trini

Nooo, the truck was in the wrong place.

Check with Cindy Meyers. Her people in Australia will duplicate almost anything . Just give her the sample.. You need the face only, Right ? I am just replacing the face of my 28 D B fuel sender supplied by Cindy.

I am looking for a schematic for a Buick 12 volt system. The Radio was made by Delco in the US. The first 4 digits are 9813 but the other 2 digits are partly missing, They look like either 22 or 33. The valves are 12BA6 (2) 12BE6 (2) 12V6 (2) 12AU7 . The metal tube is unreadable because of rust. A total 8 tubes. Please PM me.

First I would check the distributor shaft is turning.

You can also check the ignition coil attached to the car. Remove the "IN" wire and use a jumper directly from the battery. Remove the "out" from the coil and hook up a jumper wire. Remove the coil high voltage wire from the cap and keep the tip about 1/8 to a 1/4 inch from the block and momentarily touch coil secondary wire to the battery ON and Off. That way you are mimicking the contact points . If the capacitor is a dud the ignition points will be discoloured with heat marks. I know this happened to me The fine braided wire from outside the distributor insulated terminal connected to the points was broken inside the cap, still inside the tiny silk insulator. Tug at it. Ignition coils can get hot too and inoperable. Keep you contacts open by installing a piece of paper between them and use the good old test light to check for grounds or continuity. Good luck.

Also try broadstreetltd@nsn.com, He has lots of gauges and carburetors. If you get something close you may be able to switch parts .

Neachoclatetown, thank you. The body of my 28 D B. is more steel than wood. I like it for that reason also. Every thing so simple to repair.

To test your condenser remove from the distributor . Use a jumper wire and ground the end to the ground battery post. Then scratch the other end of the condenser to the other battery post a few times. That will charge the condenser . Then try to discharge the condenser by touching the "the other end" to the positive post . There should be a fairly large spark if the condenser is good. If spark is feeble, discard. Use any condenser from a 12 volt system, it will work. If the condenser is defective the ignition points will quickly burn out. You may mount the condenser any where on the car it makes no difference in operation. There are lots of condensers mounted outside the distributor cap . Checks for wires inside the distributor plate for proper grounding. Yes, the plate must be grounded to the distributor body . To test the coil remove from car. hook up a wire from battery post side of the coil to the battery , plug a high tension wire in the tower. attach a wire at the other terminal of the coil and quickly spark the other battery terminal . If the coil is good the spark at the end of the high tension will be hot and blue, with a loud click. You will need a third hand.

Yes I have seen those composite things on some springs before . Does it accomplish anything ? I do not know because I have seen them well worn out and broken too.

chisteck, you are on the ball. Cheers.

According to my Operation manual there is mention of 4 Cylinder 1928 D B the compression is stated as 75 lbs. I also read an article in the AACA antique magazine , I think by Pat Forster, not quite sure, that all the pistons came in a bin for a particular model engine and the pistons were of different sizes by a few thou. The assemblers did not care because the assembly line had to keep moving. The compression from the factory most likely varied from cylinder to cylinder

Some Rolls Royce springs are covered with an oil soaked leather sewn around the springs. Makes it look good and classy too.

There is mention of 10 wooden spokes but my 28 DB Senior has 12 wood spokes to a wheel. On disc wheels the hub studs are threaded right hand on the right side marked R and the left side caps are marked L . I like the 28 DB because it has Hydraulic brakes. Used parts are difficult to find.

According to the owners manual of my 28 DB Senior there is a picture of the crank shaft stating the crank is devoid of balancing thing and is super balanced with hardly any vibration. It looks as a Continental but the article is written in such a way as to make one believe it was made by dodge brothers. And I believed it until now. There is no mention of compression. The 4 cylinder is mentioned as 75 psi. The crank shaft runs on 7 mains.

I am sorry to hear that. You can briefly wash the face with vaporust and flush with water. But never soak. If , after you have it apart, try Cindy Meyers to see if she can provide a replacement face. She sold me a repro face for my tank gauge.

Can you give us a shot of the reverse please ? Cheers.

Another way to do it is use vapor rust. Use a small brush and keep brushing it around with the liquid. may be for almost 1/2 an hour until the rust is gone. Use a fine swede brush to help brush away the rust and you will have a better view how it is put together. Most of the gauges were made by the same company. Some times the cover section is just tight pressed on the body. Under no circumstance soak the face in Vapor rust as it will peel all the paint on the face. If the face is loosened as DB26 said you may be able to hold the face with one had and the lower half with the other hand and twist them open. Keep trying.

Look at the back and you will see the face(ring) bent over to keep the glass assembly together. You actually have to open it like an oyster. What is wrong with it ? Does not work ? if you want to restore it the best thing to do is to send it to Bobs Speedo metor. He advertises in the Hemmings monthly magazine.

It would be nice to let us know what is the fix on this forum so that others might learn.

There is one advertised in the Hemmings classic magazine , somewhere in the North East U.S.

If on cleaning up you find that you need to replace any then replace with hardened seats. Otherwise leave them alone. Check the valve springs and valve guide

Thank you Jon, for that reason I installed a shutoff cock just below the vacuum tank. I turn it off every time I turn the engine off. I am beginning to think I do not yet know how to use the choke cable properly. The reason for flooding and the puddle. I enjoy reading your threads. Cheers Harry

The hot galvanize guys acid dipped the subject , removing all foreign matter otherwise the galvanize coating will not adhere.

Thank you Tom. Have a nice day, mate.

This question is for my idol Jon The Carb King. I have a Dodge Brothers Senior 6 and I am using a Carter B B 1, which I was told came off a 32 Chevrolet truck. The vacuum tank is mounted at least 16 inches above the carburetor. Every time I start the engine after sitting for a few days there is a puddle of gas on the floor. I am using the new type of needle assembly, that stubby type. THE BIG QUESTION IS THE GRAVITY FLOW STRONG ENOUGH TO COMPLETELY SHUT OFF THE GAS AT THE NEEDLE VALVE ? The air idle screw has no effect and I have to idle the engine using the adjuster at the bowl.