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About Dashmaster

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    1988 Reatta, White/Blue
  • Birthday 01/07/1963

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  1. I got my spares from 90 GM trucks.
  2. Chris. I used the directions I found on the forum and might also be on the ROJ. This was the procedure to remove the outputs from the stock amp and wire in RCA from the pre-amp part of the factory radio module. I am running my modified stock unit to a 4 channel amp running all speakers and sub. This setup lets me run the radio as designed, I use Bluetooth FM modulator to send Music and Map audio when I want. Also this radio mod. will remove the factrory DNR limitations in the stock radio which is a bonus. I did not have good results using in the MP3 I had to the Cassette wiring, Not enough volume and no way to easily change tracks. I will try to see if I can find the Radio Mod write up.
  3. Hope you can make it. I am already registered so I will be there for sure.
  4. Hello Everyone. I am going to the Carsile Fall Event tomorrow and will be driving the Reatta, and maybe the Hershey show on Friday. The the Rockville car show on October 19th, This is a great all original show 25 year and older. So if you are in the MD, PA, West VA area come out to one of these events. You can still register for the Rockville show the day of the event. I know there are Reatta's around me I have seen 2 convertibles in my area. So come out and show them !!. Just for fun I ran a Marti report on my 97 Ford truck since I have never seen one just like it. Found out it is a 1 in 4. It will be eligible to show in a little over 2 years so I will be working it it now to make it more show ready. So I have a 1 in 46 Reatta and a 1 in 4, 97 Ford F250 Diesel Time to take the Reatta out and enjoy some shows !!! Let me know if any of you are going to Carsile or Hershey, We could try and meet up.
  5. Jayarbee, After trying to get my car running years ago after it sat for a long time and had mixed old gas and ethanol in it, Mine had the same symptoms as yours. You will need to get a Noid Test light Kit. This will allow you to see if the ECM is sending signals to the injectors. If not bad ECM. Mine had this issue. Then I corrected the ECM and still had issues. I had extremely clogged injectors. I created I injector cleaning station using a fuel rail and wire harness from a 4 cylinder Saturn I had laying around, Old fuel pump and used a battery to power the injectors, and ran sea foam thru them. Got them cleaned up pretty good. I could not get good spray pattern from all of them. I decided to install Bosche III injectors rated and made to work in the Reatta. Summary, Get Noid Kit, test ECM, If ECM is good then you have clogged injectors. Make sure you do have good fuel pressure at the rails.
  6. Here is the Relay harness I ordered thru the Reatta Store https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BMN30HY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I installed this in my car and made huge difference In brightness using the Silver Star Lights. With the harness lights are fed direct battery power and not thru the light switches or the small wires. I hope this person did some research on the LED. The Truck Lights were the only ones people said had good pattern. They may end up with poorer performance over all. The Harness with the Silver Stars is the way to go for performance and cost. I do drive my car often at night. Last 2 weeks I have at least 5 hours of night driving. I hope the harness link helps.
  7. I wonder if the pull downs used in the 80"s and maybe newer Camaro and Firebird Hatches would work? There should be lots of those around in junk yards and maybe in new form from parts vendors.
  8. padgett, Not sure if you are talking about a Reatta or another car. Thoughts. You need to a way to verify temps. A thermal reading device might help to read host temps to see if they are inline with what the car is showing. Have you checked the Temp Sensor for Buildup that could cause errors in temp reading or any other issues with the sensor? Also the trans temp will cause temp rise at idle for the cooling system. Adding if not present a trans cooler may help.
  9. Ken, There is a Photo Sensor in the front plastic cover the controls the panel lights. When bad it will do just what you have described. Being an 88. You can use the CRT diagnostics to test the sensor. It will be in the BCM section, Find sensor and choose override. .To replace you have to remove the panel. There is good documentation on the Reatta Owners Journal about this. it show how to make a pull up tool so you don't crack the padded dash.
  10. Yes I use it for reference and repair information. I also see it referenced on the Reatta FB page frequently.
  11. Both of the parts listed are REAR not Front parts. Rock Auto shows this mount as Rear Mount. So it looks like he tried to use the parts with your original top piece if that is even possible WESTAR ST2971 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info Rear
  12. From these picture s something does not look right. The top mounts look to be to small for the strut towers holes on the car. You should not be able to see much of the lower part of the mounts when installed. Also on my car the slot in the top is oriented left to right and it aligns with one stud closest to the fender. Its does not look like these are oriented correctly. Also one of the 3 studs is not drawn up like the rest on both sides The Also the rubber in the top mounts looks old but could be just the pictures. I am not sure if strut mounts for the 91 were different than the 88 and 89 cars Ronnie or Dave may know. I think when I did the mine the Reatta Store was open and I recall different parts for 88-89 and 90-91 cars. I did all my strut replacements and I can take a picture of what it should look like from the top later today.
  13. Welcome to the Forums. I am not 100% sure since I do not have my manual information with me. I know on 88's I think 89 is the same. All the power for headlights and tail lights are drawn from the dash light switch. This is a lot of current draw thru the switch which can cause burnt contacts in the switch. I think this is why GM added relays in 1990 and 91, to cut the current load thru the switch. I did Headlight wiring upgrade on my 88 that uses relays and direct power from battery. Made huge difference in Brightness. Lookup some of the parts vendors at the top of the forums for replacement switch. If you replace the switch with good one I would add relays for headlights and tail lights to remove the load from the switch. This will extend its usable life. I have not done the taillights on mine yet but have it planned out to do.
  14. While tracing a E041 Cam code a couple of years ago. I found 2 sets of wire splices that are the common feeds for the Ground and Power for the CAM, ICM and Crank Sensor. I found them under the car in wire loom in oil pan area.One is the Brown wire can't remember the other color. Located this when I was tracing wires from ICM and Crank sensors. These splices are just like the ones under the seats. Not sure if this could be causing your issue but this is common between all the timing sensors. CRT, press off and warm at the same time, When ECM comes up for inputs select yes, to enter, you cane then just cycle thru them to see live data of each sensor. Reatta Owners Jorunal will have better CRT diagnositic info then I can provide from memory
  15. I agree with Dave about no recommended service interval for the timing chain. If you had a 88 I would do them at 100K. Mine had 110 on it when I did mine. 88's have a small timing chain tensioner from factory that was revised in 89. On my car the tensioner was shot and chain had lots of slack in it. I installed the revised tensioner which has a much larger contact surface then the small one.