ArticiferTom

My contact back in June was danielle.szostake@fcagroup.com . She send me a attachment with forms to fill out and mail with check . If you email me I'll forward form to give you jump on Nov 1 start-up . Tom shultzs4@ptd.net

I think it says NON SCATTER in reference to glass . See cover letter under glass typed same way . Tom

I'm working on my gages right now . It's hard to believe the hours you can put in to it . I would call that face plate perfect . I have been using that evapo- rust . Suppose to remove only rust not paint . It only failed me once as the rust was under the paint so everything came off a license plate I was doing. I repainted inner divider but no face plates that have writing . I did remove all paint someone sprayed on bezels and re nickeled . I had electro- kit from years ago . Came out good on the brass ,fair on the zinc . Good Job! Tom

If you have brass sleeves in your wheels corroding with aluminum pistons . may be cheaper to have some brass cups made ,the design seem pretty simple . I know if ends are damaged you can get replacement 1 1/4" alum. pistons from later model Chevys' .

Need to know amperage output of 6volt generator on my '31 Dodge with Plymouth 4 cyl. .I have no ID plate on the generator . I want to make sure fuse on back of amp gage is sized right . Gage itself is Northeast 30 + and - max. Was also think of up grading headlights cp's . Thanks Tom

If you are, consider Hagen's in Washington state . Did my '31 Dodge pickups last month all 4 cyl sleeved in stainless and rebuilt with what ever cups needed replacement . Even replaced rounded off bleeders with good original type and relined shoes . Every thing came back derusted , sealed and read to install . The turn around was 8 days door to door and price was the best .

EVEN BETTER WHEN A GOOD SMACK DOES IT ! Tom

Good Luck ! I'm doing same myself now bur it was only down 7 years . I found more Tees E-bay under Brass Branch Tee you'll need to now you size price Is a quarter of new . tom

A B's site G-260 $45.00 read description not pics . NAPA may have Dorman makes similar . Your welcome .

Just looked Advance auto as many different size tees ,you just add male-male to one end . Looks like yours as a fitting in it . Tom

Andy Ber. in brake (G) section . Did you try him ?

Yes , if the building is unheated the air will hold the moisture, but only the air and object within . This why ventilation high and low is important limiting the moisture to atmospheric only . This will reduce itself faster with roof heating from sun . Go in most barns the bottom on grade floor is damp but second hay storage area is always dry or drying ,but also cold or hot . Or why even a tight trailer off the ground is dry inside . I would probable add a internal work shop /garage inside with heat and a/c . Even the pre made shed/ garage stay dry because they are off the ground a couple inches . Another thing is for every inch of concrete it will take about a year for it to complete dehydrate . My house took about six years with heating and dehumidification to completely dry .

The vapor barrier is the most important item . There are plastic's made specifically for this it is very strong ( yellow ) and it is taped at joints with a (red) tape of equal strength . I'm sure there other brand , this is what I see used on large construction slabs at work . Plain poly plastic is not good enough ,it migrates moisture . They also put the vapor barrier down under the modified or gravel ,mostly done to protect it from concrete trucks and us electricians damaging it . Maybe pull back some of your sand if clean and place back or add new if available . Moisture will then only be available from the atmosphere it can not accumulate in the earth . I learned from studying , building and living in underground home (earth sheltered ) ,for 28 yrs . Basic structure is concrete , vapor barrier , foam insulation , EPDM rubber membrane , 1" styrene protection for rubber and gravel drain field . Can be seen a little in my avatar , with retaining wall . Also you do not need reinforcing metal in your floor if you decide to pour . Get the concrete with fiberglass reinforcement mixed in .

RESTORATER , or PRESERVER or TRUSTEE . any, maybe with OF THE PAST

It needs something more . Like TECHNICIAN or SERVICEMAN or ENTHUSIAST .or HISTORIAN , something !

Thank you, Was a pleasure talking to you about this . At time I did know where trans type changed away from that floating secondary shaft .

Looking for on my '31 dodge pickup w artillery wheels . Speeds under 60 downhill with wind . Never heard of over heating ,was just looking for quality . Forums seem to say today's import tubes are so bad , of coarse with internet you only hear bad, not necessarily the other 500 good .

Roger would that hold true for my 3speed trans and diff . on '31 dodge/ Graham truck w 4cyl Plymouth engine . 1500 wt steam oil ! I have trans drained and top off and flushed with kero ,as system was water contaminated .

Attached some close ups . I think wd or kero may be just what it needs . I'm not sure know to get it out ,washer ring on bottom may be something . You'll have to careful because of gear reduction plug .

If you remove it and oil it while spinning with a vari-sped drill . Do not use cable stick square something ie nail filed square . Is there lot of corrosion in the housing or is it just dry . I'll take pic of cable end to show after LLWS game.

Sorry do not know exactly what you mean by nipping . Where the cable goes up into the housing you can stick a small screwdriver blade and turns freely the shaft right up to the magnetic dome . It also turn at a slow ratio the worm gear that drives the odometer . I see two pin with plastic washers under them . I think they hold the respective shafts in . Have you tried cleaning and lubing before taking that much apart (WD-40 ) . Remember to try avoid reduction gear inset . Call me if you need me to check something else out . When you look up the cable hole I see a split washer (ring) , do not know what this does , may just be stop for cable . Replacement generic cable is available with crimp on ends . Ebay. Note found that two pins in housing were actually oil caps and fibre with felt under . After oiling shaft turns smoother yet.

Well dropped the dash down to remove gauge .There was spring inside clock type ,but problem is the dial arm itself is broke off at spring spindle . May try to soldier it back together , doubt can find just that part . Every thing was dirty and grit ,old lube took pic after cleaning . Thoughts WELCOME on making repair .

Was curious if any tried those motorcycle extra heavy 3mm tubes ebay sells ? Sounds like there almost double the strength .Is there any cons ie repairs,or valve stems ?

Have barrel type meter on my '31 dodge pickup .Noticed cable bend and spread at trans. side so removed cable. While trying to push cable back together it slide back into connector looks great . But was it suppose to? How much end should stick out past trans. end , meter end has limiter attached on cable ? Also what lube should I put on cable before sheathing it ? I also note the meter moves when hand turning cable but never returns to zero , is there a spring inside ? This Forum's been great help for me getting this truck I recently acquired back on the road . I finally finished brakes ,total resleeve and reline and rehose . When checking trans fluid level found water got in when roof leaked I guess . Had to pull top and flushed out with Kero in garden sprayer . Need to track down some 600wt steam oil . and change rear also . Thanks again one and all !

Any buddy try those 3mm thick ,extra heavy duty extreme motorcycle tubes ? Notice on ebay. sized for 19" ,.