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Dlynskey, you are right . Some parts were inter changeable there was no valve cover on the 27 engine I had . Just a wad of oil soaked felt. I recognise the adjuster on the ignition coil in you picture. Wooden steering wheel with steering lock.

The frame is good for making go carts. Forget about hot rods, It is not nice to say this but some people think because the object is old it is worth plenty. Before you decide to buy come to this forum and ask questions. There is no such a thing as a stupid question.

There are quite a few running around,

If I remember the Chevrolet was developed by Luis Chevrolet who was a race car driver developed overhead engine around 19 13. The underside of the head on the 1928 is totally flat except for the valves which sits over the pistons The pistons come up about an inch below the head. That is the combustion chamber. The 27 has no tappet cover. The 28 has a half baked sort of cover and leaks oil all over. These engines were called "stove bolts" because the oil pan screws were rounded slot head . The 29 was a little better because the stove bolt 6 was introduced. Rod brakes. The crank shaft on the 4 cylinder weighed about 15 pounds. Pathetic looking thing.

I have 4 D B grease caps, 2 and a quarter ins inside diameter in nice condition and an ignition key assembly complete with tumbler and 3 keys # 904 WBH brand new, never used, for sale I am asking 50 dollars for grease caps plus shipping and 100 dollars for the 1962 Land rover ignition assembly. PM or email hsahu8034@gmail.com

Definitely hybrid.

In 1978 I bought a 1928 Chevrolet Tudor 2 door thing and tried to restore it. It had a honey comb rad. The engine was badly designed, combustion chamber in the block. Parts for the engine are difficult to find. Too much wood in construction of body. (Fisher) The truck is not much better. I would not want one for free.

How many on this forum owns a 1928 Dodge Brothers Senior ? Any possibility of compiling a list ? Although it is better to air questions on the forum some times it is faster to deal with members individually for different reason. The "envelope" and the "Bell" is great but sometimes I do not go to them for many days . You do not want to ? No problem. Cheers

Radio components loses their value as they age and is best to replace them. The caps are usually covered with wax. It is one way to recognise they are old. Never use "new old stock" This might need a professional. I would like to know you make out.

Good going, mate.

Some ideas in general , clean the crud off by blowing the inside, Check the tubes are in the correct sockets. To know that some radios have a label diagram showing where the tubes go, If the radio has been sitting for a long time the tube pins in the sockets may need rebooting. A battery radio should have 2 terminals, sometimes with an inline fuse. Use a metal coat hanger as an antenna. If, while powered and still does not talk back to you try wiggling the tubes and some of the components. Wait for the tubes to light up. Some public libraries do carry radio schematics or try Google. "Tube and More" in the US is a source of components.

Thank you Padgett, This thing looks like a cross between a Morgan and 47 M G . It has a 6 cylinder air cooled engine I have pictures in email. I have to learn how to lift and email pictures on this forum

I saw a car last week in a Caribbean island. It was used by the Dutch ambassador. The tag says Ruska Regina. Has anyone has information who made this car and where? I had a peek at the engine. It looks like an air cooled VW .

Have anyone any information on a car called "Ruska Regina" ? It is definitely European. Cheers.

I once belonged to a antique radio club. Blogs are similar to Dodge Brothers Club. It is free. They will provide you with a schematic and will walk you through step by step what to do. replacing capacitors and vibrators and resisters. If you have the basic concept of how a radio works it makes life easier. I once replaced all the capacitors, resistors and vibrator, mechanical to electronic , on a 1941 Buick Sonomatic and got it working.

Nice looking car.

The easy way to do a good job on the tail light assembly is to dunk it in Vapor rust overnight or longer depends on the amount of rust. The seemingly rusted springs are cleaned out without damage. Rinse and blow dry to prevent flash rust. The terminals of the wires are a lump of solder that wears out. Use a solder gun and heat the terminal, remove the solder. You will be surprised what is there. A shoe tack nail pushed into the cable. You will have to put a blob of solder on the head of the Tack. It makes a perfect terminal. If you cannot find Vapor rust try lemon vinegar or juice.

I have been looking through this thread and I have not seen a 1928 Senior 6. sedan. May be I should renew my glasses. Is the senior 6 a rare breed ? Mr. Myers told me parts for them are very hard to come by. I will try to post some of the unique components .

No matter what method you try it is going to a pain in the but . Some thing like a brake cylinder hone with a long flex and hone it out. Is it possible to remove a few frost plugs and direct a torch flame inside ? I do not know. May be, just maybe. An alternative is to acid dip the whole block. Will clean the inside of the channels too. The stuck tube will may get loose. .

Sorry for asking, mate.

OK Jack M, where are the original rims ?. I can use a 19 inch wood wheel rim. The tyre size 600/650 19. It is between 4 1/4 and 4 1/2 inch wide on the outside, lip to lip.

Watson has 2 sizes of dampers . I think one use 1 and half inch and the other use 1 and 3/4 wide belts I am not quite sure now.

If the tyres are 600 /650 x 19 I would like to buy a wheel. Should have 6 lugs (bolts for tightening the tyres) PM a message or by email at hsahu8034@gmail.com or 905 889 0621. Thank you. Harry.

Spinneyhill, you make my day. The picture you published is the exact style in my DB. The lever # 4 in the illustration is where to adjust. That means I will have to remove and disassemble. Adjust on the bench. I do not mind. I can also lower the pedal height.Tell The Missus to give you a big kiss for me. Cheers mate.

I am in Toronto Canada.. If you can get someone going to Hershey to look for them there . There is always the chance of getting them there . Mine are complete. May be the Exotic guys will be able to replace the springs or make new ones. If I understand correctly clock makers and old Phonograph restorers buy springs from somewhere. The springs come in flat pieces and rolled to size and shape as needed. Ask a custom clock maker, those who make those large clocks you see on municipal buildings and maybe grand father clocks repairers. They buy springs from some where. The springs are interchangeable but not the frame. They are definitely R and L Whenever you are ready PM me and I can post some pictures and tell you how to take apart without damage. No , I will not be at Fallbrook. By the how about Google clock spring makers ? Good luck, mate.