Dashmaster

My drivers seat split at the seams on the upper part by the shoulder area, A support wire is broken in the area. Purchased the New Old seats from Eastcoast Reatta Parts. They were out of a 42K mile convertible. I think one of two the white blue cars that was switched to white seats. Here are pictures of the old and new side by side before installing them. Old seats on the left, new on the right. First Image is the Drivers. In the car the drivers seat and seats did not look bad color wise or out of shape. But look at the differences. These new old seats are so much more soft and comfortable. last picture is the separated part of the old drivers seat.

My story starts in 2004 when we were looking for cars for my Daughter. Our insurance agent and a friend of theirs contacted us about a 1992 Saturn sedan that their mother had. We went to look at it and when there I had a conversation with the owners and told them I worked on my own cars and such. We bought the Saturn. The 1988 Reatta was in the garage. She said it was her Baby, She bought it new. Got a call in 2010 from the owner and asked if I would be interested in the Reatta, I said I will come and look at it but said I was not sure if I had the money to purchase it since there were lots of other things going on. I had never seen a Reatta up close and knew nothing about the cars. I did see this Forum had lots of information on it. Went to see it. The Reatta was no longer a Garage Queen, been sitting in the driveway for some time. Battery was dead, so I could not check anything out. She said I will give you the car if you promise not to junk it and part it out. ( She was a forum user and a DIV member). I said OK I would take it. Arrived next week with tow dolly and battery. Installed battery, started right up and CRT was working. Loaded it up and took to my father’s house to store it until I could work on it. While unloading off the dolly, a rusty brake line burst and the Teves system pumped out all the brake fluid on my dad’s asphalt driveway. Car sat there for about 2 years in this state. 2011 Loaded the car onto a dolly and transported it home. Before staring to work on it I would start it from time to time, knowing it was low on gas I added some from gas can. Did not think that it might have had pre-ethanol gas in it. Ran for awhile then stopped. Cranked no start. Now I had a car with no brakes and would not run. I figured I would start on the rusty brake lines. Broken brake line was at the rear regulator and hard to access. I figured it was easier to remove the whole rear suspension. Since there was lots of surface rust on most everything back there I could clean everything up, Drop Gas Tank and service the fuel pump and tank. Once it was out I found the rear shocks were shot. task was now to replace anything bad, sand paint with POR15 and re-assemble. New shocks, bushings, new brake lines including flex lines. Repaired rusty gas line. Cleaned and repainted the rusty heat shields. Work Stopped here until 2012. Many Life Changes during this time period. Car was reassembled and moved to my current home in 2014. Now in a Garage, work continued rear to front. I have worked on just about everything on the car. Too many things to list. My 88 Reatta returned to the Road in fall of 2014, once on the road it presented more things to repair. 2015, Continue to fix or replace anything bad, got it running good. Then had some issues, a random misfire sidelined it for a couple months. I almost sold it, I was very frustrated after all the work I had in it and going over this problem 3 or 4 times to fix it. Finally did and it has been Reliable since. Attended several shows at the end of the year. 2016 Running good, Reliable and Great Driver. Attended many shows and events, I had a great time meeting people and talking about the Reatta. Notified the Original owner that I would have the car at the Rockville Car show, so she could see it again. Her family came out and She was in tears seeing it again after all these years. 2017 Nothing much was needed, drove car to Shows and events, it was my backup when my truck had issues. Very Reliable all year, Had to take it out in snow once and one of the coldest days when my truck was out of service. Drivers seat upper side split open at the seams, There is a broken wire in there. 2018 Started another year of Just enjoying the car. Car is no longer my backup for my work commute. Attended the Spring Auto Fair Reatta Rally my 3rd year, Planed other events. It was way to hot for one then the rain moved in. Have only had one good dry day in 12 weeks or so and took it to a Cars and Coffee. I now have more money in the car than it is worth, all of it was to make the car reliable, and safe. No money has been needed for the car since fall of 2015. I now have a Reliable, Unique, Fun Car to drive, take to shows and events, Cars and Coffee. I still need to fix the paint, and re-dye the carpet in the rear area. And the car will be about perfect. I have kept a line item budget on the car so I know exactly what I have in it and what has been replaced or worked on and when. The enjoyment the car brings, offsets the costs incurred making it road worthy, but this is for each person to decide if you are thinking of restoring one. Costs add up quick specially if the car needs paint. This car would be in s scrap yard if not for this the Forum full of knowledgeable helpful members and users, ROJ, The Reatta Store, Parts Vendors, and my Car background in Car repair and 12 electrical. I would guess the Original owners picked the right person to get the car. I have a 1 in 46 car. White Blue with Standard seats. Not many people can say that. This is my Reatta Story, How about posting yours!

Ronnie, I think this may be a bad light sensor in the dash. I had to do mine several years ago for the same reason. Dimmer worked for Dash and CRT but nothing else was lit. I forgot what this part is called.

Rockville MD Car Show October 20th 2018 http://www.rockvillemd.gov/667/Antique-Classic-Car-Show This is a Very Nice show with lots of History. I have been the only Reatta there for the last couple of years, Would be great to have more. I know there are Reatta owners in the MD, VA area that would not be far from the show. I will be there hope to see you to.

Dave, When my ECM failed it would not fire all the injectors. I picked up a Noid Test Kit to confirm ECM was bad. I could spray in starting fluid and car would run. Later on I found badly clogged injectors that I am sure did not help the ECM. All were in electrical specifications but some hardy flowed. Cleaned them and worked good. Replaced them later with Bosch III injectors. If you want to borrow my Noid Kit I can mail it to you.

I have been running a A1 Cardone for the last 3 years from Rock Auto with no issues. Prices for 89 ECM Rock Auto, A1 Cardone and AC Delco are about the same $81.79 Cardone and $93.79 delco. The Core charges are $9 cardone, $90 for delco. When I got mine 3 years ago there were no core charges, Wonder if the supply is getting low so now they want the old one back Looked up the 88, no core charges on most of them. Rock Auto shows the part numbers for the years maybe this will help.

From the Reatta Colors book. Bright Red with Slate interior numbers. Black top 16, White Top 8, Saddle Top 1. This car is at least a 1 in 16 or lower depending on the Top Color. Looks to be a Nice car.

The brush on Varnish self levels and smooths out. Spray on may leave a textured finish depending on how fast it drys. Let us know how it works if you try it. Also make sure you can remove it if needed without harming the tail light. Mineral Spirits will remove the Spar Varnish and not harm the tail light.

The TPS is easy to check using an ohm meter. I think the procedure is on the ROJ.

High Idle that won't change like you described might be Throttle Position Sensor. when they go bad that will do this. Both of these can be checked via the CRT but since you have a 1990 you may see if any codes are present. Bad or sticky IAC usually will usually only come in to play when warmed up and in gear like sitting at a red light or stall. Bad TPS will always give you high reading all the time, warmed up or not.

Yes Thank You Barney. Wow 142 in Maryland. I have only ever seen 2 others. One at the Rockville fall car show several years ago and one near where I live. Passed it on a Sunday. I think it was driftwood convertible.

In my opinion Paint Condition is you biggest concern. Car needed a re-paint will easily exceed it value by a large amount unless you can paint it yourself.

I agree with Padgett. My car also set for a long time before I was able to really work on it. When I got mine it had the old fuel pre-ethanol. I would start the car every so often, Knowing it was low on fuel I added some one day while I was mowing. It was ethanol fuel. Car stopped running after a little awhile and could not get it to start again. When I started working to make it road ready again. That fuel mix gummed up the fuel pump and killed it. After getting new pump in Tank Clean , lines clean, new fuel filter. Still would not start, Would start with starting fluid, Fuel pressure was good. Pulled the injectors and all were clogged. You need to do a detailed complete inspection under the car. Engine Cradle Mounts, Fuel Lines, Drop Tank. If rusty inside replace it.

I Bought shims from Rock Auto 2 years ago after getting the car aligned. Shop gave me the values needed for the rear and they said none of their sources had the rear shims available. I also got the Camber Bolt Kit for the front but have not needed it. The rear shims install between the rear hub and knuckle.

Here are some more Pictures, I think Marck's are at better angles than mine. I did not see Jim or Ed on Saturday. Handmedownreatta was there on Friday for the show. There are some pictures on the Show Link. We had a Great Time, Great People can't wait for next year. Jim & Nicks BBQ was wonderful.

Also If you have a long enough socket extension you could try a breaker bar on it. If none of the above helps try a freeze spray or you could soak it with PB blaster, let it soak good and try it again.

Mine is pretty accurate. My main commuting drive is mix Highway with 2 mountains, and some stop and go with a little in town driving. My display reads 24 mpg and hand calculated is a bit higher. If you are getting 16 mpg and not a lot of stop or short trips you car many need a tune up. Bad Oxygen sensor will cause bad MPG along with other issues. On my road trips I have seen 30 mpg on the display and had calculated again was slightly higher.

I usually show my car 3 to 4 times a year. Its about supporting the Local Buick Clubs Shows, Or the get together at the Spring Charlotte Auto Fair Reatta gathering. My Car needs paint and other small things. I go to meet people, answer Reatta Questions, I have a book that shows all the work I have done. I do not care about awards. The Buick Shows I have been to usually have People Choice awards based on classes. I won one last year because I had the only car present in the Class. The Fall Rockville MD show I go to is full of high end cars, No modified cars allowed and I get lots on questions and positive comments about the Reatta every year I go. Just out to have some fun.

Here are picture of the Child restraint parts one not shown that mounted with the side floor seat belt bold. Cassette Holder fits in the top of the console. The Fog light covers were in the car in the bag. GM # 18503633. I am not sure if the Dealer supplied them or if they came with the car. I do not have the Window sicker for the car. I also have a Keyless Entry system installed by the dealer. Here is a picture of the the remote. I also have the Factory Cargo Strap.

Ronnie, I will take a picture and post it. They are still in the original bag I think with part number. I display them with the car when I take it to shows.

I have the child seat hookup parts for the front passenger seat. The Original owners had small child when she bought the car. I also have the cassette organizer for the console no one ever mentions and the Fog Light Covers that came with the car, they have the Buick emblem on them.

Ronnie I used the Wire Kit and Relays, but I mounted the relays on the drivers side underhood Fusebox cover. Was thinking someday of placing them under the cover. I did not want them on the strut tower, that side is crowded already. All I had to extend. was the battery wire.

Bob, Do the relay harness upgrade before trying the LED lights. The relay will take the load off the headlight switch and provide full battery power to the headlights. The new wiring helps also since the headlight plugs are usually weak and corroded. I made this change on my 88 to take the load off the switch. But the silver stars are so much brighter now I see no reason to get LED's. The lights are brighter than the lights in my 97 truck . Bright and Clear.

Mecum selling prices. The 60K mile Coupe $ 2,750. The 1990 240 mile Select 60 $25,850. A new High and a new low for what looked like a nice 89 Coupe.

Change the OX sensor. Bad one will cause stalling when computer the goes into closed loop at warmup. You can unplug it to test. If car stays running the the OX sensor is bad.