TexasJohn55

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Everything posted by TexasJohn55

  1. Throw-out as in clutch release bearing? If it is not 18 or 21 yrs old, it ain't legal for it to smoke.Like electrical components, they are sealed units and are no good after all the smoke leaks out.
  2. Mud, do you oven bake any parts that you paint?
  3. I doubt that any of those smaller companies have their own refineries, there is not one on every corner. You would have to do high volume business to have your own oils blended. Do you think they just pick a blend and additive package and relabel it for sale under private name? Food for thought for those that have more insight into the market place and distribution aspect.
  4. After further consideration of your broken tap issue, I have seen them broken up and dug out in pieces but that also is a hit or miss deal. I assume those are small bolts around 5/16" size, that makes it more difficult as well. I have seen bolts removed from holes with a small tipped cutting torch but I never was that proficient at it. The idea is to heat it very quickly to the melting point and then blow it out in a molten state. The trick is to heat it very quickly while the block is cold and acts as a heat sink and does little damage to the cast iron. Again, the small size makes that difficult unless you have a very small cutting head. If you find a bit or cutter that will cut the tap material, bore dead center of the tap body and remove enough material that the flutes can be broken off. But oh yeah, you already said the block was "kaplewy" didn't you? I am surprised someone else has not chimed in with ideas on the 2 engines.
  5. I will take a shot at this. First of all, your block with the tap broken off in it is salvageable unless you really did a number on it. Get a high speed die grinder with a 1/8th collet. Go to Handy Dan or comparable place and find the Dremel bits. You need a carbide cutter with fluted straight sides and rounded on the end also with flutes. That bit will cut nearly anything and should be small enough to work on that tap. If you can get in the flute cavity and cut it into pieces you may get it out. If you grind straight in and cut out some threads, it will not substantially weaken the bolts clamping ability. When you get the tap out you can helicoil the hole if you like. I recommend you buy at least 2 bits as you will break one if you are new to this operation. I have successfully salvaged many heads that had exhaust bolts broken off this way. If you used a carbide tap, that could be a problem. High speed steel is somewhat softer. Those dremel bits are around 8-$10 apiece. Secondly, if that #5 cylinder had no compression but looks ok, have another look at the valves. Pour some thin liquid in each port and physically check them for leakage or warpage. As for pushing that piston out, why not? New rings will seat in a good cylinder but a light honing would be preferable. You will know if you have a problem with the rings when you push it out, but you still have an issue with 2 head bolts to get out. That is a drilling job and get dead center and sized for a big eazyout. You will still have to soak it to get it to turn. An alternate method would be to super heat it and it might loosen. If the top is exposed above deck level, you can weld a big nut to it for leverage. I like the idea of salvaging the first block if possible. Remove head bolts from second block as a back up if the valves are bad in #5. Good luck.
  6. I will chime in on the springs. They do go behind the door panel and are to keep the panel snug to the window crank handle. My 69 Pontiac has them.
  7. I would recommend turning the engine through 2 revolutions by hand with a socket on the crank center bolt. This will allow you to feel any hard resistance when turning which could be stuck valves. If you use the starter and a valve is stuck open, you can easily bend valves.
  8. Even a washing machine needs an agitator.
  9. James, I don't see the harm in that unless you leave it in Park. Dynaflows have that rear pump, should be safe at any speed in Neutral. Put it in drive if you want to spin the engine for Power steering and a/c! John
  10. Have you removed the plate at the bottom of the column and inspected the steering shaft to see if it has a brass slipring on it? The steering column has to be removed to replace it; NOT AN EASY JOB. You may have to add a short extension to the wire if it was cut, or solder in a complete new wire.
  11. With the horn button already off you have access to the top end of the wire, it also has to be isolated from the steering shaft.
  12. Also do a continuity test from the brass sleeve to the column, this should definitively determine if the short is in the column. Remember, the upper end of the wire in the column must also be insulated from grounding.
  13. :cool: Bernie, you're a Hoot! Did you ever appear on the Benny Hill Show?
  14. http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/intrinsic http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/conflate
  15. You have reduced the heat load on the cooling system, that explains the cooler temps. To each his own but that engine is running too cold, needs the factory stat put in if the cooling system is good. When the heater core flow becomes restricted from old age rust and scale, you will need that extra heat when it is 20* outside.
  16. Makes sense to me, the 56 dynaflow I put in my '55 Special was 1" longer also. But the added length was on the front, the bell housing was an additional 1" deeper incorporating the additional length that the convertor extended out the front. Can't speak to the big car transmissions, I think it has been said all 56's were the same length.??
  17. Ronnie, Did you add a cooler in front of the radiator in conjunction with the radiator cooler?
  18. School me here. I thought that the O2 sensor determined closed loop operation and that engine temp affected idle rpm and inj pulse width when cold. Can temps below 159 kick system into open loop? I have noticed that temp on my '88 below appx 145 will disable lockup. If the system is switching back and forth into closed loop with the O2 sensor maybe it has an intermittent signal? Of course I would think it would throw a code. Hmmmmm....
  19. Again, speaking only for myself. I think you miss the point. Most users seem to rely on it for bringing an engine back into service after an extended time of storage or neglect. To that end, it works well as a treatment used once or twice to unstick, decarbon or dissolve varnish on pistons, rings, valves, lifters, etc. I personally don't use it after the engine has been brought back to a reliable operating state. I also do not use it in my more modern daily drivers unless something develops that might be corrected with a treatment. I have never been one to randomly use additives in the oil or gasoline except Sta-bil for gasoline storage. Most additives marketed do little except drive up the cost of maintenance and offer some folks a little peace of mind. A "placebo" of sorts. Just my opinion.
  20. Speaking only for myself, I use it for it's ability to dissolve varnish and carbon, not for it's lubricating qualities. Obviously it is thin and not to be used as a primary lubricant, too much added to the crankcase can cause lubrication failure just like adding gasoline to the oil. When dribbled into the intake or carburetor, it can free up gummy valve stems while providing some lubrication as well.
  21. Be very careful using the aforementioned seal puller, you can easily scratch the crankshaft seal surface. A better method is to use a small drill bit, smaller than an 1/8 inch, drill two opposing holes in the metal seal face, being careful to not touch the crank or the seal bore, install 2 appropriate size metal screws and gently pry under the screw heads to ease the seal out of the bore. A slide hammer with screw tips works better if you have that setup. If the seal shows no leakage, it may be best to leave it alone.
  22. OK, Try unplugging the wire from the connector at the plate on the lower column, touch the end of the wire to the brass sleeve to see if the horn still blows. You may have to fashion an extension to the wire terminal to accomplish this. If the horn still blows, the problem is in the column or horn button switch. If the horn does not blow, re-attach the lower plate with the spring loaded button and then plug in the wire, if the horn blows, then the spring button is grounded to the plate. I believe that the spring loaded brush pin must be isolated from the plate.