TexasJohn55

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Everything posted by TexasJohn55

  1. Heat builds AT THE BAD CONNECTION. The fuse holder is the problem. I have seen inline 30 amp fuse holders burn up completely and the fuse was still good. It could be corrosion or even one solder joint at the fuse contact spade. Once, I had my 10 amp battery charger get one of the battery lead wires cut. I skinned it back and twisted the two ends back together. Thereafter, when I used the charger, the connection got too hot to touch. After twisting and soldering the connection, no more heat.
  2. Some dealers like to use bonded titles. They pay a bonding fee and put whatever they want on the title. My title has my engine # on it because he chose it instead of the vin. I think if the origin or title info is not readily available, they use the engine because it is not likely to be traced back if the car was stolen or imported without documentation. After 1 or 2 yrs, you have the option to renew bonding or let it ride. You would have to do a title search with the DOT using the vin to determine is there is a lien or stolen reported. Good luck.
  3. Well, cheers to everyone who suggested there was something loose up front. By the way, the bell housing has to be removed to remove the clutch and flywheel.Wasn't that step one? Correct me if I am wrong please.
  4. Maybe your navigator took her for a spin.
  5. "We got here after 11 hours of driving approximately 700 miles" LEADFOOT! That's pretty good time in a '55!.
  6. My '55 Special book (264) says to lower idle to 350 rpm to adjust timing and then reset to 450 rpm. It also has a timing advance chart for mechanical and vacuum advance at all rpms, Neat.
  7. Maybe it is a bad case of "cowl shake", after all it is a convertible. Have you checked the crank thrust ???
  8. Al, Please do not try to flush and clean topside with gasoline or mix, if you must clean it, use only a shop vac to pick up any crust while dislodging it. Flushing with gasoline or any cleaner that dries quickly takes all the protective oil film off everything. If it gets in any bearings for the cam and crank, you can easily fail the bearings on startup. Pulling the oil pan and doing a clean up is almost risk free as long as you don't spray any cleaner up inside. Remember, without a full flow oil filter, any crust and sludge that is broken loose and falls into oil pan will be picked up and sucked into the oil pump and goes straight to the bearings. You can cause alot of damage in a short time. A bypass filter will not save it from destruction. As for cooling system flushing, plain water is good. If it has a heater, you can stick a garden hose in each one with radiator drain plug out and fill system then start it up with hose turned on full. Alternate between the hoses to reverse flow until it runs clear. You CANNOT get all the rust, scale and sediment out by flushing. The best way is to remove all the core plugs and dig it out first and stick a nozzle in there to flush it out. After new plugs are put in then you can do a running flush with drain and radiator cap open. To get maximum flow and cleaning, you need to remove thermostat while flushing.
  9. If you have eliminated the clutch and motor mounts then you don't have a problem. Have you measured the crankshaft end play/thrust? Have you put it against a tree and tried to smoothly engage clutch? Bernie wasn't just having fun with you, it is a good way to check it.Be sure to have someone watch the engine to see if it flops like a fish.
  10. Kinda sounds like a u-joint failure, maybe in the tail housing. Check for cracked tailshaft housing or damage there causing massive leak.
  11. Assume nothing until you put a meter on the battery, first with engine off to check battery-should be 12.5-12.7v on hot battery, then crank it up and check idling, should be in the 13.5v range. Turn on lights and heater blower and recheck to see if it holds at or above base battery voltage of 12.5. Volt meter in dash may show low like my '88 olds which only shows appx 12.9 on highway.
  12. It shakes like a hound dog sh---ing peach seeds! I bet if you raised the hood and watched, you would see the engine flopping like a fish when trying to take off.
  13. Clutch chatter, once fully engaged, it is ok. Stuff is moving around and affecting the clutch linkage. As the engine torques over, angles change and clutch linkage and engagement cannot be controlled. I suspect you could feel the clutch pedal pulsing also. I would check crankshaft end play just for grins, 1/8" end play might cause problems.
  14. Are you running an electric pump or the original mechanical pump? If the fuel pressure is too high, it can overcome the carb needle and blow it off seat causing flooding. You may need to check fuel pressure at the carb, if it is in spec, the problem is in the carb.
  15. Good to know, thanks for the feedback.
  16. The harmonic balancer will not cause this problem. The inner member has the slots for the crank sensor, the outer member driven by the rubber is mounted on a bearing and will not wobble even with the rubber ripped out, it will only knock at idle. I have had failure on 2 different cars that knocked but ran just fine. I have had idle problems, one was the ISC gummed up and needed cleaning. The other was surging and dying at idle, it was the MAF sensor..
  17. Type A, Dexron, Dexron 2, Dexron 3, Dexron/Mercon. Listed in reverse order of availability, Type A was original, not sure you can still find it.
  18. You mentioned shudder and slow pick up. That could also be due to the drive clutch pack not holding on acceleration which could be the piston seal or low fluid pressure. A low fluid level might also cavitate the pump momentarily and sucking air and drop the line pressure which holds in the drive clutch. If it accelerates better under light to moderate throttle and shudders when throttled harder, that might be the clutch pack slipping. I am assuming this only happens in Drive and not in Low range. Tell us more history.
  19. Have you taken it back to him after failure and had it re-checked?
  20. Pete, that looks to me like a Detroit Diesel 2 cycle diesel fuel injector. Maybe it was a Master to check calibration of the test stand? Common engine models that used this style would be the inline and vee series 53, 6-71, 8v71, 12v71 etc. ( The supercharged inline 6-71 was commonly called a 238 for it's hp rating and the 8vee71 was called a 318. Note that the series designation was for the number of cylinders + engine config + cubic inch per cylinder, thus a 6-71 had 426ci and the 8v71 had 568ci.)
  21. Ronnie and I were typing at the same time.