupped wire brush in chuck against pulley with volt meter on case and wire coming out you should see voltage start at about 6-800 rpms depending on set of third brush . When you motor it what was ampere if you used charger ? I think Auto-lite is 3-4 amps .

Is it a one wire gen or do you have a regulator wired to it ? I did search your's has more then one wire . There was info on forum Yesterdays Tractors .com on testing generators separated from regulators and also the regulators . Good luck tom

Motoring only means, the stator or field coils are good . Can still have bad armature . There is away to test both if you have more then one wire coming out and bypass regulator or something . Armatures usually short out, not ground out so you'll need to take it to a test shop with growler .or just buy replacement armature if cheap enough . Model A sites or goggle testing 6volt generator have and show testing tractor units on you-tube . If you have more than one wire coming out and all disconnected . I think may cause over speed , sorry forgot exactly .

My mechanic manual for Dodges and Grahams says 600 weight for Grahams . Axles look similar Is there a lower and upper hole ,lowers is level of fluid ,they call grease . Mine was litterly so thick when I checked the level some came out and stopped in mid-air . Had to reach finger in to pull more out for drop-let to continue . This was new, I changed . diff Grah.pdf Imfo book .pdf Sorry this all I can help .Hope others jump in who are more familiar with these cars

Good point what is your fluid in it ? Did you or someone perhaps put in to light weight of fluid . Yours may take anything from 600 to 1200weight steam oil , which is like stiff honey . To light will not only leak in front ,but also sides into wheel and brake areas .You'll to find from a service manual the correct fluid . Tom

No, Mike C he was talking the tape on outside and re-varnish it . To me not really needed if connections are ok or accessible to repair where solid wire meats stranded . If you have a bad coil ,it would be much cheaper and easier to buy replacements .

Hello Spinneyhill , I donot know what '39 Stud drive train is like . Assume the OD box hangs on back of trans . meaning you would have to lower while backing out . I don't think that will be a problem on my truck . I just never got to it as fuel pump and carb problems with my running have not been fixed and Winter arrived today with 12" of snow . this will put me on hold working on truck except for some cosmetic thing I can remove and do in shop . I do have access to floor jacks if I need . O' well only about 8 more weeks of winter . Tom

Saw this on ebay . http://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-Dodge-Series-F-2-and-3-Ton-Truck-Owners-Manual-to133-H92V7G-/290878935763?hash=item43b9bc52d3:g:YpEAAOxys-BSMgPG