ArticiferTom

Yes if uniform , maybe be expansion slot . Your Book of Information should give all .

Get yourself some waterproof duck material place on . Then paint as ugly as you want with the stuff from the commercials , screen door boat .LOL . I going to try on mine some day .

Save some larger pieces of babbitt to send with . Get a BOI for your model some had offset of width in babbit edge on different cylinder number . Chrysler sixes example . Send piston pin with for them to check twist .

Just went though same trouble on 4 cyl Ply PA . Was able to leave head on and disconnect rod from bottom . Tried to do in vehicle , in end pull to do proper plastigage of all mains and rods . I would take crank out and send to shop so they can size . Just incase they vary . Polish crank before checking . I used crock-us cloth with nylon stocking to drive . You need to pull crank because of babbitt in groove blockage and squirt holes in rod s . My rod whent out because prior rebuilder never put grooves in mains to feed oil to crank joural to rods ie never got direct oil to rods lasted near two thousand miles on residual oil splash . Good Luck .

Do you have pic ? Is this 4 cyl ?

Do you have number from it ?

On my '31 with Plymouth PA type 4 cylinder . Have front engine cover off that covers cam and crank gears , also bevel gear on cam nose and vertical shaft with spiral gear for distributor to drop down in . The distributor index's a slot but gear below has more possibility with all teeth . Must be better way than fishing with magnet down distributor hole and turning and reinstalling dist. to test if near TDC #1 plug on cap .

Ebay , Search Tryon shackles .

Find a wheel shop and have this band removed and shrunk for reinstall . Or have new . Easy job for them and won't be bad ,cost wise . Location maybe problem if no Amish or Mennonites in your area .

Sound like something is misaligned or spring pushed to tight at bottom . Remove switch from tube make sure there not binding in column . Pics would help .

DYI , Texas Platters Supply Co . Sold kits to do silver , gold ,copper ,nickle .

Try plastic tubing brass liners for 1/4" compression fittings ,used in water filters system etc. I'v used for various things including liners of carb linkage . Can be bought in separate packages than connectors as a plastic ferrule and the liner.

May not have been made in England , LHD . Pic of tags on it and side view will help .

Without hole very hard to fill cooling system without burping housing . Air lock can cause steam be fore fluid can get to stat element that opens ,too .

Sucked right in here Dave LOL . You can just hook up to a good engine and try . It takes a special tester , that are antiques themself ,to properly test . I believe a few year ago some one was doing it for free . You may find in your search , thinking Edinmass. Most and myself hide new oil-less coil under dash and remove key and coil section from bezel replace with simply 3/4" two wire key on dyi bracket . And works better, looks perfect unless you crawl under dash . Totally reverse able ,no mods to original equipment .

Use Marine Sta-bile . has anti rust corrosive property . Mine with non-E is five years rust free.

Is any of it descriptive of work procedure . Those pics are typical of whats in info owners book and Master parts book .

Must contact thur Facebook L&L Antique Auto Trim . They have new phone number .

Same rods used in PA and PB can also end in 45 . BTT.

Jay had a few at Hershey this year .

Thanks for all info and responses . We have car running and brakes do slow down . Lube was only thing unsure of . That is answered now . With grease per manual .

Talk to local old plumber or plumbing store . Most older hot water circulaters used similar .

Does not that description make the above install upside down ? Bolt should be going down and springs on bottom then nut . As six cylinder where only one using and mostly on larger trucks , few are left to see .