Dashmaster

Here is some info from the Mecum Page. It was a Red, Tan Top, Tan Interior, 16 way seats and CD. 100 miles shown in picture, could not find a picture showing the VIN. There are pictures you can see if your create a login on their site and look at past Auctions. Text from Mecum site. Sold for $21,500 1 of 305 produced and 1 of 205 released for sale Upon delivery, this car was placed in the private collection of Ernie Clair, owner of Clair Buick in Boston, Massachusetts Car has never been registered and has been driven 99 miles, most of which were driven during factory testing Highly original condition Loaded with factory available options Matching numbers 3.8L V-6 engine Automatic transmission Tuned port injection Original window sticker Manuals

I bought this book and agree its very good for looking at numbers of production quick reference. I does agree with the number posted on the 88 in white\blue at 114 that was also posted on the forum, but he added the seat numbers which I don't know how he got them but is interesting. White\Blue with standard seats is 46, with 16 way 68. So my car is now a 1/46 with this information. Fun talking point.

Here is the one I bought. Right now I just have it setup in the trunk and it plays thru the usb which works better than the headphone out on my mp3 player. I can't change tracks using the usb but I don't care. I wanted a wired connection for best sound performance. I do not have a Ipod and have no bluetooth devices so this was best for my setup. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NWW5KY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There was no CD player option in 88-89. Only 90 and 91. What year car do you have? If 90 and 91 and single din with GM kit will work fine. You will need the GM antenna adapter and if you want the wiring kit that will plug into the GM harness. If you have 88 or 89 its a custom ordeal. On my 88 I am using the stock radio with the amplifier gutted preamp out to small Sony amp. I have a FM modulator the plugs into the antenna connection to play my mp3 player thru a FM station.

I just checked the youtube, this was the car with lights out in the front and back. They are showing about 6 Reatta's on youtube.

Check out their youtube videos on their cars. I have seen this one several times and I think some of the rear lights are also out. from one of the videos. I does not look like this company spends any time correcting small things for video shoot like the lights and how the cars are driven in the videos, but this might give you clues on how they inspect and view their cars. I could have lights mixed up with a blue one they have which is much nicer then this one.

Not sure what year car you have you should add it to your signature. My 88 always shows e041 in history and am not able to clear it. I have checked all wiring that can affect it and verified all is working properly. Idle is most affected by the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) and EGR. I would pull them out and clean them. There are good repair articles on the Reatta Owners Journal (ROJ) web site. If you get rough idle and stall when warmed up then Oxygen Sensor is usually at fault.

Kingsley, Thank You for all you have done to help keep the cars on the roads. I have your headlight kit on my car and they have been working good since. Thank You Again!! Have fun with the grand kids, Best Wishes to you and your family. Wayne

Car has been running good but started having a vibration at stop light when warmed up, idle was good 650 rpm but it vibrated the car. I also still get a miss under load 4th gear sometimes. Since all my parts are new and verified I decided to do a little project. Pulled the intake today, now to clean everything good and replace gaskets. I think I might have had a slight vacuum leak causing the rough idle. I did the intake cleaning on the car with seafoam but intake is still very black at the port ends.

My comments on this are based on an incident where I work, a vary large non-profit association. An issue that was covered up that came to light years later and how it was handled by the association caused about a 25% to 30% loss in memberships and close to 8 million dollar loss over 3 year period. When Trust is lost which was the case above because of cover up and lack of information to members. Once Trust is gone the losses suffered will be very had to get back. I suggest that the AACA and the Museum should now be truthful and release all documentation, the sooner it is released the better it will be for members of both entities. Things can heal and move on. The longer information is held the more damage it will do. Also a suggestion for Library space, AACA needs to cost evaluate scanning in documents to save space, You may be doing some now but if not this could down size the needed space.

See pages 21 and 22 for one way to do it. Daves89 came up with this process which I used. Many others wet sand and use a polish. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/191323-what-did-you-do-to-your-reatta-today/?page=21

Bill, some contact resources I would also contact Jim Finn at reattas60@gmail.com And Marck at East Coast Reatta's we site. Pretty Rare Color for 91, not sure what color your interior is. Hope you can get it fixed up good. My car hit a deer many years ago when the original owner had it, the dealer did the work but the repainted area's clear coat did not hold up like the factory paint has.

I am only a Reatta owner because the original owner knew I worked on cars. Mine was free if I would agree not to junk it. Since it was free and knew it would be a good driver with good gas mileage. Its been a hard long road to get this one reliable and working well. But the task to get it where it is is costly, All the work it needed was done by me and the costs are for parts. I kept a detailed parts list with pricing to see where I was. I am over my budget slightly and slightly over book value. I was so frustrated over issues this summer that kept the car from the 50th anniversary show and Reatta events. You may have seen a for sale add that I removed the same day over the frustration I was having. I did fix the issue and took the car to 2 shows this fall. MD decided to change the rules on Historic Tagged cars newer than 1986, So to get the value I have in the car I have chosen to re-tag it. Just Passed MD Inspection. It is garage kept and will be more of a regular driver. I like these cars and have consider a parts car. But the cost to get some of these does not make sense. For anyone thinking of buying a low cost car and fix it up especially if its in area that undercarriage rust will be present , If you do all the work yourself you will be over the value very quickly, if you have to pay for someone to do parts of it you will be way over value. Not for the faint of heart. If you can't do the work on the car yourself you may want to consider something else. Ronnie, Being a newer member on the forums I try to pitch in the best I can like with the cradle mounts. The ROJ is a place I look to see what other have done and a valuable tool for any owners. I hope as time changes you will be able to pass the information on in some form or another. I have appreciated all the information. All the forum member here have helped me get this car working so you all have helped save this car from the junk yard. I have appreciated all the help. I will continue to assist others as I can with what I know.

Why would anyone want to install a Nylon one? The were the cause of lots of timing chain failures in the 70's and 80' and would fail in the 80 to 100K mile mark. I know I have changed at least 3 on 70's Chevy 350s. This sent lots of cars to the junk yard during that time so manufactures could sell new cars. When they failed you had to drop the oil pan to clean out all the nylon from the pan and pickup.

Regulation is built into the Alternator. if over voltage you should be getting B412 code. BCM monitors the alternator but does no regulate output. If you have not cleaned all the grounds I would do so also. Reatta owners Journal site has Tech article showing where all the grounds are located.

Ronnie the timing change might surprise you on how loose it might be, not sure which tensioner yours has but my 88 with the small tensioner was worn out and chain was quite loose for only having 107K miles on it. If you do decide to do the chain also get oil pan gasket. It will be good to drop the oil pan anyway, this will make sure you have no coolant left in the oil after the intake and chain work, and the front cover will go on much easier with pan removed since the oil pan gasket seals against the bottom of the front cover.

Are you sure the cooling system is full with no pockets of air? Is the coolant reservoir tank empty ? If it is you need to keep adding coolant until the level in the tank stabilizes. The system purges out the air and pulls in the coolant. Air pocket could be causing the high reading. I know after doing timing chain on mine and refilling the cooling system I saw very high readings on the CRT until the air was purged.

Out of 550 cars only 8 Buick's, Mine was the only Reatta Spoke to several people 2 with Reatta's for sale. and the original owner of my car came out to see it. It was her Baby, Its been 9 years since she has seen it. She was in tears and so very happy to see it again.

Here are some pictures of a very nice GT. I heard someone talking it was for sale. Very Nice car.

A couple of pictures from the Rockville MD Show. There were only 8 Buick's present at the show that had over 550 cars. Mine was the only Reatta present.First long drive since I solved the drive ability issue I was having. Had to throw in the Mack Truck picture was just beautiful.

I would check with the alignment shop you plan to use to see it they will put it on the rack and give you a printout. This way you will know what shims to put in and won't have to take it apart again if you have to make changes if your settings are off. Depending on the value you need you may have to put together different shims of different sizes.

The Tire shop I use said being off will wear the tires fast and reduce traction. I know there is not a lot of weight back there. The shop I use did my alignment and I had to add shims in the rear to correct the alignment. They know I do all my own work, I had to take it to their shop 4 times to get it set. They never charged me until completed, This allowed me to fix things to make it right. They gave me the printed specs I need for the rear adjustments once we had the front sorted. I ordered mine from Rock Auto. FSM says to align car with full tank of fuel, These shims are getting hard to find. NAPA no longer carries them, they list part numbers. I had to get 2 different sizes. They are tapered shims so depending how you install them they can change the camber in either direction. I would take it to alignment shop and get the printout then you can install the shims needed to bring it into spec. The rear does affect the whole driving setup, You can get a pull from it or affect lane changing reaction.

Last weekend finally installed the Trans cooler using the same parts and process that Ronnie used. This weekend cleaned the Intake using Ronnie"s process. Thanks Ronnie for all the great write ups!!! Hopefully my car will stay running good enough the attend the upcoming cars shows I am registered for. I did take a series of pictures that show 88 only visible features to put in the book I take to shows, I try to educate as many as I can about Reatta's. I also saw a 90 convertible 37K Miles, Red/Tan/Tan on the Mecum Auctions Chicago sell for $10K. Illinois Tag shown was PEPI 90, not sure if this is a forum members car or not.

Thank You for Serving Seth!! The E041 code will not cause a rough idle. That is one code that is very hard to eliminate from the ECM. My car has the E041 history code and have not been able to clear it and I have thoroughly checked all aspects of the circuit on mine. When it runs rough was it warmed up into closed loop? Or cold not up to temp? . The MAF and OX are the only sensors that adjust fuel mixture.You can test each by unplugging them and testing one at a time. On my car when I had bad OX sensor car would idle very rough and sometime stall. They work together so if the OX is bad the MAF can't adjust fuel properly. I would test the OX sensor if you have not already done so.

AACA Hershey show Oct 5-8th Registration Closed Big Event. Rockville Antique and Classic Car Show, October 15 ( rain date 22nd) Registration Open, Non Judged Event Kempton PA, "Free Spirit" Buick Club Chapter event, October 30th rain or shine, Registration open Riegelsville PA, November 6th, Open , no registration to show car. I am registered for the Rockville and Kempton shows, I will attend the Fall-Out show if weather looks good then. I got my car running properly after the Hershey show registration ended so I will not be attending this show. Fall is a great time for show, Come out and enjoy a show if you are in the area of any of them. http://www.rockvillemd.gov/index.aspx?NID=667 http://www.buickfreespirit.org/2016-kempton-car-show/ http://riegelsville.org/fall-rollout-car-show/