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Dashmaster

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Everything posted by Dashmaster

  1. Nic, Not sure what year car you have. On my 88 moved the cassette deck backwards and installed an abs blank plate in front of it and mounted a magnet mount cell phone mount. Works good with my Nexus 6p. The top of my phone when mounted comes up the lower corner of the touch screen on the right side. Mounting it this way left no holes in the interior. I can see maps clearly and with Bluetooth hear directions thru the radio. This is the only way I could come up with for my 88.
  2. This is the one I used, MagnaFlow 23422 Direct Fit Catalytic Converter Amazon shows 1 left at $91.00 dollars, I purchased mine from the Reatta Store 2 years ago.
  3. 88-94 Chevy and GMC Trucks. Located above the gas pedal on bracket. 10 mm bolts hold it in place. You can get to it from under the dash. There is a tread about modifying your old unit to use aftermarket amp. So if the sound is noisy but radio holding stations you may be able to to the mod and add an amp. I will try and find the thread, I think it was called the ultimate radio mod.
  4. Walt I agree. If you have been getting heavy white smoke out of the exhaust that is usually coolant leak into the cylinder. Usually the white smoke or steam will be heaviest when accelerating. If you have the coolant in the oil and its white milky colored you may have have damaged all the crank bearings. You can use motor flush and oil change after the repair to see how it works out. It really depends how long the bearings have been subject to the coolant.
  5. WHT89. You said hydro locked. Do you have coolant in the oil? This is the only way the engine can hydo lock if the crank case and cylinders are full of fluid. Intake gasket change it not hard. Use felpro caskets and sealant were it says to.
  6. Jake, When this was on FB I did ask to see if it was a rusted engine cradle. The response I got said no not the engine cradle, it was the Body Side Mount or mounts that are rusted out. This would be a hard thing to replace unless you can fabricate and weld in new mounts. I would have someone near inspect the body side of the engine cradle mounts before moving on it. If you have the tools, time, space to repair such damage then it might be good fit for you. I know I considered it because it was an 88 with blue interior, but after finding that it was not the cradle its beyond my ability to repair it.
  7. The DNR will actually reduce the sound quality. It limited frequency response to reduce amp distortion at higher volume levels, The DNR is build into the output stage that you will be removing for the Mod. DNR did not improve sound. My Radio actually sounds good depending on the station signal, but give it a clear signal via Bluetooth or with MP3 player\ipod thru the input it will sound as good as anything else out there.
  8. I thought I got the instructions for the Radio Mod from the ROJ. But I just looked and do not see it. I think I may still have the instructions. You will need a good soldering iron, solder sucker or solder wick to remove the components and solder in the RCA jacks. This also eliminated the Dynamic Noise reduction. You are taping into the pre-amp outputs. You can ship this if you want and wire in your amp using the speaker level inputs. The problem with using speaker inputs when the radio output distorts its passed into the amp and it will amplify the distortion. Distortion kills speakers.
  9. That will give you a input but not pre-outputs for amp. I use Bluetooth FM transmitter to play sound from my Phone. Very Clear and works well. My car is stock in appearance except I put a black plate in front of the cassette to mount a phone mount.
  10. You can get Radio Modules from 89 thru 93 Chevy and GMC Trucks. It located under the dash just above the gas pedal. When my original got noisy I got one out of a 92 Chevy I used while I modified the original. I used the Instructions on the ROJ for this. I replaced all my speakers with Sound Ordnance Separates from CrutchField. I did not use the SO Tweeters I used the OEM Tweeters with SO crossovers. Running older Sony 4 channel amp wired in stereo in 2 channel and Mono to 8 inch JL sub. I found the Fade Ft to back was not needed.
  11. Another Thought. When I was tracing wires for E041 code awhile back I discovered factory wire splices that connected power and grounds for the Crank, Ignition Module and Cam Sensors. I found them under the car in loom. They are just like the splices done under the seats. I was tracing back from the Ignition module and found them. This is when I was showing E041 when the car was not having any running issues.
  12. Just another thought. Does the car try to start at all misfire or seem like it wants to start? I had an oxygen sensor that would stall the car when it went into closed loop. I do not remember if it would re-start or not. But this would be an easy test. Just unplug OX sensor and see if it stays running. It will use computer defaults to run.
  13. If the seat is in lowest position the bolts may not release because they will hit the lower track. These are fine threaded bolts and lots of turning to get them out. Hope you can get the seat out easily. Lots of good suggestions here.
  14. If the seat is in the raised position you might be able to get to the seat bolts but the plastic trim need to be removed. The seat bolts are long and there in not much swing room for ratchets or wrenches. Since I just did a seat swap. The first one I did not raise the seat much before removing from the car. It was a pain and took awhile to get them out, had to use ratchet wrench on the bolt near the top of the motor. The second seat I did I raise before removal, This was much easier. The plastic trim still needed to be removed. I think this would be very hard to do in the car. if you can turn the motor cable adjusters by hand to move the seat might be the best way if you have no power.
  15. I installed the Magnaflow that is listed above on my Car. I had no issues installing it from under the car on jackstands. Good soaking of the flange bolts with PB Blaster and a long 3/8ths extension was needed.
  16. Welcome to the Forum. After looking at the pictures especially the passenger side that show the flow thru vent. There are lots of things that appear to have rust around them. I think this might be a flood car. Look at some of the door jam pictures and the way the carpet is stained. I think I would move on from this car.
  17. This is listed on Facebook market Place. You will have to look it up on FB marketplace for Battle Creek MI. Pictures posted on this car show Very Good exterior and Interior. Rear Carpet is not faded. Says has rusted Frame rail but this is likely the Engine Cradle. This car is a 1 of 8 based on its feature and color combination. 88 for sale runs and drives but selling as a parts car outside is in great shape interior is beautiful, underside not so much, front passenger frame rail neeeeeeeds fixed(rusted through) everything works on this car even the stupid anti-theft. Not mine but I can answer most questions.2000.00 oboPm for more info/ No Trades
  18. Welcome to the Forums, Congratulations on the new Reatta you purchased. The Search Function works for me. From the Reatta forum, Click on search, select this forum, type in you search word and hit enter. I am using the Firefox Browser. Not sure if it works the same in IE or Chrome.
  19. I will have to take some pictures of these cords. They are still attached to the old seats. The new ones I think are out of a 90.
  20. Dave. My plan is to keep them. Clean up the passenger seat good and disassemble the top of the drivers seat to see about the broken support wire. It was pushing up on the side in the shoulder area and I think this stress made the seats spit open sooner. I know the other material is work keeping for sure. Blue is not an easy color to get parts for. Also: The original seats had a black cord on the inside side riveted to the seats, this cord went around the inner seat belt and I think it was to move the seat belt buckle forward and back with the seat movement. The new seats showed no sign of this. I wonder is this is another 88 only item that was dropped for later cars.
  21. My drivers seat split at the seams on the upper part by the shoulder area, A support wire is broken in the area. Purchased the New Old seats from Eastcoast Reatta Parts. They were out of a 42K mile convertible. I think one of two the white blue cars that was switched to white seats. Here are pictures of the old and new side by side before installing them. Old seats on the left, new on the right. First Image is the Drivers. In the car the drivers seat and seats did not look bad color wise or out of shape. But look at the differences. These new old seats are so much more soft and comfortable. last picture is the separated part of the old drivers seat.
  22. My story starts in 2004 when we were looking for cars for my Daughter. Our insurance agent and a friend of theirs contacted us about a 1992 Saturn sedan that their mother had. We went to look at it and when there I had a conversation with the owners and told them I worked on my own cars and such. We bought the Saturn. The 1988 Reatta was in the garage. She said it was her Baby, She bought it new. Got a call in 2010 from the owner and asked if I would be interested in the Reatta, I said I will come and look at it but said I was not sure if I had the money to purchase it since there were lots of other things going on. I had never seen a Reatta up close and knew nothing about the cars. I did see this Forum had lots of information on it. Went to see it. The Reatta was no longer a Garage Queen, been sitting in the driveway for some time. Battery was dead, so I could not check anything out. She said I will give you the car if you promise not to junk it and part it out. ( She was a forum user and a DIV member). I said OK I would take it. Arrived next week with tow dolly and battery. Installed battery, started right up and CRT was working. Loaded it up and took to my father’s house to store it until I could work on it. While unloading off the dolly, a rusty brake line burst and the Teves system pumped out all the brake fluid on my dad’s asphalt driveway. Car sat there for about 2 years in this state. 2011 Loaded the car onto a dolly and transported it home. Before staring to work on it I would start it from time to time, knowing it was low on gas I added some from gas can. Did not think that it might have had pre-ethanol gas in it. Ran for awhile then stopped. Cranked no start. Now I had a car with no brakes and would not run. I figured I would start on the rusty brake lines. Broken brake line was at the rear regulator and hard to access. I figured it was easier to remove the whole rear suspension. Since there was lots of surface rust on most everything back there I could clean everything up, Drop Gas Tank and service the fuel pump and tank. Once it was out I found the rear shocks were shot. task was now to replace anything bad, sand paint with POR15 and re-assemble. New shocks, bushings, new brake lines including flex lines. Repaired rusty gas line. Cleaned and repainted the rusty heat shields. Work Stopped here until 2012. Many Life Changes during this time period. Car was reassembled and moved to my current home in 2014. Now in a Garage, work continued rear to front. I have worked on just about everything on the car. Too many things to list. My 88 Reatta returned to the Road in fall of 2014, once on the road it presented more things to repair. 2015, Continue to fix or replace anything bad, got it running good. Then had some issues, a random misfire sidelined it for a couple months. I almost sold it, I was very frustrated after all the work I had in it and going over this problem 3 or 4 times to fix it. Finally did and it has been Reliable since. Attended several shows at the end of the year. 2016 Running good, Reliable and Great Driver. Attended many shows and events, I had a great time meeting people and talking about the Reatta. Notified the Original owner that I would have the car at the Rockville Car show, so she could see it again. Her family came out and She was in tears seeing it again after all these years. 2017 Nothing much was needed, drove car to Shows and events, it was my backup when my truck had issues. Very Reliable all year, Had to take it out in snow once and one of the coldest days when my truck was out of service. Drivers seat upper side split open at the seams, There is a broken wire in there. 2018 Started another year of Just enjoying the car. Car is no longer my backup for my work commute. Attended the Spring Auto Fair Reatta Rally my 3rd year, Planed other events. It was way to hot for one then the rain moved in. Have only had one good dry day in 12 weeks or so and took it to a Cars and Coffee. I now have more money in the car than it is worth, all of it was to make the car reliable, and safe. No money has been needed for the car since fall of 2015. I now have a Reliable, Unique, Fun Car to drive, take to shows and events, Cars and Coffee. I still need to fix the paint, and re-dye the carpet in the rear area. And the car will be about perfect. I have kept a line item budget on the car so I know exactly what I have in it and what has been replaced or worked on and when. The enjoyment the car brings, offsets the costs incurred making it road worthy, but this is for each person to decide if you are thinking of restoring one. Costs add up quick specially if the car needs paint. This car would be in s scrap yard if not for this the Forum full of knowledgeable helpful members and users, ROJ, The Reatta Store, Parts Vendors, and my Car background in Car repair and 12 electrical. I would guess the Original owners picked the right person to get the car. I have a 1 in 46 car. White Blue with Standard seats. Not many people can say that. This is my Reatta Story, How about posting yours!
  23. Ronnie, I think this may be a bad light sensor in the dash. I had to do mine several years ago for the same reason. Dimmer worked for Dash and CRT but nothing else was lit. I forgot what this part is called.
  24. Rockville MD Car Show October 20th 2018 http://www.rockvillemd.gov/667/Antique-Classic-Car-Show This is a Very Nice show with lots of History. I have been the only Reatta there for the last couple of years, Would be great to have more. I know there are Reatta owners in the MD, VA area that would not be far from the show. I will be there hope to see you to.
  25. Dave, When my ECM failed it would not fire all the injectors. I picked up a Noid Test Kit to confirm ECM was bad. I could spray in starting fluid and car would run. Later on I found badly clogged injectors that I am sure did not help the ECM. All were in electrical specifications but some hardy flowed. Cleaned them and worked good. Replaced them later with Bosch III injectors. If you want to borrow my Noid Kit I can mail it to you.
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