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TexasJohn55

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Everything posted by TexasJohn55

  1. On my screen the blue is paler than pastel. I just now noticed that there is also a blue border on either side of the screen and between each post. The only thing blue that stands out is the + and submit reply.
  2. I wonder if others have the same impression, it is tiring having to read all the post quoted and make sense of where the response begins.
  3. NO FAIR, YOU USED CAPS. I think the issue is that the blue background of the quote box is so pale, seems the quote used to be "boxed".
  4. OP has not visited site since afternoon on day posted, Wednesday. He may have found problem. It would be nice to get feedback from someone who asked for help.
  5. IT IS "SHEEESH" IN TEXAS IF WILLIE SAID SO!
  6. Do my eyes deceive me? It looks like that grease seal in the rotor hub is in backward, if it is, is the rotor seated on the spindle? John
  7. I cannot distinguish where quoted content ends and new post comments begin.
  8. Oddly, there is NOT a clearance spec that I can find in the '55 shop manual. It only gives a clutch steel spec of .068"-.070" and .010-.014" dish or cone spec. No clutch fiber spec. At any rate, you can only fit 5 and 5 in a '55 assembly.
  9. Go with 5 and 5 and stop worrying about it. The piston will take up the extra travel in a nanosecond.
  10. Steel to steel is ok when keyed the same, they spin together. I doubt you can add a steel and still assemble it to install the 3 wedges and snap ring, the stack will be too thick. If by some miracle you get it assembled, will it have operating clearance for clutches? They must be loose without dragging. ( And then you think the new clutches will grow, how much?)
  11. You are not considering that there is a clearance spec on clutch pack. The clutch has to be assembled. If you have too many discs, you will not be able to assemble unit and install the 3 wedges and snap ring. You must be able to wiggle the clutch discs after assembled. Don't forget, all the steels are waved and must be installed facing the same direction. Refer to the shop manual pages 189,190 and 191 or 5-49,5-50 and 5-51. It is obvious that you will have to use 5 and 5 in the order the shop manual designates, you cannot add an extra steel, that would put steel to steel when engaging.
  12. I just had to share this. I bought a parts car to keep it from getting crushed. After putting in a radiator and hoses, clocking distributor with new points and condensor, freeing up starter, removing plugs for inspection and replacement,( I spun it by hand before investing time in it) spun it by starter till it built oil pressure. Did a compression test, had enough to eliminate a dead hole. Dropped fuel line off electric pump into a bucket and fired it up. Within a minute it ran smooth, no knocks or rattles, lifters good. I let it warm up and dropped it in gear, dynaflow pulled good all gears and no whine. Can you beat that for a junker sitting in a field since the 80's? And the engine has 150 psi on all cyls except one which is 125. It actually sounds better than mine. I pulled the engine and trans. Ordered parts to reseal trans. Resealed and adjusted both bands. Re-used later style vulcanized torque ball retainer and improvised a dust seal over it. Pulled the '56 trans out of my car and installed this one. Road tested and it pulled good and no leaks yet. How's that for luck? This is the first post since forum software update, I am at the library. My home pc is not functional on forum except to recognize me and use the 'like' button. I cannot respond to this post on a regular basis. Just wanted to share this.
  13. In addition to above info: Fan clutches are matched to the fan blade, engine rpm (gearing) and desired operating temp range. I once owned an '82 Suburban with the 6.2 diesel and HD cooling system. The factory thermal fan clutch worked so well, you might think it was being "switched" on and off. It only ran when pulling a load and then infrequently. The fan clutch was so well matched, at 8000 ft elevation or higher, it engaged and roared all the time at normal temperatures due to the thinner air and reduced drag on the fan blade. The fan clutch is designed to work with the original OEM setup, changing the fan blade may change the operating characteristics. I would also question whether the replacement clutch is a good match or just calibrated for a wide range of vehicles.
  14. Should I have said "the coolant is sealed from the bearing cavity"? Is packing not considered a seal? Do those water pumps not have weep holes to dump coolant and grease to prevent cross contamination? As a side note, soap is a thickener for the OIL based lubricant. Most greases (80-90%) use various "soaps" as the thickener. Google it.
  15. ???? The bearing cavity is sealed from the coolant.
  16. Do some basic troubleshooting first. Check and record codes. Do basic tune up with new plugs and wires. Buy a cheap fuel pressure guage and check fuel pressure. If engine has a misfire/ running rough, get a spark tester to determine if you have a coil pak failure which will affect 1 or 2 cylinders. Each coil fires 2 cylinders. Do not start swapping out parts or converter until you have done basics and determined what the problem is.
  17. Not enough info to help you. Go to local auto parts store and have them check for codes. If "check engine" light is on, you have an active problem. Too vague to guess whether it is engine related or not.
  18. Sounds like a classic case of evaporator freeze up. This can happen when the system is low on freon and there is limited air flow across the evaporator such as fan speed set to low setting such as on long trip after cabin has cooled down. The evaporator is eventually covered with ice and air flow reduced even further. The other scenario is that the low freon causes the compressor to cycle off too frequently and reduces cooling. Either way, add a can of freon.
  19. 2carb40, Actually my rear wheels look to be centered in the wheel wells and an inch forward would look odd in my mind. I don't recall any other areas of concern, it just moved everything back 1". The extra length of the '56 trans over the 55 is the bell hsg (and corresponding converter).
  20. I put a '56 dynaflow in my '55 Special. I removed it from my '55 Century parts car! Then found out it was a 56 trans with alum bell hsg and 1" longer. Install in the 55 Special was routine, only slotted some holes and used same crossmember. The '56 ujoint will need to be replaced with the '55 to mate with driveshaft.
  21. Ronnie and 1953mack, If it is any consolation, I have had the same problems for months, cannot upload and icon keeps spinning, cannot add or delete any images from previous file manager. Don't recall error messages, haven't tried in months. I am on dial-up which is painfully slow but it worked in 2014. The only image I successfully uploaded lately was my profile picture. TJ55
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