Dashmaster

Jayarbee, After trying to get my car running years ago after it sat for a long time and had mixed old gas and ethanol in it, Mine had the same symptoms as yours. You will need to get a Noid Test light Kit. This will allow you to see if the ECM is sending signals to the injectors. If not bad ECM. Mine had this issue. Then I corrected the ECM and still had issues. I had extremely clogged injectors. I created I injector cleaning station using a fuel rail and wire harness from a 4 cylinder Saturn I had laying around, Old fuel pump and used a battery to power the injectors, and ran sea foam thru them. Got them cleaned up pretty good. I could not get good spray pattern from all of them. I decided to install Bosche III injectors rated and made to work in the Reatta. Summary, Get Noid Kit, test ECM, If ECM is good then you have clogged injectors. Make sure you do have good fuel pressure at the rails.

Here is the Relay harness I ordered thru the Reatta Store https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BMN30HY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I installed this in my car and made huge difference In brightness using the Silver Star Lights. With the harness lights are fed direct battery power and not thru the light switches or the small wires. I hope this person did some research on the LED. The Truck Lights were the only ones people said had good pattern. They may end up with poorer performance over all. The Harness with the Silver Stars is the way to go for performance and cost. I do drive my car often at night. Last 2 weeks I have at least 5 hours of night driving. I hope the harness link helps.

I wonder if the pull downs used in the 80"s and maybe newer Camaro and Firebird Hatches would work? There should be lots of those around in junk yards and maybe in new form from parts vendors.

padgett, Not sure if you are talking about a Reatta or another car. Thoughts. You need to a way to verify temps. A thermal reading device might help to read host temps to see if they are inline with what the car is showing. Have you checked the Temp Sensor for Buildup that could cause errors in temp reading or any other issues with the sensor? Also the trans temp will cause temp rise at idle for the cooling system. Adding if not present a trans cooler may help.

Ken, There is a Photo Sensor in the front plastic cover the controls the panel lights. When bad it will do just what you have described. Being an 88. You can use the CRT diagnostics to test the sensor. It will be in the BCM section, Find sensor and choose override. .To replace you have to remove the panel. There is good documentation on the Reatta Owners Journal about this. it show how to make a pull up tool so you don't crack the padded dash.

Yes I use it for reference and repair information. I also see it referenced on the Reatta FB page frequently.

Both of the parts listed are REAR not Front parts. Rock Auto shows this mount as Rear Mount. So it looks like he tried to use the parts with your original top piece if that is even possible WESTAR ST2971 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info Rear

From these picture s something does not look right. The top mounts look to be to small for the strut towers holes on the car. You should not be able to see much of the lower part of the mounts when installed. Also on my car the slot in the top is oriented left to right and it aligns with one stud closest to the fender. Its does not look like these are oriented correctly. Also one of the 3 studs is not drawn up like the rest on both sides The Also the rubber in the top mounts looks old but could be just the pictures. I am not sure if strut mounts for the 91 were different than the 88 and 89 cars Ronnie or Dave may know. I think when I did the mine the Reatta Store was open and I recall different parts for 88-89 and 90-91 cars. I did all my strut replacements and I can take a picture of what it should look like from the top later today.

Welcome to the Forums. I am not 100% sure since I do not have my manual information with me. I know on 88's I think 89 is the same. All the power for headlights and tail lights are drawn from the dash light switch. This is a lot of current draw thru the switch which can cause burnt contacts in the switch. I think this is why GM added relays in 1990 and 91, to cut the current load thru the switch. I did Headlight wiring upgrade on my 88 that uses relays and direct power from battery. Made huge difference in Brightness. Lookup some of the parts vendors at the top of the forums for replacement switch. If you replace the switch with good one I would add relays for headlights and tail lights to remove the load from the switch. This will extend its usable life. I have not done the taillights on mine yet but have it planned out to do.

While tracing a E041 Cam code a couple of years ago. I found 2 sets of wire splices that are the common feeds for the Ground and Power for the CAM, ICM and Crank Sensor. I found them under the car in wire loom in oil pan area.One is the Brown wire can't remember the other color. Located this when I was tracing wires from ICM and Crank sensors. These splices are just like the ones under the seats. Not sure if this could be causing your issue but this is common between all the timing sensors. CRT, press off and warm at the same time, When ECM comes up for inputs select yes, to enter, you cane then just cycle thru them to see live data of each sensor. Reatta Owners Jorunal will have better CRT diagnositic info then I can provide from memory

I agree with Dave about no recommended service interval for the timing chain. If you had a 88 I would do them at 100K. Mine had 110 on it when I did mine. 88's have a small timing chain tensioner from factory that was revised in 89. On my car the tensioner was shot and chain had lots of slack in it. I installed the revised tensioner which has a much larger contact surface then the small one.

As far as I know there have never been any Reproduction Upholstery kits made. If you are referring to seats. Marck Barker (NCReatta) did have some seats redone by a shop several years ago. Cost was high and Marck told me the shop said it was so complex that they would not do any others. I asked a shop near me about redoing my seats. They said the problem now is that its hard to get big matched leather pieces. Their estimate if they could find the material was more than $1000 a seat. I would contact Marck Barker ( East Coast Reatta's ) (NCreatta on the forums ) and or Jim Finn. Jim"s contact info is in the Reatta Resources Link. Both have parts inventory and may have a good set of seats for you. You should post the color you are looking for. I am guessing Tan From Name here.

A Bad Oxygen Senor can cause stall when it goes into closed loop ( Warmed Up ). You can unplug it and test, Car will run on default values when unplugged.

Ronnie. You have done a wonderful job as Moderator. We have both tried to get people to write story's on our cars. I know you and I did. I just started my Reatta today. Been in the garage since late November. I know I will continue to use and post on the forums. Hope to find some time this year to get down the TN and meet you some time. The FB page is also slow. Lots of cars for sale and or people with problems. There are people there that point to the forums and ROJ for real repair information. Best wishes and Big Thank You for all you do to help us with out Reatta's !!!

Does it do this on all Up shifts or just 3rd to 4th ? Also what is the load when it does it. Pulling Hill ? or accelerating on an on ramp?

Just a guess. If it was caused by Engine Cradle Mount failure, Went over curb blowing out the tires and into a bank, see the grass in the front. Insurance Company might have looked it up to repair but since there are no Factory Engine Cradle replacement parts they would total it.

Note sure if this helps. 2 years ago I had random misfire at speed above 45. Idle was Ok. But I had gone over everything 3 times or more. All my parts were new. I was so frustrated by this I almost put the car up for sale. Here is what affected my car. The main wire harness on the firewall running left to right was hanging down about even with spark plugs. I had the OX sensor wire separated from this harness but did not help. I pulled the harness back up to where it should have been and wire tied it. My random misfires stopped. Car ran great. I know my car is running good because it averages 25 mpg in mixed driving. My car does have have a slight rough idle when warm sitting at a light. rpms vary about 50. I have not looked into this because it does not cause any issues. Might be worth a look at that harness location. It might be picking up inducted signals from plugs, wires and OX sensor.

Another Thought Do you know what the coolant temperature is while driving it before the problem ? My thought is that its running in open loop mode due to coolant leak past thermostat or no Thermostat. When you stop the car it gets warm enough to do into closed loop where the sensors come into play during the warm restart, Once its has been running again the coolant temperature falls below the sensor threshold and back into open loop. You still have a problem. I would check the Cam Sensor Magnet and I have had more then one bad new OX sensor out of the box, You can unplug the OX sensor and it will stay in open loop. If running in open loop the problem does away you will need to check all the sensors. The 3 sensors that all affect fuel and air are IAC, MAF and OX.

Barney, Here is a picture of one of my 88 Wheels after sanding before polishing when I reconditioned mine. The color on mine is a medium gray. Not Black.

Scott, Very Good write up. On the 88 and 89 best thing you can do to help these switches is remove the current draw from the Head Lights and Taillights since the power is routed thru the switch. Adding Relays will take the load off, and bonus your lights will be a lot brighter. The change to the headlight stopped me from looking for better replacements, so much brighter.

Michael, I also have an 88. While tracing a E41 I had in history. I found splices that tie the power and ground wires to the Cam, Crank and ICM. I found the by tracing the wires back from ICM and crank sensor. You have to open the loom to find them. I recall it being under the oil pan area.

Check out this link for Cradle Bushings. These Dorman parts are much heavier then the OEM Mounts which are no longer available. But are not solid mounts. http://www.reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=77:suspension&id=328:engine-cradle-sub-frame-bushing-replacement

I edited my comments and removed the only guide to one guide to look at.

DR James. The one guide you need to look at is in the Owners Manual under service intervals. This will give you a list of recommended service intervals. I have and maintain a 2004 Accord and all you need to follow is the service intervals. Honda engines stopped needing valve adjustments in the early 2000's for most engines. Not sure if Acura is the same. The owners manual will show valve adjustments if listed in the service intervals section if it needs it. If automatic trans you may need some service. My 2004 listed trans drain refill at 100K miles or every ten years. Some items are mileage only, others mileage or time whichever occurs first.

I always have a book on my Windshield that has all the production number breakdown, It has all the work I have done on it. This year I took some pictures of the Touch Screen and put it on the Windshield and got lots more comments about it. When the car is off it looks pretty plain, Fire it up and show people and they are excited and amazed it was done in 88. I always tell them them about the diagnostic features also.