Gasket

Hi All, Thanks for these insights.... So, one small hole suffices to permit and also restrict flow (to maintain oil pressure) for the whole system. Oil cycles slowly--20 minutes (per Rusty). I'll go for Wix 51004 (thanks Grimy). Still hazy about bypass valve action, but that's OK.

Eureka.... one tiny hole shows up near the top of the outlet tube (see image), so we're in business. (Thanks, Dandy Dave for showing me what to look for--and for the links.) The image, attached below, of an AC S-6 filter ass'y actually shows filtered oil dripping through a tiny hole into the outlet tube. About bypass valve.... mine has the spring secured to the underside of the top, so it presses down on the top of the filter cartridge. The bottom of the filter cartridge sits on a metal spacer--at least that's where it was when I took the thing apart. Does bypass action entail the filter cartridge moving upward against the spring? Is that correct? How does such movement enable bypass of a clogged filter? Or does this type of set-up not have bypass feature? Hi Grimy, Those cartridge dimensions are as close as I can get with my non-digital calipers; thanks for looking. However, the ID dimension on the cartridge above is without grommets; with grommets, I guess the dimension in a catalog would be close to the OD of the outlet tube (?), which, as mentioned, is 9/16 Hi Dave, Thanks for the NAPA idea

Thanks Rusty, Larry.... Alas, there are no holes along the tube. I'm stumped

Hi All, I have what appears to be a Fram type canister oil filter attached to the fire-wall of my 1929 Chrysler series 65. My question is: What size filter cartridge goes inside? I understand from various sources that this is a by-pass, partial flow design. If it is a Fram product, I gather it may take either a C-3 or C-4 cartridge. In looking for replacement cartridges, which cartridge dimension is more important: Height? OD? ID? Is it important for the cartridge to seat snug about the outlet tube? My canister is 4-9/16 OD; is 4-7/16 ID; height w/out top is 6-3/8; total height including top bolt is 7-7/8; outlet tube is 9/16 OD. The old cartridge (unmarked) that I took out of it was 4-7/8 H X 3-7/8 OD X 3/4 ID Also, layman's question: How does filtered oil find its way into the outlet tube? I understand dirty oil enters through the side of the canister, is filtered, and exits out the bottom, but it appears that the outlet tube will be closed off once the top bolt is secured. What am I missing? Thanks for any guidance

Just to confirm some of the above.... Yours is a 1929 Series 65. Information I have on engine numbers says they ran from P175001 - P241336; so, yours in within that. FYI: Your (Fedco) serial number should have 2 more digits--as in the below example. Something like: DP??2C BTW: DW000P to DC507D, in the above table supplied by 30DodgePanel, translates as 900001 to 925079 based on W P C H R Y S L E D 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 That's how DW can precede DC Cheers

Just FYI: Attached are images of 2 people folding the top on an 29 Packard Touring

Thanks for the comment... That is correct; for wood wheels, not demountable, the Parts List does show different numbers and does distinguish front drum, #79172, and rear drum, #79173, and says '2 per car' for each. However, for demountable wood wheels, drum wheels, and wire wheels, Chrysler Master Parts List (15 June, 1934) shows the same part number, #43941, for Series 65 and Series 70 drums, and says '4 per car', which suggests that front and rear are the same drum. Of course front and rear hubs are different, but (I'm hoping) the rivets can be drilled out and hubs can be swapped and re-riveted as needed. As for the difference between a wood wheel and a demountable wood wheel, I have no experience with either one. I guess for a wood wheel, changing a tire entails removing the rim (demountable rim) while the wheel stays secured to the drum; whereas for a demountable wood wheel, the entire wheel is removed, as with a disc wheel and a wire wheel, so can have the same drum for these three types. I could be completely wrong; and, no doubt, I am guilty of wishful thinking, and the Master Parts List could be wrong too, but if it increases my chances of finding a serviceable drum, I hope not. Thanks again

Need serviceable brake drum, prefer rear, but front is OK too. 14" ID; 16" OD overall; inner face/depth 2-1/2" These are 12 hole; 6 for lug bolts, and 6 for rivets that secure the hub. The holes are 6" apart ctr-to-ctr 'Chrysler Master Parts List' shows the same part number for both Series 65 and Series 70 drums for demountable wood wheels, disc wheels, and wire wheels--but not for wood wheels. Thanks for any leads

About half the bakelite of the throttle ring and a third of the spark ring was completely missing; I formed the wood filler material to match the radius and profile of the bakelite that remained. The wood filler is easy to work; it sets up quickly, but leaves plenty of time to carve and sand before fully hardening; it has a finish, texture, and strength almost identical to original bakelite.

Hi All, In case there is any lingering interest.... I have finished putting the horn button/steering control cluster back together--see before and after images. From info supplied by Vintageben and Sasha39, I reshaped what is sometimes called an 'axel cap' to lock the not-quite-correct horn button to the light control lever--see attached image. I got reproduction light control and spark levers from Jay Astheimer. Also, I had pretty good luck restoring the busted bakelite bits using a Minwax wood filler product and stain. Thanks again for all the help. Jack 'Gasket'

Hi again, Thanks for the good info about correct horn button. I just wanted to follow up by sharing some detail about the whole control cluster--to see if there is anything else lacking. Attached below are two images--exploded views--of what I have.... Looking from front to back: First, there is the horn button spring, seated on the horn wire tip; then, second, a small, fiber (non-conducting) washer; then, third, the light control lever--attached by two screws to the top of the first, inner-most, control rod; then, fourth, a small brass home-made spacer(?); then, fifth, a large thin home-made metal washer/spacer(?)--slightly thicker than tin-foil; then, sixth, a round metal plate with two small bolts that pass through the spark and throttle controls and secure with hex nuts to the top of the fourth, outer-most rod; then, seventh, there is the spark control lever, attached to the top of the second control rod; then, eighth, there is another round metal plate with two holes for the bolts to pass through. Following, ninth, is the throttle control lever attached to the top of the third control rod. Lastly, there is a thin, six-tooth, copper washer that sits between the back of the throttle control and the top of the fourth rod. I am wondering about the correctness/completeness of all this, especially the home-made bits. Should there be thin copper washers behind the light and spark control levers--as there is behind the throttle control lever? Anything else? Thanks

Hi Vintageben and Sasha, This is very helpful; solves one big part of the puzzle. Thanks

Hi Sasha, The reproduction light control lever I have appears correct--it fits the top of the rod perfectly, and matches what vintageandclassicreproductions.com advertises as fitting 1929 Series 65. So, your information about horn button wanting 4 locking teeth makes sense. Thanks

Hi Narve, That'll be great; many thanks.

Hi, Chrysler Master Parts List, June 15, 1934, does not show brake light switch for "Plain Type." Model code J is Series 72 Chrysler. Perhaps brake lights were an option in 1928. Cheers