trini

These Delco alternators are fairly inexpensive and widely available. Most alternator rebuilders are actually throwing them out in the garbage. It is the most reliable alternator ever built except Leece Neville. I rebuilt dozens for transport tractors.

Matt, you hit the nail straight on the head.

Buy American to save jobs ? What is made in America these days ? We might as well buy Japanese. Quite a few plants in Canada.

I am looking for a truck manual for a 1927 , or 1928 or 1929 Dodge brothers . Any luck ? PM me please. Thank you.

There is a trick to the trade. The auctioneer has assistants in the "crowd" to ghost bid to raise the price. Especially the small time guys. Online bidding is no different. Bidding in a crowd is worse where some bidders want to show off " I have more money than you" especially if his girlfriend is around . It is a psychological game to some extent. Auctioneers have sleepers in the crowd to do that. Experience buyers will only pay what he think it is worth or just walk away.

Real steel is on the ball. Why not just replace the alternator with a Delco 15 S1 65 amp or 90 amp alternator with the integral regulator ? Leave the old mechanical regulator in place . You will be able to use the same wires from the block and wire the new alternator and keep the old antique look. Playing around with the old mechanical regulator is trouble. The electronic one cannot be repaired and must be replaced.

What is good for General Bull Moose is good for everybody. by Lil Abner. The Saddie Hawkins day race is coming up on November 17 and we have been given the mighty "Good night Irene punch"

Great car , It is my favorite GM product

Where the valve stem stops no body knows. The tracking of rear and front tyres , rear tyres following at a smaller circle is known as Murphy's Law.

Hi tinindian, Thank you very much. Have a nice day.

What are the differences of rims "locking rims, Split rims and clincher rims.

Mine is original. There might be a ball some where but I do not know. It works fine.

The choke cable on my 28 DB is self sustaining at any point you want to keep it and yours might be the same. It is a heavy single wire so that it will not kink when pushing back . If you are looking to modify, one can be obtained from Moss motors. You will have to install a heavy retracting spring on the butter fly shaft .

Does that tank a vacuum pump ? May be the fitting for the inlet and the vacuum line is missing.

About a year ago my friend had a piston from a 1918 McLauchin Buick reproduced by Egge Machine but it was not cheap .

So when a non pressure rad overflows, into an over flow tank if( you install one ) it will definitely not suck back the liquid) Because the cap is not designed for that. Most likely the over flow tube is inside the top tank of the rad.. You will have to drill a hole in the neck of the filler and solder an overflow pipe.in order to direct the water outside. Then you might want to find a pressure cap to fit the rad.

Radiator spilling can be caused by using the incorrect cap. Was pressure cap used in the early thirties ? There is a thread here how to clean your engine and rad at the same time using vaporust.

Why do some people think because it is an old something it is worth a million dollars. This truck will consume at least 15 k to make it half decent The engine alone will cost concretively 4 grand.

The big question is Why do you need one if the manufacturer thought and designed it that way? Most of these old geezers have an internal overflow tank. Fill the rad and run the engine hot and the rad will overflow and level itself. If you have an overheating problem you need to take cake of that by using different methods to clean the rust throughout the system.

I do not buy on Ebay period unless it is the last one available in the world. I buy on Amazon prime for almost everything none antique car related.

I tried registering on WPCC . After filling the required fields it went to another page for payment. Well, correct me if I am wrong. It said payment must be made by Run Pal. I stay away from Buble Bay and its affiliates. I dislike them with a passion. I would still like to register but with my Visa. No third party. (Chrysler Club)

Can you post some pictures of the engine here , please ? I saw some pictures of some engines where the distributors are at the end of generators and in some unusual places. More information is needed. Is the engine apart and is now being put back together ? If it is anything like my Senior 6, I know how to time that. There is a metal cover behind at the bell housing. Remove that and look carefully. Pinch the flywheel slowly , rotation of the engine, and look for the timing mark stamped. While turning look at the distributer rotor at the same time. Remove the #1 plug and put a straw in the hole. The straw will be pushed up or down by the piston. Remove the valve cover from near the # cylinder and have an assistant look to see when the intake and exhaust valves begin to overlap and point the rotor to the # 1 position on the cap for the # plug wire. REMEMBER, IT TAKES 2 ROTATION of the flywheel FOR ANY PISTON TO REACH COMPRESSION AT TDC. At one mark the piston will be at the bottom and the next round the piston will be at TDC. But concentrate on #1 and the rest will follow. Valve timing is done with the timing cover off. Ignition timing is putting the distributor shaft in the correct position in relation to the firing piston in a particular order.

Nice going. What is it ?

I think I will make a casting with plaster of paris and put the layers one by one with glue.

Thank you guys for the update .