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Everything posted by TexasJohn55

  1. Codes? Have you put a scanner on it and read the codes and live data stream? Sounds like it may be the Idle Speed Control but would likely continue to run with throttle held open if that was the cause. Huge vacuum leak would cause what you are seeing. Need a live data stream to diagnose with associated codes.
  2. Uhhh, it ain't practible. Never heard of rebuilding tie rods and ball joints from that era car.
  3. Mostly original car with 23K would not need the whole front end rebuilt.....Just sayin'
  4. Bernie, my '55 264 2v showed similar results with one bank lower than other, wondered why but it runs OK. Pretty sure it has been rebuilt also.
  5. Captain Obvious, Thank you from someone myself who has felt like a total rube sometimes. I think this has happened to all of us when we assume things without testing. (All of this typed while smiling.)
  6. X2: You da man Willie. Thanks for that.
  7. I had an ISC cause mine to start up and die repeatedly, would run if throttle was held open slightly. I tapped on it, unplugged and reconnected, fixed it, hasn't done it again. I could see it also causing an abnormally low idle and die. Mine only did it that one day on startup, was running fine when parked last time. You may want to consider connecting a vacuum guage and see if it is normal in range or possibly fluctuating which would indicate a leak at the intake manifold base gasket. An inline spark test would indicate if it was spark related, an inductive pickup timing light works even better and quicker. I drove my '88 for a yr or two without a cam magnet and light on but it never idled rough or affected fuel economy. I also question whether an O2 sensor could cause what you describe. My most often problem is simple tune, either plugs and wires or an occassional coil failure. I tend to run my plugs too many miles and start picking up high load-low rpm miss, then I know it is time to look at the plugs and wires. In the many miles I have put on 3800 engines, I have never had fuel injection problems, Knock on wood.
  8. My 1st car was a 55 Buick Special and I can tell you it was QUIET. At idle, you sometimes thought it had died.
  9. Nope, not yet. Money is the only reason at this point, storage and a big shop would be the other.
  10. Me too Ben. When I get online, my shortcut takes me directly to Activity stream or What's New. Here is the address I use. http://forums.aaca.org/activity.php
  11. Must be the rare "mirror edition", even the engine is in backward.
  12. Dry and gummy. Had to remove all door panels on mine and spray with WD40. You might get enough sprayed in around the door latch area to do some good.
  13. Maybe that is what they call "Puke Green":rolleyes:
  14. Since you brought it up, what is your vacuum at idle? Cap off vacuum to booster and note if vacuum changes or idle speed and quality changes. If booster is leaking, you may notice major changes when pedal is applied vs pedal up.
  15. Mike, if the vanes were not broken there is likely something else going on besides just worn out. They may be salvageable after a 2nd look inside, maybe stuck flow control or something.
  16. Mike, your English is fine, change pill colors.
  17. Mike, you are correct, the drill spotted ends face inward to the spring and the smooth faces out to contact big washer on both sides. Drill spots both sides face the spring and each other. If I remember correctly, the pump vane body can be flipped over and will not pump. I will consult manual for clues on that. John Page 272, 8-26. Cast arrow on rotor housing should point in direction of rotation; clockwise as viewed from front of pump.
  18. What is your definition of standard hardware grade bolts? (OK, I see you edited post to specify grade 8. Those are high strength bolts.)
  19. Brake shoes are supposed to be installed by pushing both wheel cylinder pistons to near center of the wheel cylinder. When both shoes are resting against the anchor pin AND both wheel cylinder pins and pistons pushed in, the shoes are resting on the "pads" of the backing plate and held in place by the retainer pins and springs. With star wheel adjusted to it's shortest length, the drum should slide on easily. Having said all that, it is my opinion that the piston cannot push the cup off the wheel cylinder unless shoes are incorrectly anchored or you have a mismatch of components somewhere. The piston and rubber cannot blow out unless there is too much travel of the shoes upon application of the pedal.