Larry W

Ouch! This reminiscing about past gas shortages reminds me that I sold my near mint '70 Roadrunner for $750 back in '74. Weeooo, weeooo, weeooo!

Post a picture of your painting when it's finished.

I'm just a bleeding heart when it comes to cool cars that need a new home. So am I. I could never say no when a cool car was winkin' at me, especially if it was cheap!

If you want a Hot Rod; buy a Hot Rod , there's plenty to go around, and modify it to your heart's content.

Maybe '48 Studebaker for #4.

Check your local hardware store first. I've seen square o-rings at my local store.

In addition to Tom's advice, but more likely, if the car still has it's original brake hoses, or if replacements have been on there awhile, the material within may have deteriorated to the point of collapseing or have swelled the line closed, preventing the release of the brake.

. If you're at the point where you have to drill out a broken bolt, I've used " left hand drill bits", or drill bits that work in a reverse or counter-clockwise direction with the use of a reversing drill motor, with a keyed chuck. The advantage to this is that many times the broken bolt will unscrew as it is being drilled.

. This may be the general consensus, as I consulted a retired automotive engineer and here's what he had to say. "Larry, in truth there is no "good" official reason, but old (early) engineers had some theories, and I will tell you the few I know. The spark plugs would last longer because the center electrode would run cooler. Another old theory was that the batteries would last longer because they thought that batteries were discharged when the vehicle body would make contact with a wet bush, or the wire wheels immersed in water or snow. Another reason yet, is that some of them theorized that the battery terminal corrosion will be less if connected positive to ground. Apparently none of the above reason were very valid and then they went back to negative to ground. I say went back because the very, very early model "T" started with negative to ground,. Hope that this helps somehow. At any rate this will make for good discussion over coffee."

I'll take a shot at #2. Early to mid eighties Chevrolet Celebrity, or else aftermarket. Number one I'll go along with Chevy Vega for now, not yet convinced on '57 Plymouth for #4.

When reusing original head bolts, resist the temptation to clean the threads with a wire wheel or to "chase" the bolt holes. I've always used carb cleaner and compressed air on both.

Joe, I've actually gotten a few RPM's out of a motor without a carb by just spraying some carb cleaner into the manifold while cranking it over. On downdraft styles, a teaspoon of raw gasoline into the manifold accomplished the same. Maybe worth a try. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

I just love the picture of this Buick!

$6000 obo.- need garage space for growing family. Great idea! I never thought of keeping my kids in the garage, and bringing my cars in the house.

Check out a 1937 Travelodge here: http://stahlsauto.com/index.cfm/collection

Don't forget about "Mr. Ed" and the Studebakers!

I worked in an engine plant, (Jeep) and the cast iron blocks and heads came from the foundry already painted gloss black, prior to machining. Now that I live near the Motor City, I see many old assembly line photographs, and the frames seem to be gloss black. I don't know if this information is correct for your application, but when I do my chassis, it will be gloss black. I think this is more a matter of personal preference anyway. ( see the thread "1952 Pontiac Catalina" page 18, #450.)

Trimacar, my sentiments exactly!

Pictures, description, location, and price would be a big help.

I believe that in order to have galvanic corrosion, a necessary ingredient is moisture. Place any two dissimilar metals in a glass of water and there will be a minute voltage produced. Sometimes, putting certain types of metal in your mouth will cause the fillings in your teeth to tingle. In a battery cable connection, the moisture is provided by the condensing acid vapors emitted through the vent caps on top of the battery. To counteract this condition, battery polarity was changed. This worked okay until the vehicle was parked and there was no load on the battery, then galvanic action took over again. Further actions to reduce corrosion where sealed top batteries and side post terminals, that's why you seldom see corrosion at the terminals any more. Smarter people than me are invited to dispute this, but that's my story and I'm stickin to it.

I have a four post lift that I drive two cars across the ramps and lift both at once. It's a K&W lift, but I think it must be the last one they made before leaving the planet. I was unable to contact them shortly after my purchase. Does anyone know the fate of this manufacturer?

Did it really sell for that amount? Or is that just a "pie in the sky" asking price?

Just a thought, but why would an owner stop driving a good running car and just leave it sit? I suspect that the car was driven to the owner's carport in an overheated condition, where it finally died. It may have blown a head gasket in the process. I'd bet that the battery didn't die, but that the engine seized up first. I encountered this scenario once when a co-worker offered me a free Pontiac T1000. He said all it needed was a starter. Okay, when I went to retrieve the car I somehow had enough forethought to take along some tools and the first thing I did was put a wrench to the harmonic balancer bolt. The engine wouldn't budge. I let the owner send the car to the junkyard. A few days later he told me that his daughter admitted to driving the car home with the red HOT light glowing.

If you don't plan on keeping the car for very long, your best bet is to leave it as it came off the assembly line. The next owner can then decide whether to restore the car back to its original factory condition or modify it. Hopefully, it won't be modified.

Great video! Thanks for the ride!