TexasJohn55

I really hope that they do not compare, still it is a truck chassis, a fancied up suburban (Tahoe XL?).

I own a '97 Chev K2500 Suburban diesel, it sure does ride like a truck!

I don't have a clue, don't you have a book or a fuse panel legend at the panel? You are in the right forum, maybe someone who can help will check in. I know nothing about the marque, just trying to get you headed the right direction. You may have to consult a wiring diagram.

I am looking for feedback on satisfaction of your electric wiper kits. Specifically, how does the windshield sweep area compare to original vacuum wipers? John

Sounds like a blown fuse, no power to switch?

I understood the quote, "people who are NOT misbehaving" to represent those whose innocent contributions on the thread were deleted along with the entire thread.

Don't assume your hardware is all original, measure drums, are they 12"? Are the shoes (metal part) the same? The shoe lining will be one long and one short. The shoes should measure the same width as the inside of the drum and should fit if laid inside. If there a large gap in the middle of the lining while the ends are in firm contact, the shoes should be arced to fit. PS: The shoe with the shorter lining always goes to the front.

your local auto parts stores are not likely to have them, maybe napa has the right ones.

Auto Zone shows 2 different shoes, one std and one power brakes. 2.25 vs 2.5 width. This is front brakes. Rear show 2.25" x 12". Front 2.5" are pn 419 rear are pn 197.

Yes, proofreading is good.

Is that thick or thin?

Not yet, we don't.

Too bad I'm not in the market for a Reatta, I might drive up there and buy it.

Agreed

I think your asking 2K is not unreasonable if I were looking to buy a Reatta.

You must have room for the bolts to go back in.

Only here in the States, plenty here in Texas. Would be easier to find parts locally or at least in your country. Do you have google search?

Can you keep it square? If it were me, I would replace it and braces. Can you keep it square? The sleeve is not an issue, But it would be a brilliant method of squaring up the flange. If you had a tube sleeve which snuggly fit around the outside diameter of the torque tube, cut both ends square on a lathe, install it on the torque tube to touch the backside of the flange when in position to weld. Clean up both faces of the flange with a file and measure the thickness of the flange at several equidistant points to be sure it is square. Tack weld it at 4 points inside. Check that it is still square. Remove or hack saw the alignment sleeve so you can access to finish welding on the outside. Re-read this slowly to grasp the idea behind the suggestion. It could be done another way with the same idea for alignment. If it were me, I would replace tube and braces. John

So you are saying this extra thread to warn us of a spammer is going to clog up the forum? 🤣

It will be hard to get it welded back in place without sophisticated equipment to hold it in perfect alignment. The critical part is to keep the flange faces perfectly square with each other. If not square, the tension will break it again. I would replace the tube AND the braces. John

"Welding"

Nope. Came to Texas in '69 and had to learn new words like tank, as in stock tank, (pond), chunk and tote! I knew a stock tank as a galvanized metal open top tank. I asked a friend how he could catch any big bass out of a 200 gal tank.!

You probably won't believe this, I had never even heard of Burgoo, maybe we were too far south.🙂🙂 Funny, my PC just underlined Burgoo as a spelling mistake.

No! Say it ain't true! I grew up in Bowling Green Ky and it was south of the Mason Dixon. Next thing is they will deny the South ever existed. Marty, You have assimilated very well!

Wow, that looks like overkill. Do you have a guage? It may overcool without reducing radiator load from OEM cooler. With 2 coolers, you may not need airflow from fan but don't change it if it works for you.