TexasJohn55

One question. When you are taking off at normal rate at about 20 to 30 mph and then floor the throttle, does the engine immediately rev up and acceleration improve for a few seconds?

Barney, I drove my '88 98 for months with the light on and missing magnet, great mileage and performance. I replaced the magnet to get the light off and nothing changed. I could not tell any difference. That car would get 27+ mpg on the interstate consistently. I don't know what a "bad" sensor could do, it could be worse than no magnet.

Two separate incidents: woman was driving a Pontiac in different state, gender of Hummer driver in Florida was not identified.

A thermostat only "throttles" the coolant flow. If the system runs close to thermostat opening rating, ie: 165* for a 160* thermostat, it is efficient and has reserve cooling capacity. Once the thermostat reaches wide open, ie: 175 appx for a 160* stat, you have reached the limits of that cooling system to control the temperature under those operating conditions.

He keeps the vermin (mice) under control.😉

That is some snake! Glad you two can coexist peaceably.

Once the temp reaches max thermostat open temp, you are done and lost control of system. That would be 195-200* for a 180 stat. A good cooling system ( radiator, pump and air flow ) will consistently keep system at less than wide open stat temp.

That gauge shown could be mistaken for a modern gauge available today, buy another one, in Fahrenheit for the states. Your choice.

After some driving, stop and raise hood, shoot temps, too late. It can only be done under load to be accurate. I believe 10* delta would be acceptable, less than that - marginal. 20-30* would indicate system more than adequate. DISCLAIMER: I have not checked my cars, only heavy duty diesels. John

Typical manual temperature gauge, filled with ether type stuff, ether leaks out and gauge quits working.

I've seen old pics of tags mounted on front fender.

What is under the big nut with the key thru it? What is it's function?

Try rotating the engine a little one way or the other to see if chain tension changes to allow alignment.

Try as I might, I cannot picture MrEarl in bell bottoms!

Man! What brand is that stuff?

a what?

I will bet they got sugared instead of overheated. (That keeps your response relevant) It was.

Go get your gas can, pour some in a glass, stir it some "powdered sugar" and report back with results. Then heat it to a rolling boil, report back with results.

If you don't believe, go get your gas can, pour out a glass full and stir in some sugar. After the test, come back and post your results.

Never mind, like you said, it is late. 1 day late. I'm bored!

Me thinks it is functional, just not like you think.

This is funny! Why did we have this conversation anyway? I re-read the entire thread and realized you had answered my first question 3 hrs later with 2 videos, somehow I had completely missed that. Carry on! Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain!

Now I am the one that doesn't understand, but I don't need to. 😉

Quote: "The transmission drive gear is supported by a ball bearing seated in front wall of transmission case. The ball bearing, which is shielded on rearward side, is pressed against a shoulder on main drive gear and held in place by an oil slinger, washer, and retainer (snap ring) . The outer race of the bearing is grooved for a snap ring which fits between transmission case and flywheel housing to hold bearing and main drive gear in place." From 55 shop manual, pg 4-14

Let me rephrase this: The cut of the gears is causing the end thrust of the assembly, something has to hold the assembly in the case. I will look in the manual. John