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About chstickl

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  1. Hi there, driving these beauties in Europe means every once in a while to get spare parts and material from the US. While ordering, shipping etc. works pretty well with most US suppliers, shipment cost often are higher than order value (definitely with UPS, sometimes even with USPS). Both combined have to be taxed (19% VAT) and pay import duty. So I frequently end up paying more than twice the original order value. This was already leading to funny situations at the airport when I checked in a ww tire or a complete exhaust system on one of my flights back from the US to save all that overhead
  2. Thanks guys for the advice and tips. Indeed there is a way to adjust the bearing in the shop manual by tightening the castle nut. It´s about setting the right friction value for the bearings. Done that, no effect. I guess I will dismount the arm with the bracket together and then get the retainer bolt out to look at the brarings. Thanks again for your valuable advice. Christian
  3. Larry and all fellow sufferers, I had the same in my two 37s. I tried all the litany that has been described in this blog as well as in many others before. My conclusion is that all mentioned activities probably help a bit, but nothing can turn around the situation as effective as a new cored rad. Of course, if all the mud is still in the system, it won´t take long until the new rad is as clogged as the old one. Chemicals have all kinds of side effects on gaskets etc., so I am not sure if the potential risk is worth it. When you get a new core for your rad, some companies can offer high perfor
  4. Hi there, here in Germany we´re sometimes handicapped with some stupid rules and controls. The authority for technical inspection has faulted the steering of my Roadmaster and don´t want to let me drive the car again until I´ve fixed an issue that I´ve never seen as such. There is some play in the bearings of the intermediate steering arm. The arm can move a bit up and down in the holding bracket and also tilts a bit with an audible "knack" when I move the wheel. According to the shop manual, there is nothing to adjust or do, but that doesn´t solve my problem. Either some of the washers betwee
  5. My convertible top seems to be cotton and has never seen any care. The effect is that it attracts dirt and dust after cleaning like a magnet. Is there any recommendation what to use on these old fabrics that protects against dirt, oil (and water as a side effect)? Thanky, Chris
  6. I bought this hood ornament on a swap meet. It seems to be a zinc sand cast model with poor or little surface treatment. Maybe not original, but certainly worth to detail it and make it more beautiful. Does anybody have an idea, how to best detail e.g. the face, some of the folds etc.? I am not talking about polishing, but rather carving/engraving out the countours, lines and shaping the face? Thanks for your advice. Christian
  7. ok, I did my own research. It´s from a 1933 or 1934 Cadillac. It seems to be a Zinc sand cast model with no or very little finishing or surface treatment. Maybe sorted out due to some blow holes, lunkers or stuff. Still beautiful enough to try to get it detailed. Do you have any recommendation how to detail the contours, the face etc? I am not familiar with this at all. By hand or with a small machine? Which tools etc.? In the age of 3D-printing, the good old hand craft work seems to get forgotten.
  8. Hi, today I purchased a hood ornament on a parts swap meet, like shown on the pictures. Does anybody know about the make and year? Can you tell by it´s surface and shape / detailing if it is an original or a cheap imitation? What would you suggest to get it up to glossy glory? Thanks for advice, Christian
  9. Hi there, by the time we probably all have aftermarket exhaust systems for our pre-war cars. For my two 37s I purchased the complete system at Waldron´s with mixed experience. The cars got a lot louder than they have been before. Not good for a car that should be nothing but humming.... Looking at the drawing inside the documentation and into the pipe of the muffler, it becomes clear why. These aftermarket things are built up inside a lot simpler and cheaper than what used to be the original according to drawings (less chambers, simpler pipe perforation, no damping material). Question 1: Are t
  10. This is a summary of a long story how I finally solved the overheating problem of my coupe. Thanks to many of you who contributed to this forum I always kept going. At the end, it comes down to focus on a few elementary things. My 37 Special Coupe kept boiling as soon as temps got over 30 Celsius even without going uphill. Once overheated, she kept boiling even in idle. Here is what I tried: - checked ignition timing, advance and vacuum. No issues, spark plugs are light brown, as they should be - checked carburator and fuel pressure - no issue with it. Trying more fat or lean adjustments didn´
  11. Hi there, because of notorious overheating I brought the radiator of my 37 Special Coupe to a restorer who will exchange the cool web into a high performance one, but use the lower and upper shell of the original rad. He offered to also foresee a thread for a thermo switch and besides recommended to remove the fan blades from the water pump and use an electric auxiliary fan with a thermo switch instead. (I have to say that he is a well known radiator restorer for old cars and I´d assume that he knows what he is talking about, but his main experience may come from allways overheating Jaguars or
  12. Friends, thanks a lot for all the interesting input. Since I was lucky enough that 1/2 inch of the bolts were sticking out, I opted for the simplest solution. I welded a nut on the remainder and started to turn it slowly with a wrench. Twice the nuts broke off at the welding spot, but then I increased the current with minimal wire progression and gave it a 3 second blitz, which almost molt down the nut. Both bolts came off this way. No idea if soaking in an Aceton/ATF mix helped or if it was just heat combined with subtle-brute force. It´s great to have such a broad base of knowledge and wisdo
  13. Hi, when I tried to remove the thermostat housing and waterpump from my 37 Special engine, unfortunately two bolts were so blocked that they broke off. Now ca. 1/2 inch of the bolts is still sticking out of the motor block housing. As the engine is still built in, there is not much space to tinker between the rad and the engine. Question: Does anyone know any magic how to losen them and get them out? They seem to be corroded inside the thread as if baked together. Is there any fluid (besides the usual MOS2), that kreeps in and dissolves the rust? Has anybody made good experience to just weld a
  14. Thanks Joe, as this is exactly what I did already, I have to presume that I need to get the generator repaired. As to the regulator: I still have the original regulator with the guard terminal for the starter switch. Non of the sources known to me seems to have replacements or rebuilt ones. Does anybody know a place where to get them? Chris
  15. Last week my wife and I took our 80C for a tour through the Swiss Alps. At the beginning, I could still watch on the Ammeter that the generator was charging the battery and reacted to switching the light on or off. Then it stopped charging and we finished the week on battery power - not a solution for eternity. I checked the regulator, but could visually see no issue. Manually pressed on the relays while the engine was running, no reaction. Then I checked the generator and exchanged the worn down brushes with great hopes that I found the issue - what a disappointment. Did the usual tests: - gr
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