ArticiferTom

The harness would probable not include this short wiring . So you maybe able to just cover with tape . Others , just do one at a time . Cloth covered wire can be brought at some electrical or appliance stores ,listed as hi temp wire . Usually only available in black and white . Be sure to counter hold screw terminals with plyers to prevent bending the aged parts . Other problem areas include the horn button wire going up through the tube . Meter all circuits with VOM or bell battery before hooking to battery . A ground (wire touching metal ) or short, wire touching other wire or electrified part can go bad quick , hence the fuse . I even added a fuse to my ignition switch ,and master cut-off switch to battery because you will not get wires off fast enough when a melt down starts .

What is first letters of motor number to get that right . Then go to PLY33 site the First Decade. He list all kinds of info .

I was able to take the whole oval panel loose and drop below dash and work from seat . Do not know exactly what yours looks like . Usually power from battery and generator come to opposite sides of the amp gage and on bat side taps to ignition switch then to coil to power it. Other side may have one fuse this feeds lights and horn . This is my 31 anyway . My coil power is not fused and you must see amp gage draw to indicate coil is getting power . Then engage starter with foot pedal . Hope some one else with model closer to yours chimes in !! TOM

THIS SHOULD HELP .

May had just been a patent think too !

Yes , I Think you have it right now, I was half wrong . See how the back of keyed slot is farther from back of enlarged tube . This gives room for spring and will accept shocks inward . Take the end pieces only and assemble with pitman arm in ,if it can not be pulled out of keyed slot it should be safe . Do same test on other end ,with out spring . Use Tee inner of spring ,I agree with Spinneyhill it reinforce and if spring breaks stops ball from coming out . Tells you if wear in keyed slot is in need of repair , the way I see it .

Did not know that . Pic if you can . Is the topping labeled on inside ? Here mine 4 CHASE 31 SUPER LUSTRE DREDNAUT

The tee pin goes inside spring to set tightening depth ,then back off Drag link.pdf

Harry here some pics of two different '31 DB trucks .

Stakeside posted in Picture threads under Stockton . This is Evansville plant ,two different periods .

I used CLR on just my radiator . Had mostly calcium on top blocking half . There is thread on it in Technical under Zoo Tool, two months ago at most . It did great job do not know about running through whole system . You may need to determine what problems you have . ie oil ,rust ,calcium ,dirt or etc .

Yes , Most any harder wood would do . If you notice the pictures of the DB/Graham truck factory post here . The building next door is a lumber company .

Taylormade . to me ,I think layout is wrong on both . when finished the neck down area of link should hold the ball so it will not pull out. Making it the side without spring . Spring pushes ball to restricted side . The spring is tighten to solid and backed off to next notch of cotter pin , per my manual .

Going to be doing mine on my '31 this Winter . I see oak on the thin joists, have not determined ends type, looks different maybe poplar. Need to disassemble and clean layers of paint . Have you found the topping yet . Original on mine says Supre Lustre inside, by Chase Drednaut .

Go to Truck Thread one down and look Aug. 6th . A discussion and listing of a great web site to cross bearing numbers to new . Just need number to start . Tom

No expert on that , I thought both where used as Handleman said . I know Desoto's also may have used . Either way , lets see some pics of your ride . tom

Thanks 4231DB34 . I 'll file that info and check him out at Hershey this year . I do have replacements in route thanks to Plyroadking . tom

On pos grd system + toward points ,- towards key . You'll get spark with low voltage ,but not enough to fire reliably . My U suffered this, after 5 year sit on engine . Jumped to starter terminal, and fired up fast . Needed to clean terminals on amp gage and key switch to get 6 volts back . When cranking pull spark retard half out till crank increases, then right back in. You can pull plug on bottom of carb to verify fuel and cleans bowl too . To late to have you pump oil through system manually before starting to pre lube , I guess . Last resort a little starting fluid down the air cleaner , I do mean little , spray .

Check voltage at coil for at lest 5 + dc . Is amp gage showing discharge ,indicating ignition normal ?

Check out Dodge Truck forum above about August 7th date is BTT of a set of very nice lights I have . I believe them to be same, as Dodge /Graham where build on Plymouth chassis . I hit two set in one week when needed them , fixed up both sets . Can may give you different glass if wanted .Mine were paint not chrome and do not know about your mounts .

Great PM send .

Looks like them . The number is on under side . Would be interested two sets of bolt, wedge and nuts .

Thanks for the offer Ron most generous . If no one answers here , I wait till Hershey this Fall . I made a copy for now and used standard hex nut . Shipping across is only reason . THX TOM

Looking to buy replacement wheel clamps and spare bolt and lug nuts . Lost one on last trip, Kelsey 789A about 1-1/4" square see attached . Nut is 5/8 flats with bowl for 7/16" bolt . This goes on my '31 Dodge pickup 19" wood wheels to tire assembly .

Open one of oil journal plugs ,adapt fitting ,use suction gun to introduce a couple tubes of oil . You'll see gage move if forced enough and lube most of engine . It should get you filled back to pump check or gears setting up a prime . I use plug above pressure relief nut .