trini

I was going to tell you the same thing jrbartlet told you but he beat me to the draw

There used to be different types of oil seals in my working days, that is 65 years ago. Now I do not know how many manufacturers are still around. I remember "National" as a popular brand It supplied a sleeve with an installer for grooved shaft. I also bought something called "Rawhide " sleeves made with real leather. But the" Rawhide" seal did not turn on the shaft, They were manufactured in 2 pieces and turned inside each other where the sealing took place. I used them a lot on tractor trailer axles wheels that used oil rather than grease. I do not know if they are still around . If small ones can be obtained for old engines crankshaft in the collector hobby It will nice.

If the bolts thread protrudes in the oil it is possible the oil was seeping between the threads when hot. May be that is the reason why the previous owner put silicone and also to stick the gasket. So you are on track by getting a machinist to get a new type seal on the cover. That will take care between the seal and cover but what about between the seal lip and crankshaft ? You will carefully have to choose a seal of particular size. In my working days at a trucking company I bought regular seals that came with a Seedy Sleeve.used on worn out shafts. Rawhide seals lip does rotate on shaft but seals between the two halves. One part inside the other. . I worked with gaskets that the manufacturer says "use no sealer" as they were self sealing. My bolt seals are 3/16. My apology. It is there for you anytime.

If that works for you happy motoring. Coming back to your original question. Is the oil seeping through the bolts threads or the gaskets ? If through the bolts I had a similar situation where coolant was seeping through the threads of the bolts on my 28 Dodge Brothers Senior 6 water jacket.I was able to get special washers with a rubber lining on the inside diameter. My problem was solved. I might still have some left over 1/4 inch in size If you like I can send them to you no charge. They are available in many sizes.

That thread has been removed,

If I understand Dennis , what he said the engine was running before with the pointer on the # 1 cylinder. What he did in between he did not say. If he had removed the timing gears hoping that by reinstalling them back just by aligning the marks it is quite possible he aligned the dot for piston #4. To get it to # 1 he must rotate the cog one more time and line the dot . The cam shaft rotates at half the crankshaft rotation There are 2 solutions, neither of which I will recommend . rearranging the wires and/or rearranging the distributor drive gear. In my previous thread I stated to turn the cog 180 degrees. It should be 360 degrees. with # 1 piston on compression stroke and the valves slightly overlapping. The camshaft position in relation to the piston rules the roost.

The longest journey starts with a first step.

This is an old Nigerian scam, It goes like this . "I advertised my 62 land Rover for sale for 10,000 dollars.. " I will send you 13000 thousand cashiers check. I will send my guy to pick it up. Give him 200 thousand in cash for his troubles and send part of the extra cash by some Union thing to me. After a week the bank sends me a letter saying the check is fake and charges me 28 dollars for presenting a false check. I loose 200 thousand cash and my Land Rover plus the bank charges. "

An old rad guy showed me a piece of flat brass from a honey comb rad and asked me to look at it to see if there are holes through it. I could not see any. But looking through it against the sunlight there were lots of fine pin holes. He said he contacted about 4 of the manufacturers who sells their brands here and found what he thought is best and recommend it for old radiators and also newer ones. He said he based his findings on the chemicals used in manufacturing. He may be right but how do we know whether or not the previous owners treated the radiators gently, like changing the fluids as recommended ?

Put the number 1 piston on top stroke with the # I piston valves closed. If they are not closed turn the timing cog until valves are closed (both intake and exhaust) closed and the dots aligned That will put the rotor pointer to number one plug and the engine ready to fire on # 1 cylinder. The rest will follow..

Sorry Ben, your cog for the timing is 360 degrees out of phase. Turn it around once more time and line up the dot and that will put your rotor to # 1 plug.

By disagreeing with others on the forum makes it more exciting because we all have different experiences. This is what the forum is all about and we all learn from each other's experiences. DO NOT FEEL BAD.

try moving the middle one a 180 degrees. That might be the one operating the cam.

Read the language carefully, Poor gramer and badly constructed sentences. It is a Nigerian scam. Ask for cash or a US postal order and do not release goods until you are satisfied the money is in your pocket .

It looks like one of the timing marks out of timing. Double check.

Have any one did a research on the different brands of anti freeze ? The chemical composition ? How effective They are ? The negative/positive effect they have on radiator tubes, the entire system ? There are many brands out and it would be nice if some one could get the manufacturers to divulge their formula. It is the consumer right to know, especially with the modern engines nowadays.

Pure water has been used for a long time in none pressurise system. It has caused a lot of damaged inside where we cannot see them. When the pressurise system was introduced, I think, the boiling point was increased. According to the thermostat used. 160 , 180 heat ranges for different H P engines . The rad factory caps had markings from 10 lbs , 13 lbs and 14 lbs to increase the boiling point. The antifreeze was introduced , ostensibly. to handle heat and LUBRICATING the inside the block , head and radiator. It is recommended to change the antifreeze every 3 years So VIV W, my friend your motor is from a different era. Use antifreeze now so that you may get a few more miles. I would braze that hole. I have seen brazen manifold. To answer your question I do not think there is much you can do except take a shot in the dark.

Happiness is a state of the mind. So if you are happy seeing your toy, that is being happy. When I look at my 28 DB Senior project I feel happy like pig in mud.

I know people who used radiator LEEK. If it can stop holes it certainly can block tubes and impede water flow. Fix your radiator properly. Stop Leek is only good if you are in a jam and out far from home.

The audience is equally great .

Will your proposed ride meets the pollution standard requirement needed Cal. ?

As a precaution when connecting the battery terminal look for sparking . If sparking is present then it is an indication of some instrument is on. A big spark might be the cut out switch is stuck closed. Safe way to protect the generator is to use a diode inline.

When it comes to brakes do not fool around. You are playing Russian Roulette. You are taking chances with life and limb. Not only yours but other commuters. Sleeveing cylinders are relative inexpensive. It comes with all the rubbers. Oily lining are dangerous. If the shoes are made of steel the linings can be bonded. If it is aluminium you have to rivet them . Your local mechanic shop will be able to send It out and have it bonded.

If for example you have a bumper with some rust you would like to remove, just hang it , put a wide receptacle under and fill with evaporust use a paint brush and constantly brush with the liquid until clean . Do not let dry in between. Better than blasting. Are you interested in reusing original fasteners ? Put them in a cup and fill with evaporust. You will be surprised. Like almost brand new again.

I do not think there was any particular Motor Meter for trucks . The smaller ones for smaller cars and larger ones for trucks and large cars. The Rad caps size dictated which Motor meter is appropriate. Check with Cindy Myers for sizes. Most radiators were about the same size for small trucks and larger size cars. BE CAREFUL. THERE ARE VENDORS WHO ARE SELLING OEM STUFF THAT DO NOT WORKF FOR EXHORBITANT PRICES. For 5 or 10 dollars more you can buy a reproduction with any type of Logo that will work and no body will know the difference.