TexasJohn55

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Everything posted by TexasJohn55

  1. Installed new rebuilt pump this morning, still ok cold, haven't driven enough to get good and hot yet. Will update in a few days.
  2. "All the main and connecting rods were trashed as was the crank surface. Evidently whoever "rebuilt" the engine installed all the pistons backwards which had the oil spurt holes oiling the inside of the block instead of the crankshaft. I had to completely rebuild the entire motor correctly this time." Me thinks that the oil spurt holes are on the rods, usually to oil the wrist pins. Reversing the rods or pistons should have no ill effect on the rod and main bearings.........But I could be wrong, I am not intimate with that particular engine. Trashed bearings are usually caused by "trash", as in filtering failure or severe low oil level,etc. I probably should have stayed out of this because it may not be relevant as to what caused your failure or to Pete's issues.
  3. Not a Reatta but similar systems. '98 Olds 88 w/3800. Rebuilt power rack and pinion steering unit after developing a leak past the input shaft seal on top. This was early 2014 and it worked fine. Had a small leak at pump or pressure line couple months later that I had put off fixing. June of 2014 I installed a rebuilt pump and new pressure line, still ok.A couple weeks ago the car lost steering at idle, was 1 pint low on fluid. It had not started whining any more than usual like is normal when low. Topped off fluid and regained steering assist but it didn't feel quite right. A couple times on the way home it tried to lose assist at idle but would free up with a little rpm. Wife has been driving 2 weeks. Today it was fine when she left for errands but after it warmed up she lost steering at idle again. I checked it as soon as she wrestled it into the driveway. You could not turn it at idle, was better when revved up but still hard to turn. I let it cool down for 3 hrs and rechecked, seemed ok cold but loses assist after it's hot. Pump has lifetime warranty so I am going to replace pump first, then steering box if that doesn't fix it. I will keep you updated after I determine whether it was low pump capacity or steering rack bypassing. It does not slip the belt, it has no pressure switch or cooler, it is still full.If anyone has experienced this, I would be glad to hear about it. The only other symptom I had noticed was that when turning hard either direction while backing up I would feel a "shift" or tug on the steering wheel as I was close to steering stop/max turn. I felt it again when easing forward as I started to straighten up. I checked for loose suspension, steering mounting,tie rods etc. I felt like the whole subframe was shifting when wheels were dragging each other sideways. I don't know when this started, just something I had noticed. It may have been after resealing the steering rack..? I have always had what I consider abnormal shoulder wear on front tires and it is not driven aggressively. I usually have to junk tires with 50% tread because the shoulders wear thru from front end. Alignment did not help.
  4. Don't know John, probably bought it at A.Z.. It calls for an A974C AC Delco. Just a rectangular pleated element, appx 7 5/8 x 6" with wire mesh support screen on clean air side.
  5. Don't think so, backfire could not get thru honeycomb and to the air filter anyway, it is a good 14" to air cleaner. Fire appeared to start on "dirty air" side of filter. In the years I drove it, it never backfired, only miss under load with bad wires or coil which is not happening now.
  6. Without stating exact specs, 40 is close enough, 20 don't get it. You may see a little less with vacuum on regulator at idle.
  7. The fire started in the air filter pleats and burned appx 1/3 of surface area. No electrical or external signs. He couldn't see anything wrong, sis told him it had been smoking at the air filter box after it died, when he opened it up he found the damage. Son said maybe a hot ember also...? The snorkel was not damaged. She drove it 75 mi home and is still driving it with the MAF unplugged and I am rounding up parts to fix it.
  8. Update: Son said the fire started on the dirty air intake side at the snorkel, no foreign material found, air cleaner was clean. Melted plastic air box and damaged AIT sensor. Honeycomb melted and ingested. Wouldn't start because of bad connection on ground post of side terminal. He cleaned out what was left of the honeycomb and cleaned the MAF. It ran at 2000 when cranked up so he had to disconnect the MAF. He thinks it may run ok with a new honeycomb. Can't get pics to upload.
  9. I wanted to start here as it seems to be the best place for 3800 questions. Daughter just had her '88 Olds 3800 quit running and called her brother who lived closer than me. She said that guages were normal, only thing she noticed was the volt meter bouncing when it died and wouldn't restart. My son sent me pictures of the air cleaner partially burned and the honey-comb melted on the intake. He did finally get it cranked up and to the house. I will try to upload pics. Anyone ever heard of this happening?.
  10. Put a scanner on it first and retrieve all recorded codes. Then read active data stream cold and hot to see if temps for coolant and intake air temp seem normal. You can read alot of data, get someone who is familiar with data stream readings to give an opinion on them. Don't know if your engine and trans symptoms are related or not.
  11. You are right of course, I was thinking backward, I replaced some axles and ran into that problem with the tonewheels.
  12. But the tonewheel does. You need them if you have ABS.
  13. Confirm temperature with an infrared temp gun or leave cap off and warm it up with another guage bulb in the top of the radiator. Premium fuel does not have the high octane rating as it did in years past before no-lead. It likely requires at least 93 octane. Todays premium needs a timing adjustment. Check timing by the book, back it off 2* and drive it. If necessary, back off another 2*. Start first at factory spec and retard until it quits pinging. Be sure you check the vacuum advance unit to be sure it advances and retards with change in vacuum.
  14. Well, when you get your fuel pressure guage and a spark tester, you will likely figure it out quickly.
  15. Just a thought, have you tried holding the throttle down a little while trying to start it?
  16. A sticky injector just doesn't make sense to me. It would not dump all the fuel pressure while pump is running, it would only give maybe a puff of black smoke on startup. If the fuel rail drained, it would refill quickly and would have the same symptom cold or hot. As for pulling the rails with the injectors, that is no piece of cake, makes me wonder if rp1967 has actually ever done that. Not sure that it is even possible to remove and maintain pressurization.
  17. Probably the gear on the motor, could be both.
  18. A cracked/broken flexplate is also a possibility. The starter gear is visible with the flywheel cover off.Once you get it running again, you will be able to watch starter gear mesh with ring gear and see if it retracts when starter is disengaged. You will need someone to start it while you watch.. I can't play the video, I don't have Flash Player or HTML5, wish I could.
  19. Please refer to post #6. Has the ring gear been rubbing on the cover you removed, is there a shiny pattern inside? Are the transmission mounting bolts tight to the engine? Have you removed the linkage from the shift lever and determined what is tight? How much distance is there from the ring gear to the starter pinion gear? If you just bump the starter, does it return to a safe clearance from the ring gear? None of these require the engine to be running or trans pan be put back up. I have yet to understand how mounts can cause the noise issue if the fan is not rubbing and the car is not moving. Mount problems can cause linkage binding, alignment issues and shifter issues. It is possible that you have a failure in the torque converter and some pieces are floating around. Also check to be sure your engine oil dipstick is not hitting something when running. Drain the converter and watch for any metal particles. Clean the pan and screen and change the fluid. Refill to capacity given in manual except 2 pints and start it up again. Top off after running.
  20. Parking pawl can't click if the car is not rolling.
  21. Could be the flexplate ring gear rubbing the cover. I would also check all the trans mounting bolts to the engine to be sure they are tight. Disconnect shift linkage at the trans lever and operate both independently to see what is tight.
  22. Robert, I read somewhere that the Chicago area and Michigan in general had the highest auto insurance rates in the Country due to the requirement for Personal Injury protection, how is that working out?
  23. I like your model, she doesn't look like a 1952 though.