Dashmaster

Beautiful Car and great weather!! Wish we had that. I take my car to a semi local Car and Coffee and always get lots of questions especially on the Touch Screen and features. My Car need paint but you can't tell from most pictures. I also get good comments at other shows I take it to. Cars and Coffee ( Leesburg VA, Check out their FB page, This a great group its all about the cars and trucks no mater what you drive)

I was not sure until I looked last Night. Is this the Bright Blue car in PA that has been posted on FB for a long time? The one I am referring to is a 91 with 112K miles on it. It states it was originally a maroon color. I have seen the price drop over time on this from $5500 to as low as $4800. Some of the things you say about this cars suspension noise and brake lines being replaced do not sound like a rust free car. The paint Job looks good but I wonder why someone would re-paint a car in a non original color if they had no plans to keep it for awhile. I think the cost of the re-paint is why this car is priced so high. As of last night this car was listed with $4900 price. If the 88 is $2500 more. I will assume the price on the 88 is $7400. Both of these car are way over priced. I know of a nice 90 Convertible I could pickup at $4900. I think you should do some more shopping around.

Before I changed my cell from Flip Phone to Smart Phone, I used a thin CD case opened and slipped the bottom part between the upper dash and console, let the top hang down, GPS suction attached to this very well. Except for the phone cost I am now paying less for my smart phone plan then my flip phone. PM me if you want to know what cell service I use.

Here is picture that show the dash, It not an up close one. I will have to take one. This is from a picture taken at the Lessburg VA Cars aand Coffee I go to about once a month.

I will have to see if I have pictures. To move the cassette deck back enough for the abs I had to take the front face off the cassette deck. Mine did not work and have no plans to fix it. I then shifted the mounting brackets to shift the deck back a little. The cassette is still in place and is still wired . Mount I used is this one. I screwed it into the abs panel near the top right side. Been working wonderfully the last 2 years. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR4AO9D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nic, Not sure what year car you have. On my 88 moved the cassette deck backwards and installed an abs blank plate in front of it and mounted a magnet mount cell phone mount. Works good with my Nexus 6p. The top of my phone when mounted comes up the lower corner of the touch screen on the right side. Mounting it this way left no holes in the interior. I can see maps clearly and with Bluetooth hear directions thru the radio. This is the only way I could come up with for my 88.

This is the one I used, MagnaFlow 23422 Direct Fit Catalytic Converter Amazon shows 1 left at $91.00 dollars, I purchased mine from the Reatta Store 2 years ago.

88-94 Chevy and GMC Trucks. Located above the gas pedal on bracket. 10 mm bolts hold it in place. You can get to it from under the dash. There is a tread about modifying your old unit to use aftermarket amp. So if the sound is noisy but radio holding stations you may be able to to the mod and add an amp. I will try and find the thread, I think it was called the ultimate radio mod.

Walt I agree. If you have been getting heavy white smoke out of the exhaust that is usually coolant leak into the cylinder. Usually the white smoke or steam will be heaviest when accelerating. If you have the coolant in the oil and its white milky colored you may have have damaged all the crank bearings. You can use motor flush and oil change after the repair to see how it works out. It really depends how long the bearings have been subject to the coolant.

WHT89. You said hydro locked. Do you have coolant in the oil? This is the only way the engine can hydo lock if the crank case and cylinders are full of fluid. Intake gasket change it not hard. Use felpro caskets and sealant were it says to.

Jake, When this was on FB I did ask to see if it was a rusted engine cradle. The response I got said no not the engine cradle, it was the Body Side Mount or mounts that are rusted out. This would be a hard thing to replace unless you can fabricate and weld in new mounts. I would have someone near inspect the body side of the engine cradle mounts before moving on it. If you have the tools, time, space to repair such damage then it might be good fit for you. I know I considered it because it was an 88 with blue interior, but after finding that it was not the cradle its beyond my ability to repair it.

The DNR will actually reduce the sound quality. It limited frequency response to reduce amp distortion at higher volume levels, The DNR is build into the output stage that you will be removing for the Mod. DNR did not improve sound. My Radio actually sounds good depending on the station signal, but give it a clear signal via Bluetooth or with MP3 player\ipod thru the input it will sound as good as anything else out there.

I thought I got the instructions for the Radio Mod from the ROJ. But I just looked and do not see it. I think I may still have the instructions. You will need a good soldering iron, solder sucker or solder wick to remove the components and solder in the RCA jacks. This also eliminated the Dynamic Noise reduction. You are taping into the pre-amp outputs. You can ship this if you want and wire in your amp using the speaker level inputs. The problem with using speaker inputs when the radio output distorts its passed into the amp and it will amplify the distortion. Distortion kills speakers.

That will give you a input but not pre-outputs for amp. I use Bluetooth FM transmitter to play sound from my Phone. Very Clear and works well. My car is stock in appearance except I put a black plate in front of the cassette to mount a phone mount.

You can get Radio Modules from 89 thru 93 Chevy and GMC Trucks. It located under the dash just above the gas pedal. When my original got noisy I got one out of a 92 Chevy I used while I modified the original. I used the Instructions on the ROJ for this. I replaced all my speakers with Sound Ordnance Separates from CrutchField. I did not use the SO Tweeters I used the OEM Tweeters with SO crossovers. Running older Sony 4 channel amp wired in stereo in 2 channel and Mono to 8 inch JL sub. I found the Fade Ft to back was not needed.

Another Thought. When I was tracing wires for E041 code awhile back I discovered factory wire splices that connected power and grounds for the Crank, Ignition Module and Cam Sensors. I found them under the car in loom. They are just like the splices done under the seats. I was tracing back from the Ignition module and found them. This is when I was showing E041 when the car was not having any running issues.

Just another thought. Does the car try to start at all misfire or seem like it wants to start? I had an oxygen sensor that would stall the car when it went into closed loop. I do not remember if it would re-start or not. But this would be an easy test. Just unplug OX sensor and see if it stays running. It will use computer defaults to run.

If the seat is in lowest position the bolts may not release because they will hit the lower track. These are fine threaded bolts and lots of turning to get them out. Hope you can get the seat out easily. Lots of good suggestions here.

If the seat is in the raised position you might be able to get to the seat bolts but the plastic trim need to be removed. The seat bolts are long and there in not much swing room for ratchets or wrenches. Since I just did a seat swap. The first one I did not raise the seat much before removing from the car. It was a pain and took awhile to get them out, had to use ratchet wrench on the bolt near the top of the motor. The second seat I did I raise before removal, This was much easier. The plastic trim still needed to be removed. I think this would be very hard to do in the car. if you can turn the motor cable adjusters by hand to move the seat might be the best way if you have no power.

I installed the Magnaflow that is listed above on my Car. I had no issues installing it from under the car on jackstands. Good soaking of the flange bolts with PB Blaster and a long 3/8ths extension was needed.

Welcome to the Forum. After looking at the pictures especially the passenger side that show the flow thru vent. There are lots of things that appear to have rust around them. I think this might be a flood car. Look at some of the door jam pictures and the way the carpet is stained. I think I would move on from this car.

This is listed on Facebook market Place. You will have to look it up on FB marketplace for Battle Creek MI. Pictures posted on this car show Very Good exterior and Interior. Rear Carpet is not faded. Says has rusted Frame rail but this is likely the Engine Cradle. This car is a 1 of 8 based on its feature and color combination. 88 for sale runs and drives but selling as a parts car outside is in great shape interior is beautiful, underside not so much, front passenger frame rail neeeeeeeds fixed(rusted through) everything works on this car even the stupid anti-theft. Not mine but I can answer most questions.2000.00 oboPm for more info/ No Trades

Welcome to the Forums, Congratulations on the new Reatta you purchased. The Search Function works for me. From the Reatta forum, Click on search, select this forum, type in you search word and hit enter. I am using the Firefox Browser. Not sure if it works the same in IE or Chrome.

I will have to take some pictures of these cords. They are still attached to the old seats. The new ones I think are out of a 90.

Dave. My plan is to keep them. Clean up the passenger seat good and disassemble the top of the drivers seat to see about the broken support wire. It was pushing up on the side in the shoulder area and I think this stress made the seats spit open sooner. I know the other material is work keeping for sure. Blue is not an easy color to get parts for. Also: The original seats had a black cord on the inside side riveted to the seats, this cord went around the inner seat belt and I think it was to move the seat belt buckle forward and back with the seat movement. The new seats showed no sign of this. I wonder is this is another 88 only item that was dropped for later cars.