pont35cpe

With the little hole off to the side of the key slot, it is an ignition lock.

There is a NOS set of Dyna Flow trunk inserts on ebay. Kinda pricey. Must be a hard to find item. ebay #373373718633

Welcome Cliff.. Great find, i sure like the hardtop, and what a trailer..

The "spring looking thing" is actually the "catch" to hold the door closed.

Do you have the key for your glove compartment door lock, key is needed to remove cylinder. Picture is of a `35 Chevy glove box door/lock. Does this look similar to your lock? (1st picture) This is in the unlocked position. Then with the key inserted, you have to tilt the lock slug(2nd picture)and turn the key counterclockwise (1/8turn)and cylinder will pull out. There is a 4 digit key number stamped on the cylinder, but can only see it after removed. If no key, you may have to find an "older" locksmith that can pick it.

`38 Pontiac hood has the silverstreak down the center.

1938 Chevy car

Paul, here is a couple pictures of the one that came with my `36 coupe.

Also, your car is a "standard" not a "master".

location?

I`m pretty sure the front door latch assembly is the same for 2 and 4 doors, and all series. Back door latch assemblies are different from the front. Also a front door latch from a `35 Chevy Master(suicide doors)RH will work for a `36 drivers LH door.

My goal, is to make it to 80, and get shot by a jealous husband..

Thanks to Gregs pictures, i now know where these "2 metal pieces" i have go, but not going to use them. I plan to route a recess around the 3 openings(pedals/steering column)and use carpet padding to make a donut seal for each. I`m also modifying my dr. side floorboard by cutting a 3"dia hole for access to the master cylinder. My hole cover is what 40s GM cars had for access to master cylinder.

Paul, i have made new floor and toe boards for my `36 Buick 40series coupe. I only have the original pass. side toe board, the other pieces were missing. My original piece is 5/8" plywood and has a piece of compressed fiberboard(1/4" thick) nailed on top, this same fiber board is attached to the metal trans. cover with split rivets. I plan to use a floorboard insulation in place of the fiberboard. The toe board is installed first and the floorboard butts to it. I just noticed the original piece i have has tacks around the perimeter(underside), looks to have had a felt seal. My new boards i made with 3/4" plywood and cut a 1/8" rabbitt around the perimeter(underside), i also had to notch the underside of the driver side boards for pedal arm clearance. My driver side toe board is cut into two pieces, for pedals and steering column. Attached is some pictures, i`ll try to answer any questions you might have. First pic is of my original toe board. Tom

All those hub caps.. Is there any for a `35 Pontiac(16" artillery wheels).

1936 Oldsmobile, I think..

I tested my `36s tank/sender/gauge on the kitchen table. Original gauge, new sender, when wired up needle swept from slightly below the 1/4 mark to a little past the full mark. I just slightly tweeked the gauge needle to line up with the empty mark, then the sweep was right on, E to F.

Jermaine, there`s a pair for a `36 Buick on ebay, similar/same(?) as Pontiac. Item 174512512104

Greg, the window is on the front face outer edge of the drum. My `36 i still have the clips(covers the hole), these are usually missing. Here is a picture of a Pontiac drum, same.

Just 2wk ago i took my `82 S-10(far from pre-war) in for an alignment, after installing all new parts. I was told "that vehicle uses shims, that`d take us hours to do". I left.

My guess is a `39 Ford up front and a `50 Studebaker.

What are you refurring to "bar"?

Still looking..

Pictures?

On my `36, i used a 9/16" wrench for the lock-down eccentric nut, and a small adjustable wrench for the eccentric stud. I also just use a feeler gauge(.010)that the blade is narrow enough to fit thru the window of the brake drum to gauge clearance. Good luck..