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The question is 'Do you want to bring it back to original or continue with modification ? " It will help the guys on this thread make some contributions one way or the other. The majority of the guys on this blog are dedicated to keeping original.

You are in the right place. Welcome. In the Classic car periodical published by Hemmings are the 2 companies you are looking for . I do readily have them but I will check on my latest publication and let you know on this thread. The one I have in front of me is in Canada is Don Graham, 964 Will Johnson Road, RR1 Frankford , K0K2C0, edj.rad56@yahoo.ca He did a lot of research on the types of antifreeze. They are not equal. Cheers.

Do you mean the block heater in the frost plug ? No problem. If it leaks after cleaning just replace the coils. It was about to leak any way. To flush cooling system remove thermostat and use garden hose with engine running

I used evaporust all the time. It safe on your hands and environment friendly. When the colour changes to black it is ineffective. It does not damage gaskets or rubber It softens hard rubber.Vinegar might do the same. One old gentle man told me his Ford carburetor was sucking transmission fluid from the tranny and his valve cover was clean as a whistle If you decide to store a radiator for long term it is best to fill it with Automatic transmission oil. Cannot beat it.

I am looking to buy horse hair for stuffing seat in an old car. Please PM me with contacts Thank you.

I think I figured it out.The material is laminated with several ,may be 15 or more layers of the /or similar material used under asphalt shingles. The piece is then pressed on a mold to form the wheel well. Look at the picture closely and you will see the mohair folded and sewn around the panel. Now I will have to rattle my brain (I do not have much left since I am 83 and a half years old) how to overcome this problem. I will keep you posted.

Looking at the picture of those brake lines they resemble the lines on my 1928 D B Senior. I bought them on evil bay as new reproductions. There were some concerns about whether the insurance companies will accept them. Old cast iron cylinders are not the best to hone unless you have precise instruments to measure. They must be 99 percent equal all round . Then you have to hunt for oversize rubbers which might be difficult to find. Honing cylinder and matching rubber has to be precise. I learned that years ago with my 62 Land rover in spite of warnings from experts. The best thing is to sleeve master and wheel cylinders to original with either stainless steel or brass and use new rubbers. I came across an article about that in this September Issue of Hemmings . I had all my cylinders relined and honed to original .

The panels on the doors are flat and it looks like a heavy card board used in home construction. (Hard board ? ) come in 4x8 sheets . The originals were not well fitted to the doors and that tells me the workers were probably doing piece work.. I Have it down pat. They are nailed to the doors with 1/2 inch headless nails. At the edge of the doors there are slots with a 1/2 square wood inside. I would like to show a picture of those wood but it does not show well. On the 4 doors panels, in the center are fabrics sewn pockets onto the card board panels. Must have used a giant sewing machine. The sticky part are the two panels in the back against the wheel well where in some places the material lays flat and it is pronouncedly bumpy on the wheel well. I think you guys are on track when you say it looks like the sheets under roof shingles. Here and there I can see the different layers unravelling. It is a challenge but I am not going to make that a problem. You can see the dimple of the wheel well on the top with the rusty shade. This one is for the left side

I would like to see a picture of the sending unit if you have one. If it is anything like mine on the 28 DB Senior made by North East Electrical, it has an internal ground wire. that is possibly broken. Skippy reading ? you can probably replace the windings yourself,

Thank you all mates. That is good advice.

Sounds like a good idea. A good machinist will be able to that . If you have a good press you should be able to push out the shaft and interchanged them but it is more work . Comutaters, field coils and shaft are all separate at the factory A worker will press them in place .

Thank you John for the tip. They have a good web site but I did not find what I want. I will go the route of Rusty_Otoole Cheers.

I remember solid copper gaskets in 4 cylinders British engines. It can be reused by cleaning and heating over a coal fire. The copper swells . but I do not think that will work on a straight 8. If the head and the block is true an asbestos /copper gasket needs no sealer. What you have to watch out for is some of the head bolts or studs might be touching the water in the water jacket and seeps through the threads. Use some kind of sealer on those threads.

This petronics business has been discussed before and the response was not favourable. I worked for a national transport company and was in charge of 50 forklifts, all Japanese. Boy are they finicky when it comes to electrical especially ignition. Pay particular attention to the ignition coil. I replaced all the points with petronics and every driver was complaining the lack of power. I had to replace with contact points. I think the ignition coil was too hot. I say this because on British sports Cars there are publications advocating HOT coils over 45 k volts. Regular coils rate maybe 25 to 30 kv. What is the rating of a 6 volt ignition coil ? 25 KV. I do not know. The big question is the ignition in a 6 volt system compatible with Petronics ? May be loss of power at certain speeds.

Welcome to the club. You are in the right place. Cheers.

I am not familiar with your model car. Where is your oil gauge located ? My gauge is on the dash . A clock type and an oil line from the block is attached to the back. I was just suggesting if there is any possibility of modifying. or you might to prefer to keep it original.

I am familiar with the Watson. Use the old hardware from the belt and rivet the new belt . No big deal.. Mark the position of the cover before removing. .BEFORE REMOVING COVER YOU MUST NEUTRALIZE THE SPRING . To do this remove the hex cover on the back. Use a large open end spanner and turn the big nut left or right until the locking pin feels loose.Then pull the pin out. It then becomes safe to remove the cover. That big nut at the back is made of blue brittle metal and can break easily. Stainless steel ones are now available.

Can you find an oil gallery some where and install a pipe and an oil gauge ? I do not know if the older Dodges has oil pump.

Grounding the wire at the sending unit will make the dash gauge needle go up or down depending on the make. The best thing to do is to remove the sender from the tank and use a multi meter and check to see if the sender works. Do that by moving the float lever up or down. It should have a continuous reading from low to high. If the reading is skippy the wiring inside is worn and is in need of repair. The float could be saturated or leaking ( cork float ?) Bob Speedometer who advertises in the Hemmings is a good place to restore gauges.

I know this is a very busy time for you, but when ever you can spare some time can you post a picture of the 28 Chrysler brakes cylinder for me please ?. Happy vending. Harry.

The last one I got was a week ago offering to sell me a rim. It is not only DB members read articles on this forum.

I am looking for material, BACKING BOARD , for a 1928 D B upholstery. This material is a black tar soaked paper about 3/16 inch thick. It is used to cover the fender well. It lends itself to shape around the fender well. The arm rest sits on the fender well. Any luck ? Thank you.

GM has been using something on bed liners recently but it is definitely not Por 15. The Por 15 I have seen is a thick stuff. stuff. I cannot see how a paint spray can work . I used a paint brush and no cleaner will wash the brush. May be I am missing something.

If I remember correctly the instruction on the Por 15 can says it is best to paint on rust. It needs the rust to react chemically in order to be effective. What puzzles me is this product has been around the flea markets for a long time and has yet to be accepted fully by the restorers. Is it snake oil?

There is a thread somewhere on this forum , may be about 3 years ago, there was exhaustive comments. One fellow even emailed me about the negative experience he had. He was from South US. He was afraid of being sued if he went public. Any how he said he painted his frame and left in the garage for a year. When he looked, what seemed like dust was not dust. He bew the "dust" away . It was the POR paint I never used it. One thing for sure is if and when you decide to remove it will be hell . I acid dipped my running boards , primed with etching primer and used Rustoleum.