ArticiferTom

A before and after or radiator coils . A tuff one to photo and light .

Another pic , Zoo and CLR thumbs up.

Thanks All . Coolant system repaired . The Zoo did a good job of cleaning debris . You can see by scan 6-25 more heat is passing in other locations . Still was not the improvement I wanted . I pulled radiator , looked to side with mirror and saw the problem as calcium build up . Crusty deposits of it over to ports . I laid flat and add CLR full strength 4 jugs just covered coils then ran a brush , flexible soft steel bristle over coils every hour ,for about eight . Was afraid of using stronger or going longer as pic shows crust came off. Only surface calcium remained . The 7-6 dated scan show the improvement ,as heat is all across top now . Other scan not posted show inlet temp at 153*F and radiator outlet temp. as 115*F . Grimy, I did add stocking to upper hose and even on second run of half hour ,it picked up debris . Guess you call that a good hack today . More info on a water pump issue is in Dodge threads .

Does look great . Assume it uses tubes and is AM only .

That's great ! The can looks like a good match ,I've seen ink cans of similar size . The tire can be easily welded had to do lots of repair on my five rims . The locks saw lots of abuse and were poorly repaired . Do not forget your tube liners (flaps ) .

Thanks All , just checked manual says . Fluid Gear Lubricant rear and Engine Oil front . The same lube is listed for all steering and links so to me it is tube grease . However I did put marine grade same as son uses on boat . Have replacement bushing installed and waiting to get radiator flushed better before assembly this weekend . UF10 Lube .pdf

A couple more pics ready to assemble .

Yes Graham, I should have ask you first . The oil-lite site says the plain bearing is 30 wt ,but others including mineral and food grade are available . As far as grease zerk that is OEM and the lube chart supports . I think they where looking to get grease to keep water out more than anything . Must remember this technology was only a year old, and in next model, changed to type' plus' bearing . I original was going to add top hole, figuring at least at lube schedule it would get a good few drops and remainder would wick in . The two grease holes in rear bushing are top and bottom . Maybe this would have prevented yours from freezing because the grease would have kept coolant out of bearing and allow oillite self lube bush, to do its job . Since I believe the rear both bearing are original, and as the pic show ,out preformed the oil only bushing . thanks all Tom PS. What is thought on soaking gland nut with graphite packing, in oil to soften a little ?

That is the dip hole you fill with oil .Limited access when pulley mounts back over . Research on net seems to say there was no hole, the oil will wick through the porous bearing . These bearings Oil-lite and Oil-lite plus were developed by Chrysler in 1930 and 1933 respectively. Special cares must be taken when machining to prevent sealing the pores .The bushing comes vacuum impregnated with 30 wt . I used permatex gasket A on the cast to bush mating surface . Applied on cast surface beyond journal and on bush ahead of journal ,to prevent it sealing in that area . But stopping oil loss between those surfaces . Did not have" beyond part" scraped clean enough and pressing bush in resulted in constricting area . Had to use dowel and sand paper to clear for shaft . Some what of a no-no but better than reaming ,which is not recommended . By applying air to dip hole was able to see oil pushing out of bearing , also any cooling while sizing should be done in oil . Refer to Wik-apeda and Prac Mach. forum . I'll post more pic with assembly .

Yeah , What looks like a hole on pic is not . It is where center area of bushing collapsed in to journal as it thinned . This the front bearing only receives oil and the bushing is impregnated with 30 wt oil Oil-Lite . The rear bushing that is exactly the same type as two hole but receive grease to keep coolant out and then has packed gland nut to keep grease and coolant in . Plus it looks like bushing was shellac-ed or permatex-ed in to keep oil from running out around cast . Had to scrape off to get new bushing to start in .

Hello all . While working on my '31 Graham w/ U engine's coolant system I was going to repack gland nut , of water pump and notice front bearing was very ,verrry worn . So pulled pump and got bushing ,oil-lite bronze flanged and had finished machine to shaft size . Question is the partial old bushing show no hole to the oil journal around middle of bushing , should there be ? Or will oil soak thought bearing . And was there wick inside ? Inside bearing was only 2/1000 over so leaving it go . Grease must have kept it good .

Hello all looking for water outlet elbow gooseneck for my '31 Plymouth engine . Also some original 2" id two wire hose clamps early type for lower hose . Have other sizes nos wire clamps available for sale or trade . Tom

Hello looking for mopar part 40384 gooseneck outlet for on my '30-'31-? Plymouth 4cyl engine . Also 2" ID radiator hose clamps, old two wire type for lower hose . outlet is 3-1/4" hole spacing parallel to engine ,2" outlet ,elbowed 70* .

Did you try Jay Astheime ,like said he had at lest 6 bumper set under his porch . Sells mostly Chysler parts ,but who know what rod job they came from .

The rebuild kit is available at Napa standard 1-1/4" $20 . If your saying cylinder is pitted try honing first . There is a max. then have it sleeved in S/S . Check there are two holes from top to piston ,one is very small and block easy for equalizing ,called compensating hole . A slightly under sized can is available from Freud Container , I think called . you'll have add port on bottom and vent cap with splash guarding. Hagens Hwy . may have whole unit rebuilt to go . Tom

LaBaron Bonney Auto Upholstery called Common Sence Fastners look similar . tom PS . Ebay is full of them exact type . under common sence fastner .

That's Bad Ass . See the extra seat mounted to font of radiator . Wonder what that's for ? Maybe rangel'in cows Marlin Perkins style .

Is that a two rail bumper . I know where there are a bunch from Chrysler's . Scene them at Jay Astheimer 's Monday . astheime@ptd.net . Tom

That's right off his business card Jay his name .cell ph 610-462 -3631 Pen Argyl ,Pa. If your emailing from Apple product make sure it goes out as .net not .com ,it's default .

Is tank your looking for exactly like the one pictured ? Jay Astheimer of Pre 1930 Chrysler had 3 different oval tanks similar, with some denting . Was just at his garage today , all are from Chryslers . Send him pic and your measurement if you want , astheime@ptd.net .

Did you try web site Tanks Inc ,Mopar tanks the 34 coupe and sedan tanks are similar but 37" long .

Pics Please .

Yeah, I'm hoping it is all top debris . If that does not work then it will be removal . This is modern type rad installed in mid 90's when restored by previous . The mid bottom black spot is license plate ,note .

Thanks , mostly what I was thinking on block . But can not take the very short lower radiator hose off .There is no heater core just stubs for future install . Thinking for using this to inject radiator and outlet block . Radiator is biggest concern know you can see blockages on this scan , only right side is passing heat .

Yes, just did some searching and found they still make similar guns . There is inlet on right and taper tip come off with garden hose threads on both . I have capped heater hoses and a partial block radiator was thinking of direct hookup to heater hose tap, leaving stat in. To force water out radiator top hose, removed from block on my 31 Plymouth 4 cyl. engine . Then removing stat to flush block . My concern was water pump .