pont35cpe

Are you aware that all the main journals are different diameter size, don`t mix them up. I had to shim the main bearings on my `41 248 engine.

I have never removed mine, `36 coupe 40 series, but i have the bearing(not for sale). Bearing info: New Departure 916 Disconnect the steering linkage and both tie-rods. Looks like the front pan (just above bolt head)needs to be removed. Then remove the 4 bracket bolts, knock the center bolt upward and arm and bracket, should slide on out. Good luck.

In your picture, looks like your spring hooked to the clutch pedal, should be your brake pedal return spring. Looks like you`ve got a pretty nice 2dr sedan to start with..

Welcome newbie. Dave Tacheny parts out 36-41 Buicks 763 427 3460 central time M-F 5-7pm I`ve got a `36 40 series coupe and have bought many things from Dave. Post some pictures of your `36, everybody here likes pictures. If you don`t have a Shop Manual for your car, and you plan to do your own work, get one.

Check with Dave Tacheny 763 427 3460 central time M-F 5-7pm.

FYI, it should be a 233 cu in, rebabbited rods and main bearings(also Babbit)if not already, would have to be cut/line bored to match crankshaft, also every main journal(all 5) are a different diameter.

You would have to remove water pump to see #s stamped on the head. Stamped numbers, not casting numbers. Also looks to have a Stromberg Carb.

Another cause on the door could be the diagonal rod is loose, lower horizontal wood piece rotted, and metal piece for rod becomes loose and has no tension. There was no window sweeps back then, which left a big gap for rain and trash to get inside, build up in the bottom of the door, rot the wood, and usually the lower 4" of the sheet metal.

Picture is rather dark, but kinda looks like there may be side mount bosses, 1948 was the first year for that change.

263 engine would have side mounts, water pump inlet on left front side of engine, and left side of engine there are vertical ribs on cylinders, would also have a 4bolt mounted carb. Engine duz look like early 40s. Bell housing looks like a `41 248 engine i have. picture is a 263.

Great looking ol Pontiac, don`t see many 5 windows.. Damn, i should have gotten married, so i could inherit something.

I sure hate hearing of his passing, he was the best i`ve ever dealt with. He`d take your order, send the parts with an invoice, such a trusting person. Only one other person i know of that duz that is Lester Harris Minden, Nevada. He specializes in obsolete engine and chassis parts

Yes i think so, measurements match. I think all `35 6and8cyl use the same rear fenders, not sure about `36. I know the rear of the `36 rear fender is wider probably because tail lights were moved to the fender, also the `36 rear bumper is longer. Thanks again..

That car is too nasty for only 29,000mi., maybe minimal of 129,000mi.

Thanks Bloo. Everything measures the same on the `35s, my coupes and the slant back sedans all have 7 bolts at top, my 4dr hump back has 9, it also has the highest production number, so could have been an updated factory change. There looks to be plenty of room to add a bolt in the top corners of the ones with 7 bolts. Appreciate the help. Tom

Bloo, overall length and number of bolt holes, 3 on each end to fender, and 7 across the top to body. Thank you

Found one..

I was aware of vendors playing the buy and mark-up game. It just shocked me, that people would portray themselves as vendors and buy a space, just so they could buy on set-up day, with no intention of selling.

This is what pissed me off. Did anyone notice the loaded trailer in front of the west building covered with a tarp? It was 3 guys from San Diego, they rented a vendors space so they could go thru all the sellers items (to buy) the day before the meet opened to the public.

Have a friend looking for part #4070805 RH and 4070806 LH, lock/latch assembly for 1936 Chevy steel doors.

Sounds like the insides are corroded/froze up. Take your thumb and push on the key hole, there should be some in and spring back movement, if no movement it is froze up inside. I have cut the shaft(with thin dremmel cut off wheel)) on each side of the shaft where the little slug is, remove the little lock shaft pin, then use a press to push the guts out, be careful and don`t damage the little nubbie on the end of the inner shaft, its off center, i use a solid steel dowel approx 3/16"dia and grind a groove on the side to clear the nubbie and press it out, then weld the shaft back together, grind the weld flush to shaft size, re-bore the slug hole, slug size, clean all the guts up and reassemble lubing everything. Good luck..

Once you work the arm up/down it will firm up as the fluid is pumped thru valve/passages pushing the air out, then when you change direction of the arm it should be firm immediately when changing up or down movement. You will have to top off the reservoir, once you work the air out. Also the link needs to have zero slop where it attaches to both the shock arm(rubber grommet) and the lower plate. Also the fill screw on the reservoir might be tough to get loose with a screw driver i had to use vise grips to get mine loose. Hope this helps.

Your `35 may be like my `36 rear shocks, they need to be removed, clamped in a vise to where you can move the arm up/down, install fluid, and work arm up/down to get the bubbles out. Try not to spill any fluid, because you need to check for any leak. If it leaks, they`ll be dry in no time, bad seals need to be replaced or most likely shocks need rebuilt.

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That was my first thought on the grille, but i don`t think so, ribs are vertical(?) like a `39 Buick, not horizontal, second look, maybe vertical.. Fenders/bumper are different, no silver streak down the middle, and headlights look similar to `40 Ford. Front fenders look to have a seam where maybe they were spliced. Hybrid maybe?